Blazing Saddles

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Writing this, we're just back from a day on horseback in El Valle de Los Ingenios (a valley near Trinidad where the colonial sugar plantations were once situated) and we've both got VERY sore bums indeed!

The horses led us along stoney mountain trails, over a railway line, through three rivers and up to a cascading waterfall where we cooled down in the crystal clear waters.

We both had quite different experiences so here's a version of the day from each of us.

My Day Out With Crazy Horse
By Jess

Apparently you only need to know three things to ride a horse in Cuba: right, left and stop. What they don't tell you is in fact you also need a disregard for helmets and a tight grip.

We were thrown straight into the deep end. Up and down an uneven stoney trail, slippy from an early morning shower. My horse, Cal, lost its footing several times, which was pretty scary as we were on narrow paths and there was a sheer drop down into the valley on the left hand side. I must have held my breath for much of the first half hour and it was quite possibly the most tense I have ever been in my entire life. I maybe stating the obvious, but my horse had a mind of its own and Cal didn't always choose the easiest route over the rocks. It was a LONG hour through the woods.

At the base of the valley, the paths opened up into wide flat pastures and I breathed a sigh of relief. James did a sneaky overtaking manoeuvre as he broke into a gallop. Ride on Jimmy! I was happy to be gently walking behind and finally getting a chance to admire the scenery.

However, turns out Cal liked being the leader. Not to be out done (and you can be assured certainly not due to any instructions from me), Cal promptly did the same, determined to get back in front. I held on for dear life and tried to calm myself by playing the theme tune to Black Beauty in my head. As Cal rode up beside James' horse, I realised we were fast approaching a small hedge. There was one path through it and both horses weren't going to fit. Surely Cal will slow down and fall in line behind James. Surely?

As we got close enough for me to make out the small red blossoms on the hedge, I had a sickening realisation that Cal had no intention of slowing down. If anything, he was getting faster. 'Right', 'left' and 'stop' were having absolutely no effect at this stage. I knew in that moment what was going to happen. He jumped, I yelped and the Senor behind couldn't stop laughing.

The whole traumatic white knuckle ride was redeemed by the tranquil waterfall and a swim in the cool natural waters did wonders for my stress levels (not to mention my sore bum). Unfortunately though, when my feet were in the stirrups, I was never relaxed enough to take in the views across the valley.

(Ooh and ladies - one word of advice if you plan on galloping anywhere soon. Sportsbra. Wish someone had told me.)

Saddle Sore Cowboy
By James

The day starts very early...9.30am! (Its Cuba.)

I loved the day from start to finish. I don't know where Jess was on her stressful day. Let's put it this way, while she hummed Black Beauty to keep her mind off things, I was going through the audio files in my head and picking out the best cowboy tunes...Lone Ranger, Virginia and so on. A boyhood dream was taking place.

The mountain track was dangerous and slippy. Perfect, where would a cowboy be without danger? One hour heading down the mountain; slipping and sliding, ducking under branches and bush, cuts to the arm cos my horse (let's just call him 'horse'!) likes drifting right.

At the bottom of the mountain with open valley in front, our guide hands me a stick and says with a wink, "Gasolina". As Jessica is in front of me, I think it's only fair I share the Gasolina. And we're off! First burst of speed was exhilarating. We crossed fields and came to a river 12ft wide, no problem, water up to my boots. Bank on far side steep, apply gasolina and take it like you would climbing a high wall.

We ride alongside a railway line for ten minutes and then cross it. (The boy in me now kicks in, Lone Ranger tune in my head - it's a fast one.) We're just robbed a train, need to move, gasolina, ride fast, almost fall off, posse closing in on us, panic setting in, need to settle down or I will never get a shot off, river ahead, it's the border, down bank, splash up bank and freedom! Posse turn home and the money is ours.

It is a gentle ride onto another mountain. We tied the horses beside a river under the cover of trees. Ten minute walk to the waterfall. A beautiful oasis amongst a forest. Fantastic place to spend an hour but at the back of my mind my horse was waiting!

On the return leg, we stopped at a ranch (well, a farm). Freshly cut sugar cane was squeezed through two rollers, operated by a big handle made out of engine parts. Result: two glasses of pure sweet sugar cane juice. Refreshing. Full of energy and we're off. So begins part two of a cowboy's adventure!

Of course, I can hardly walk now but it was all worth it.

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