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Published: August 29th 2017
Completely Costa Rica – August 2017 I have visited this Central American country previously, but never explored it to the extent I intend to on this adventure. I’m going to cover the country from the Caribbean to the Pacific…care to come along for the ride?
An overview: All trails lead to waterfalls, misty crater lakes or jungle-fringed, deserted beaches. Explored by horseback, foot or kayak, this country is a tropical choose-your-own-adventure land. Rainforest hikes and brisk high-altitude trails, rushing white-water rapids and world-class surfing: Costa Rica offers a dizzying suite of outdoor adventures in every shape and size – from the squeal-inducing rush of a canopy zip line (I’ve already arranged to do this!), to a sun-dazed afternoon at the beach. National parks allow visitors to glimpse life in the tropical rainforest and cloud forest, simmering volcanoes offer otherworldly vistas, and reliable surf breaks are suited to beginners and experts alike. Given the country’s diminutive size, it’s possible to plan a relatively short trip that includes it all.
And then there are the people. Costa Ricans, or Ticos as they prefer to call themselves, are proud of their little
slice of paradise, welcoming guests to sink into the easygoing rhythms of the
pura vida (pure life). The greeting, farewell, catchy motto and enduring mantra gets to the heart of Costa Rica’s appeal – it’s simple yet profound ability to let people relax and enjoy their time. With the highest quality of life in Central America, all the perfect waves, perfect sunsets and perfect beaches seem like the
pura vida indeed.
As the eco- and adventure-tourism capital of Central America, Costa Rica has a worthy place in the cubicle daydreams of travelers around the world. With world-class infrastructure, visionary sustainability initiatives and no standing army since 1948 (when the country redirected its defense funds toward education, healthcare and the environment), Costa Rica is a peaceful green jewel of the region. Taking into account that more than a fourth of the land enjoys some form of environmental protection and there’s greater biodiversity here than in the USA and Europe combined, it’s a place that earns the superlatives. Not to mention several boatloads of Americans have retired here and live very well on their social security checks.
Such wildlife abounds in Costa Rica as to seem
almost cartoonish: keel-billed toucans ogle you from treetops and scarlet macaws raucously announce their flight paths. A keen eye will discern a sloth on a branch or the eyes and snout of a caiman breaking the surface of a mangrove swamp, while alert ears will catch rustling leaves signaling a troop of white-faced capuchins or the haunting call of a howler monkey. Blue morpho butterflies flit amid orchid-festooned trees, while colorful tropical fish, sharks, rays, dolphins and whales thrive offshore – all as if in a conservationist’s dream.
An interesting fact about the country: since it’s is located so close to the equator, the sun rises and sets at roughly the same time throughout the year. Sunrise occurs at around 5:30 a.m. and sunset at 5:30 p.m. There is no Daylight Savings Time, and Costa Rica’s time zone is the equivalent to either Mountain or Central Standard Time.
I begin my new adventure journey in San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica and its largest city. It wasn’t the top destination on my list when I started planning this trip, but I’m willing to give it a chance and hopefully, I just might be
pleasantly surprised. It’s true that Chepe – as San Jose is affectionately known – doesn't make a great first impression, with its unremarkable concrete structures and honking traffic, but I think it’s well worth digging deeper to discover the city's charms.
I plan on taking a little time poking around historic neighborhoods such as Barrio Amon, where colonial mansions have been converted into contemporary art galleries, restaurants and boutique hotels. Stroll with Saturday shoppers at the farmers market, join the Sunday crowds in Parque La Sabana, or visit the museums of gold, jade, art and natural history. My activity dance card is full and I hope to begin to understand the multidimensional appeal of this cultural capital in the coming days.
Having taken a “red eye” flight from Las Vegas (with the most interesting item on the flight being that I got to sit next to Spike Lee, the movie director), I touch down in SJO at breakfast time, giving me the entire day to check into the Hotel Crowne Plaza Corobici and basically get settled in. This 4-star hotel is located in the city center and just one block from Parque La Sabana.
As my transportation to Tortuguero leaves in two days, this hotel stay is a “whistle stop” only – I’ll have another chance to explore San Jose later for more in-depth exploration. And so my latest adventure begins…..let’s get this party started!
I did get a nap in during my first day at the hotel – and had an early dinner in the El Tucan Restaurant. Grabbed a seat outdoors next to the swimming pool and as night had already fallen, the area was gently lit with orange lights reflecting off the water’s surface. Pumpkin Cream soup was first up and it was probably the best I have ever eaten anywhere. Served piping hot (the only way obviously, but rarely happens in restaurants) with the portion large enough to be an entire meal in itself. Then a chicken burger with onion rings….I was stuffed by the time I got up from the table.
Founded in 1737, San Jose today is a sprawling metropolis. Costa Rica’s capital and the largest city in the country, San Jose is considered to be among the most cosmopolitan cities in Latin America. Here you can find not only good accommodations
and hotels, but many wonderful museums, bars, restaurants, shopping centers, colorful markets and a fast-paced night life. A bustling city nestled inside a tropical paradise; San Jose sits in the center of the country in the Central Valley and is surrounded by gorgeous untouched cloud forests. Serving as a hub to the rest of the country, San Jose is the perfect place to use as a base camp to tour Costa Rica. With the Juan Santamaria International Airport just 20 minutes from downtown, there are plenty of tour bus companies based here that run buses throughout Costa Rica. Downtown San Jose is the busiest part of the city. A maze of streets and avenues, here you can find most of the city’s museums as well as many hotels and plazas. Plenty of tour companies, restaurants and hotels can also be found here, with the Coca Cola Bus Terminal sitting just north of Central Avenue.
Since the downtown area is small and is one of the most frequented parts of the city, do keep in mind that you will come across heavy traffic here with lots of noise and congestion. But don’t let this deter you, as this part
of the city is the heart of San Jose. The streets and avenues here are usually bustling with pedestrians and traffic, so the best way to explore this area is by foot. I would suggest visiting the Museum of Contemporary Art and Design, or tour the Jade Museum in the Instituto Nacional de Seguros. If you have kids, a great place to take them would be to the Simon Bolivar National Zoo on Avenue 11 or the Children’s Museum on Calle 4. To get up close and personal with the residents of this city, visit the many local mercados or markets such as the Mercado Central on Avenue Central.
Besides touring, there are also a number of language schools in the downtown area, that can help you speak Spanish fluently. Very popular and offering good value for money, you can attend intensive language classes for up to 5 hours a day, and at the same time live with a host family that will take care of your board and lodging. This is an excellent way to not only learn Spanish, but understand the Tico culture more intimately.
Time to leave this capital city behind
and head out for the tropical rainforests in the north-east section of the country. The shuttle bus arrived soon after breakfast and after 3 other hotel stops to pick up passengers, we were off on the 3-day, 2-night package tour to enjoy “rustic” living for a long weekend. Being rush hour, it took some time before we were clear of the concrete jungle, but once free of the city, we were plunged deep into the coffee and banana plantations lining both sides of the highway. They stretched for mile upon mile, as far as the eye could see….it got so monotonous, I almost fell asleep driving to the boat dock. It was almost four hours of driving before we finally arrived at the river, where we boarded a motor launch for the 1 hour cruise to the Evergreen Lodge….we were now deep in the rainforests which hugged both shores. Thankfully it was very overcast with a strong promise of rain, but the humidity was very close to 100% and stifling…hard to breathe, until the boat picked up speed and generated some cooler air. We landed at the main jetty of the lodge and were greeted by the manager, who welcomed
us with mango juice, general information about the place and gave us our chalet numbers. How cool was that, actually staying in a wooden structure with no windows (only mesh screens to keep the bugs out), no air conditioning but a ceiling fan, no television but at least an excellent Wifi signal. I was assigned chalet #33 which also had a large verandah with two wooden rocking chairs. The bathroom was certainly a delight - very large shower with excellent water pressure…..I immediately stripped off and dove in….stood there for a good 10 minutes with only the cold faucet turned up high. Then it was time for lunch in the communal dining room, just steps away from my room. Buffet-style meals are served for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day of your stay here….food is not that much to rave about, but the salads and fresh fruit are really delicious. Again just mesh screens at the windows and ceiling fans for air movement and coolness….I’ve accepted the fact I will be constantly dripping wet from the humidity here, until we return to civilization in San Jose on Sunday.
First activity for this weekend adventure was an afternoon
cruise along the river in the same motor launch which had delivered us to the lodge earlier in the day. Had the opportunity to shoot some terrific photos of the wild life in the forests, before docking close to the Caribbean beaches where the turtles lay their eggs, and this time of year is the height of turtle-egg laying season. Our guide lead us out to beach and explained the history behind this annual event….turtles hatched here 30 years ago, returning to the exact same beach to lay their own eggs when sexually mature. From here we walked into the town of Tortuguero and spent a pleasant hour exploring this small village. Tortuguero village sits between the Tortuguero River and Beach. Walking streets interconnect brightly colored houses built on stilts with small cafes, restaurants and souvenir stores – with just a single ATM in town. Most of Tortuguero's 1,700 people work in tourism: driving boats, guiding tours, owning restaurants, cabinas, lodges and bed and breakfast.
Tortuguero, which can be translated as
Land of Turtles, is a village on the Northern Caribbean coast in the Limón Province. It gave its name to the neighboring Tortuguero National
Park. The village is situated on a sand bar island, separated from the mainland by Tortuguero River and bordering the Caribbean Sea. Tortuguero is renowned for its navigable canals that run through the rainforest in the national park, and has such earned the nickname of 'Central America's Amazon'.
The last vestiges of sawmills sit idly along the main path through Tortuguero village, overgrown with ferns and flowers. In the distance, you can hear the roar of the waves where sea turtles emerge in the moonlight to lay their eggs in sandy craters near the top of the beach. On the other side of town, across the Tortuguero River, a wall of thick foliage stands 100-feet tall, impenetrable to the naked eye. Inside, Jaguars stalk Costa Rica's largest land animal, the tapir; while howler, capuchin and spider monkeys swing through the canopy, toucans snatch fruit off the trees with their colorful, elongated bills and three-toed sloths sleep the day away.
Every year, thousands visit Tortuguero to float through the canals searching for wildlife inside its national park and walk along the beach looking for sea turtles on the shores of the western Atlantic Ocean’s largest
nesting site. Leatherback, loggerhead, hawksbill and green sea turtles make up four of the world's seven species of sea turtles. All four find their way back to Tortuguero to lay their eggs on a 22-mile stretch of sandy beach. July 1 to September 30 mark the beginning of the largest migration, when green sea turtles visit nightly to crawl up the beach, dig holes and lay approximately 120 eggs in the sand before returning to the ocean. Turtle nesting tours offer visitors a chance to watch the nesting ritual at night while on turtle hatching tours, visitors watch baby sea turtles scamper toward the ocean, flippers slapping across the sand in a mad dash to the water.
Towering trees border narrow waterways forming the trails that weave through Tortuguero National Park. Boat, kayak and canoe expeditions to the national park depart at all times of the day, but those leaving at dawn have the best opportunity to see the abundance of wildlife that lives inside the national park. Float through the brackish water looking for the more than 375 different bird species and 125 different mammals living in the national park. These include common animals like caimans,
sloths, emerald basilisk lizards, tiger herons and green iguanas, as well as threatened and endangered species like great green macaws, manatees, jaguars and tapirs.
After the communal buffet dinner that evening, I was too tired to do anything but return to the chalet, take another cold shower and lie directly under the ceiling fan, until I fell asleep. I had the drapes open on opposite walls to get as much cool air blowing thru the room as possible, and once I was relatively dry, it was much more of an interesting experience being here, than I had previously expected. Around midnight the heavens opened and the rainforest deluge began. These chalets are all wooden structures, except for the tin rooftops….imagine the staccato rhythm of heavy rainfall beating against this metal….I thought a bomb had exploded nearby! This lasted until daybreak and as anyone reading this knows, there is nothing as soothing for sleep as the sound of constant rain on a roof….of course it did increase the humidity (if that was even possible at this point), however dawn broke with almost clear skies and sunshine. So far, so good. This boded well for our planned morning cruise
in a much smaller skiff, to explore the canals and backwaters off the main river. And after breakfast, off we went for a glorious 4 hour cruise, seeing lots of lizards, birds, butterflies, iguanas and even a caiman on the bank, under a palm tree….probably as curious about us as we were about him. Again, I was able to shoot some fantastic pictures before we returned after a nature walk thru the preserve, for the planned buffet lunch. This is without a doubt, one of the most fascinating eco system preserves I’ve had the opportunity to spend time in….simply beyond belief. This is the raw and natural Costa Rica – the country we see on National Geographic and yet find hard to believe it actually exists….I’m here to tell you, it does!
Had the entire afternoon free, so relaxed under the ceiling fan in my chalet and brought this blog up to date. From my perch by the window, I can hear the laughter from the nearby swimming pool, coupled with a few calls from howler monkeys….what a combination. This place is a hoot. Rain has held off for much of the day, but I fully expect
another rainfall rhythm session overnight….that works for me.
Almost right on cue around midnight the deluge returned and banged on the roof for most of the night, only clearing out just before dawn. This must be a daily event and as they measure rainfall by the feet instead of inches here, I now understand why. After a final buffet breakfast in the communal dining room, we began our return to San Jose via boat and bus shuttles, following the same route we took to get here a few days ago, and pulled up at the Crown Plaza Hotel once more, just after 3pm. It sure was good to get back to air conditioning, do a little laundry and actually be dry and comfortable once more….I can even wear makeup again, without it immediately melting down my face! I’m definitely having that marvelous pumpkin cream soup again for dinner tonight and then an early night to prepare for another full day of sightseeing tomorrow.
An early start the next morning and before beginning the long drive to Arenal, the tourists onboard the bus were given a brief overview drive of the
city including the many historical and government buildings. The early morning city’s rush hour traffic made this somewhat difficult but after an hour of sightseeing, the bus finally left San Jose in the rear-view mirror. It’s a fairly long drive north to the next overnight destination, but two hours later we arrived in the town of Sarchi for a bathroom break and a chance to stretch legs. Some of the country’s largest coffee and sugarcane plantations line the road enroute to Sarchi, which is known as the “
cradle of Costa Rican handicrafts.” Both international tourists and locals alike visit Sarchi for its more than 200 stores and small family-operated woodworking and leather workshops. It is a perfect
Central Valley day tour to combine with the Poas Volcano, a
coffee tour, or the Juan Castro Blanco National Park.
Located on the slopes of Costa Rica’s Central Mountain Range at the eastern edge of the Central Valley, the quaint country town of Sarchi is about 30 miles from the capital. As Costa Rica’s most well-known crafts center,
the town is famous for its colorfully painted oxcarts and oxen yokes – national symbols of Costa Rican folklore and traditions
. The tradition of painting and decorating oxcarts started in the early 20
th century. Back in the day, wooden carts pulled by a pair of oxen were the main mode of transportation in the mountainous country, especially to transport coffee beans to markets. Originally each region of Costa Rica had its own particular oxcart design, which identified a driver’s origin by the painted patterns on his cart’s wheels. Today,
oxcarts still play a principal role in parades and religious celebrations. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored Costa Rica’s vibrantly painted oxcarts in 2005 for their contribution to the heritage of humanity. You can see the
“World’s Largest Oxcart” – built in 2006 - to get the town’s name into The Guinness Book of World Records - in the Central Park in front of the main church. Travelers come to Sarchi to purchase elegantly crafted wood furniture and souvenirs made from tropical hardwoods, leather, textiles, natural papers, and ceramics.
By 4pm the long drive finally came to an end, arriving at the lobby entrance to the Arenal Springs Resort and Spa. Two nights will be spent here, giving me a
chance to explore this new eco-system and diversity, just a little south of the Nicaraguan border. The resort property is located approximately five miles outside the town of La Fortuna and I would describe it as a stunning 5-star resort, with superb accommodations in the free-standing chalet-style of construction, laid out like a small village. I was assigned room 603 – quite a hike from the reception/lobby area, but golf carts were available for transportation when necessary. The a/c was chilly, the ceiling fan was on high and with an excellent in-room Wifi signal, well for sure I was a happy camper. King-size bed (very, very comfortable for a pleasant change) – this bodes well for a marvelous night’s sleep.
Dinner was at a local restaurant in town – where do I start to describe this culinary disaster? Inspira is located on the main park square and was reputed to be one of the better restaurants available – god if this is the case, I can only imagine how bad the others must be! First the appetizer was three round discs resembling hockey pucks, deep fried, bone dry and I think they contained
white fish, but I wouldn’t bet the house on it - tasteless. I had selected the beef loin as an entrée….big mistake….what arrived on my plate was a slab of shoe leather and about as delicious – strike two. Can it get any worse you ask? Of course, it can. I ordered a glass of white wine. This liquid was on the verge of “turning” which in layman’s terms, means it was one step away from becoming vinegar or paint thinner – tossup which one will win overall. It was gruesome and that’s being generous. To round out the evening’s meal was dessert. A half piece of pineapple studded with cloves, coated in honey and accompanied by a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream…..obviously the ice cream was the highlight of the entire evening! What a total waste of time and money. I was more than happy to blow that joint and head back to the hotel.
Like fireworks at Disneyland, visitors used to flock to Arenal in hopes of seeing the nightly display of glowing red lava flowing from the near perfect cone of the mighty volcano.
read morecloseToday, the volcano's slow eruption subsided, but the list
of activities continues to grow including hikes along the 1968 lava flow, wakeboarding on Lake Arenal and whitewater rafting on three different rivers. Meanwhile the volcano's rage still bubbles underneath the surface heating the largest collection of hot springs in the country. On clear days, a tendril of smoke still curls out of Arenal's caldera like the wick of an extinguished candle. It is one of the most active volcanoes of Central America, and since a major eruption in 1968, it has been in near-continuous activity building a lava dome and displaying mild explosive activity from the summit crater. The earliest known eruptions of Arenal took place about 7000 years ago, and been characterized by periodic major explosive eruptions at several-hundred-year intervals and periods of lava effusion that armor the cone.
Bright and early the next day, I grabbed a table out on the verandah of the hotel’s restaurant to enjoy breakfast with a marvelous view of the Arenal Volcano right in front of me. As I was drinking my first cup of coffee, the wisps of mist cleared from the summit and I got some dynamite photos of this green giant. Then it was time to
climb aboard the shuttle bus for yet another 2-hour drive to reach the Rio Frio (Cold River) and spend the morning hours on a Cano Negro Boat Tour. The Cano Negro Wildlife refuge encompasses an area of about 10,000 hectares near the border with Nicaragua. On this nature boat tour, it’s a totally relaxing ride in a covered motorboat along Rio Frio to appreciate the beautiful nature and wildlife of this unique area of Costa Rica. This is considered one of the richest areas in biological diversity in Costa Rica and the world!
The refuge is one of the few places in the country where you can catch a glimpse of the exotic Jabiru Stork, the tallest flying bird found in Central and South America. This is a must-do tour for avid birdwatchers and who doesn’t love to spot sloths, howler monkeys, and caimans (like mini-crocodiles) that inhabit this lush area? The Rio Frio river is teeming with life. Also found along the edge of this nature reserve are Spider, Capuchin, and howler monkeys, crocodiles, jaguars, cougars, tayras, ocelots, tapirs, white-tailed deer, Jesus-Christ lizards, black river turtles, and enormous orange iguanas.
It was all simply delightful but
the highlight of the entire journey was towards the end, when a troop of white-faced Capuchin monkeys was spotted in a nearby canopy. To attract their attention, our naturalist guide imitated the alarm sound used by this species. Evidently this did not sit well with the alpha male – next thing I knew, this seriously pissed off primate literally raced thru the trees until he was eyeball-to-eyeball with the boat’s passengers – probably not more than 3’ away at the most! He was grabbing the tree branch and shaking it violently while barring his teeth in anger. This little dude wouldn’t stand 2’ tall on his best day and weighed in at maybe 10lbs dripping wet, however in his mind, he was an entire squad of fully armed US Marines with a couple of pit bulls thrown in for good measure. Talk about delusions of grandeur – he was preparing to kick ass and take names – no doubt he would beat up on the 30 tourists, plus the naturalist guide and the boat driver, not to mention tear apart the pontoon boat for additional exercise! What a hoot – all I could was laugh. If I was a betting
woman, my money would be on the monkey every time…..too funny. I got a great picture of him full face on – now if that isn’t a visage which could kick your ass, I don’t know what is…..LOL. Capuchins are definitely the most aggressive of all monkey species, and this miniature warrior is probably in the running to be their poster boy. He would definitely get my vote for that position. When we returned to the jetty, the buffet lunch we enjoyed at the nearby restaurant was something of a letdown after such an interesting and entertaining morning. All too soon it was time to return to the hotel and two hours later, we were back at the Arenal Springs Resort for the last night in the area.
Another early morning call the next day, which began with breakfast at 6:30 and back on the tour bus an hour later. Bidding farewell to this delightful resort, we rolled down the highway a short distance until reaching the Las Coladas trail located within the Arenal National Park, for a brisk 2-mile walking tour of the area. It was SOOOOO hot and humid, I managed to last 45 minutes
before my left foot was screaming for mercy and refused to go any further. I limped back to the bus and relaxed in the air-conditioned interior until the remaining passengers returned. From here it was another couple of hours before a lunch stop in a typical quaint Costa Rican town by the name of Tilaran. Mary’s Restaurant beckoned me in and I had a really good spicy brown rice with shrimp, French fries and a salad lunch platter for a measly $7.00 – the portion size was big enough for a dinner, so I won’t be eating again today, that’s for sure.
Tonight’s hotel stay is in Santa Elena at the El Establo Hotel, which is built up against a mountain side. Interesting construction with all public areas (reception, restaurants, pool, gym etc.) on the ground level and the rooms spread up the mountain in blocks – my room was in the 700 building, quite a long way from the main gate. I have to call down to reception to get their shuttle bus when I want to leave my room….this should be a kick. The room is beyond belief. It faces outwards towards the cloud forest
with vistas that stretch for miles into the distance with no buildings to block the incredible views. The bed directly faces the floor-to-ceiling glass wall which has a door to the outside. The bathroom and closets are located behind the bed, with a wall separating them. Even has rocking chairs in the room to sit and watch the world pass by. Excellent television reception but no Wifi in the rooms, only available down in the reception and restaurant areas. Considering what an empty wilderness I’m currently in, I should sleep like the dead tonight, but I have no doubt the howler monkeys will be more than happy to act as my alarm clock at zero dark thirty…..oh joy, NOT.
The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is where some of the best-kept cloud forest in all of Costa Rica can be found. It is an actual cloud forest, not a rain forest, due to its elevation of 4,724’. 400 species of birds are found here, including close to 30 species of hummingbirds. More than 100 species of mammals live in the park, including howler and capuchin monkeys, all five species of cats, deer, tapir and sloths. A total of
1,200 species of amphibians and reptiles live in the reserve, including venomous and non-venomous snakes, frogs and toads. The fabled Golden toad was discovered here but hasn't been seen since 1988, so probably extinct by now. Along with the mega-diversity of wildlife, there are 2,500 species of plants, 420 of which are orchids. Don't forget the tens of thousands of insects and 5,000 species of moths found inside the reserve. All eight distinct life zones encompass 25,730 acres of protected land from high atop the continental divide. The unbelievable biodiversity found in Monteverde has given it international acclaim as one of the most exceptional refuges in the entire world.
A gentle mist settles over the canopy in the grey dawn light when entering this incredible, mystical cloud forest. A thin sheen of dew collects on the leaves and the moss dripping down to the forest floor. This is the green planet. Shades of emerald and harlequin, fern and mantis, gripping ancient, gnarled tree trunks ascending toward the firmament, shaded by Caribbean clouds carried across the continental divide. In the canopies, blooming orchids, bromeliads and moss climb over each other in an eternal struggle for light; homes for
howler monkeys, sloths, emerald toucanets and resplendent quetzals.
The howlers didn’t disappoint but I REALLY wasn’t ready for a 4:15am wakeup call but that is what I got. Dawn broke shortly thereafter and another glorious day in paradise began. It had rained heavily overnight (this is something new? I think not) and of course everything outside the room was dripping wet, accompanied by stifling humidity, something else that’s nothing new on this trip. Breakfast was the usual boring and pretty tasteless buffet items, but the fresh fruit is always good.
Today marks a highlight of my trip – I’m going ziplining thru the canopy of this magnificent cloud forest. The ziplining company’s shuttle picked me up at 7:30am for the short trip to the where the adventure would begin. After storing my purse in a locker, I’m fitted out for the requisite harness gear – by the time all this was wrapped and strapped around me, I felt like a lamb being lead to slaughter….not to mention an additional 8lbs of cloth and metal weight had been added to my frame. Thankfully there was heavy overcast but as always, the humidity was way, way
up there and within seconds of donning the plastic helmet, sweat was pouring down my face and back. And so it starts – first a strenuous 10 minute hike to the first training platform where the guides demonstrate the correct way to sit in the harness, and how to control your speed and staying face forwards instead of spinning like a top while whizzing thru the air, high about the ground. Then it was time for me to throw myself into the void and simply go for it!
Selvatura is truly an outstanding canopy tour with one of the longest cables in the country, and is also the only one which is deeply immersed in virgin forest. The tour consists of 15 cables and 18 viewing platforms, traversing over two miles of forest and combining the thrill of the zip line, with a unique perspective of the tree-top canopy. The first couple of runs were very short, obviously designed to get “newbies” acclimated to this adrenaline-inducing sport. But as I moved thru the obstacle course from platform to platform, the runs got longer with the last one being about a mile in length. The entire experience covers
2 miles in total, making it the longest in the country. On a couple, I flew with one of the guides in tandem (for safety reasons, due to the length of the run), but the rest I flew solo, arms out stretched imitating a turkey vulture in flight and hollering at the top of the voice – I had the time of my tiny life! What a rush! We were at least 100’ or more from the forest floor, and watching the multiple greens of the canopy pass below my ass, is a memory to last forever. On the last long run, we were traveling down the cable so fast, the wind almost tore the helmet from my head, as I was lying back in my harness almost horizontally, to get the full effect of “free fall”. For the real adrenaline junkies (yes, you know who you are), the tour includes an optional Tarzan Swing, using a high security, full body length canvas and rope swing that launches the daredevil head first, horizontally into the void for the ultimate heart-stopping adventure. No, yours truly did not even consider doing this….I do know my limitations.
Another fun experience
was when I was flying solo on the second longest run, and I came to a dead stop more than 25’ from the platform. There I was, hanging in space enjoying the 360-degree views, totally helpless with hundreds of feet of nothing but air between my ass and terra firma. Nothing I could do but relax, wave my arms and legs and enjoy myself until the guide jumped on the cable and rappelled over to where I was hanging. He just wrapped his legs around mine and hauled me like a sack of potatoes back to the platform….I just laughed….it was a hoot! It’s certainly a blast to fly like an eagle over one of the most stunning landscapes you can imagine. Anyone reading this who has ever contemplated ziplining – DO IT – it’s something you will live to tell your grandkids or even just your next-door neighbors.
By the time I completed the entire course, I was dripping wet down to my undies, I must have dropped 5lbs in weight I was sweating that much. It felt so good to get that harness off and remove the helmet….I resembled a drowned rat! But I wouldn’t
have missed this incredible experience for the world. Returning to the company shuttle bus, next stop was Don Juan’s Coffee Plantation where lunch was served in a communal dining room but before any food, I drank 3 large glasses of pineapple juice and 3 of ice water, I was that dehydrated. Relaxed here for a couple of hours and after tasting their dark roast coffee after lunch, I purchased a one kilo (2.2lbs) bag of their home-grown brand to take back home.
My time in Santa Elena/Monteverde ended the next morning when I boarded yet another tour bus and made the 4-hour drive to the northwestern province of Guanacaste, on the Pacific coast. By 4pm I was checking into the five-star hotel of Tamarindo Diria Beach and Golf Resort, and am now happily settled into a lovely room with a verandah overlooking the outdoor pool. Kind of a weird setup here – their restaurant and bar is across the street, located on the actual beach front along with the more desirable and expensive suites, while most of the rooms are on the opposite side around the four swimming pools. Too tired to explore this new property –
that can wait until tomorrow morning.
With sun-splashed beaches and great Pacific surf, the province of Guanacaste teems with visitors from around the globe. The region's dry tropical climate encompasses a varied landscape. Popular white-sand beaches line the coast, and to the east, the Guanacaste Mountain Range feature fascinating national parks and caldera volcanoes. A region submerged in culture, the name Guanacaste is derived from the indigenous ‘quahnacaztlan’, a native word for the Guanacaste tree, native to the region and the national tree of Costa Rica. The culture of Guanacaste consists of various symbolic elements taken from a long history. The cultural heritage originates from the first indigenous groups that populated the area around 10,000 years ago. The first humans who entered Costa Rica thousands of years before Christopher Columbus, arrived on the peninsula of Nicoya. During the colonial ages, Guanacaste was not a part of Costa Rica. The inhabitants of this region decided that they did not want to belong to Nicaragua but to Costa Rica, and they announced their annexation on July 25, 1824.
After a wonderfully relaxing morning spent around the hotel, it was time for another adventure….this time sailing on
a catamaran on the Pacific Ocean, a few miles offshore. The Panache Sailing Tour is conducted on a 45’ long and 29’ wide, dual hulled catamaran equipped to the max. The boat carries a maximum of probably 40 passengers plus the captain and a 3-man crew. When I arrived at Flamingo Marina along with a small group of other guests from the hotel, we had to leave our shoes behind as it’s bare feet only onboard. The catamaran is moored about 500’ out in the marina and a small dinghy is used for beach to boat access. Oh joy, here was I in long jeans and having to wade out to the dinghy – water up to my knees, but at least it will dry during the next few hours out on the ocean. Once everyone was seated, we cast off and began making our way out to the open sea. It was a glorious day – hot sunshine but as always, rain clouds were gathering on the far horizon. We navigated for about five miles offshore giving access to some of the most beautiful isolated beaches and snorkel locations available in this part of Costa Rica. What an incredible
place to be….sitting in the sail shade, sipping an icy Mojito and wondering what the poor folks back on land were doing! For the next hour or so, we cruised past uninhabited tiny islands, results of volcanic activity over the millennia. We watched as dark grey storm clouds swept off the land right over our heads, spilling a few raindrops and then moving west at a fast pace.
Anchoring in a tranquil bay it was time for snorkeling and kayaking, but after 4 large Mojitos I was staying put in a delightful alcoholic haze, watching the crewman/chef prepare a delicious lunch of chicken and mahi mahi wraps, chips and a variety of dips such as mashed refried black beans, hummus and guacamole, and of course a large platter of pineapple, mango and watermelon….fantastic food and the crew had a great playlist of Latin music to keep the party atmosphere in top form. This was an open bar boat and the booze was flowing as if Prohibition was about to make a grand come back. I should know, I downed at least 6 of those rum-based concoctions and sweated most of it out over the afternoon’s sailing.
With everyone back on board waterlogged, sunburnt but smiling, we raised anchor and started cruising slowly back…..suddenly the captain sounded a warning and a school of dolphins appeared alongside us and a large male leapt into the air….closely followed by a humpback whale making his presence known to us. Can it get any better than this you ask? You bet your bippy it can – the sun was setting and dropping slowly into its nightly watery grave, casting a golden path across the waves as if pointing to its imminent demise. The heavens were darkening as dusk approached, and as the giant orange orb slipped below the horizon, Mother Nature began painting the sunset skies from her infinite palette, with streaks of purple, pink, gold and orange across the heavens. The ocean turned from dark blue to a silvery hue reflecting these sunset skies….it was simply breathtaking and we all sat there memorized as it took place right in front of our eyes. Cameras were clicking constantly – each minute of this nightly ritual recorded for prosperity and fabulous memories. This is what life on this planet is all about…..seeing nature at its magnificence. Back at the mooring,
we will able to disembark directly at the jetty as it was now high tide….but I still got wet, this time only halfway up my lower legs. By this time it was almost full dark, with just touches of gold and pink remaining way out on the western horizon and we were all totally exhausted after such an incredible afternoon. Getting into my hotel room, all I could think of was face-planting into the pillow and sleeping for a solid 10+ hours…..stick a fork in me, I was done for sure! LOL
My time in Costa Rica is slowly ending, but one more 3-day stop to enjoy before I return to San Jose and my flights back stateside. The following morning on yet another shuttle bus, I made another 4-hour drive to the Central Pacific region and the town of Jaco, where it’s not unusual to see iguanas and white-faced monkeys frolicking on the beach. Located in this area is the Carara National Park, which was established on April 27, 1978 as a biological reserve, but its growing popularity after 1990 forced the government to upgrade its category to national park status in November 1998. Flocks of
scarlet macaws swarm the palm trees in search of fruit inside the park, a crucial sanctuary for wildlife in the increasingly developed area around Jaco. The 13,000-acre park encompasses a transitional forest of both dry and tropical rainforest.
By 4pm, I checked into the Punta Leona Hotel which is located on its own private stretch of beach, just before getting into Jaco. Its proximity to San Jose makes it a very popular place to be. However, it must be its private white sand beach that attracts most people. Furthermore, this hotel also has the advantage of being only 45 minutes away from San Jose airport and the capital. Plus, it’s very close to the best surfing beaches in the country.
Punta Leona is hidden in the middle of one of the last transitional forests of the country. It is in the zone just between the rainforests and the dry forests of Guanacaste. Those who can appreciate the beauty of nature and the wonderful flora and fauna of Costa Rica and its amazing biological diversity come here. A perfect blend of elegant sophistication within the natural beauty and lush vegetation. All overlooking the deep blue
ocean; this is amongst the best hotels in the area.
The Hotel Punta Leona has a lot more to offer than a mesmerizing forest and a stunning pristine white beach, indeed there are lots to do and see, much to explore and visit while in this fantastic area. Amongst the favorite activities, you will find sports fishing, playing golf, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, swimming and of course sunbathing. The hotel itself counts three pools, shops, basketball and volleyball courts. Along with a lighted tennis court, children´s play area, an amphitheater and a conference center. For excursions, you have trips to the Manuel Antonio National Park and Carara National Park. Consider a trip to the city of Puntarenas or into Jaco, zip line canopy tours, waterfalls, and more. This is without a doubt the best location for peace and relaxation, as well as for exploring this magical region.
The hotel offers rooms which are grouped by Central American country names – I’m in #904 in Panama, set within the tropical rain forest, and just a few minutes away from the beach and from the center of the hotel, thanks to the hotel's internal shuttle buses.
The standard rooms have two double beds, air-conditioning, a bathroom with large shower and hot water, cable TV, telephone, mini-fridge and safety box. The Wifi is the best I’ve had while in the country, and the room actually comes with its own router for a speedy and very stable connection.
This enchanting and secluded resort seems to come from a different world with its private beach, its incredible views, the elegant style and comfort of the accommodations set naturally within a rare rainforest. Who would have thought this possible yet, Hotel Punta Leona has done it. A masterpiece that seems to blend in its wonderful surrounding, close to the amenities of Jaco Beach and to the best surf beaches in the country. A climate to die for and the best food of the region, thanks to the 3 restaurants and the 2 snack bars; each of these restaurants has its own unique atmosphere to suit any mood, whether casual, romantic or adventurous. This is truly a nature lover’s paradise where you can immerse yourself in total bliss…..that’s exactly what I plan to do for the next couple of days.
A great night’s sleep despite
another deluge around midnight, but I’ve gotten so used to this roof pounding rhythm that it no longer really disturbs my rest. Throwing open the drapes around 7am, I look out on a sea of green, gold and red foliage in all directions, everything dripping wet – once I’m back in my bone-dry Nevada desert paradise, I’m really going to miss this. Housekeeping came early, so grabbing the umbrella from the closet, I made my way down to the closest restaurant for the standard buffet breakfast. As I was approaching the open-air eating hut, a fairly large iguana came out of the grass to greet me. After flicking his tongue in my direction (I’m taking that gesture as a hello wave), he disappeared back in the dense undergrowth. He’s probably checked into a neighboring bungalow. The restaurant strongly resembles a wooden tree house with small eating areas in all directions, with ceiling fans to keep the stifling humid air moving. Entirely surrounded by thick jungle, I half expected Tarzan to come swinging in thru the trees for another cup of java. Taking a table in the back to be as far away from the busy entrance as possible, I spent
a very pleasant hour munching on plantains, eggs and spicy rice, before returning to my room to get some writing done and simply kick back and relax for a few hours. The sun had been out when I left for breakfast, but a gentle rain was falling by the time I left, and of course the heat/humid was choking….what else is new? Listening to the rain hit the large palm leaves along the pathway, was like walking thru a musical score, which corresponded perfectly with the tap-tap of the raindrops on my umbrella….geez, I’m waxing lyrical today…..LOL See what too much water does to my brain!
Manuel Antonio National Park, under the canopies of Costa Rica's most visited national park, which wriggles with playful capuchin monkeys leaping between trees and scurrying down branches. I just bet a close relative of miniature monkey Rambo is hanging out around here. Momma monkeys lag behind carrying newborns on their backs, while off in the distance the sound of an agitated howler monkey booms through the forest. It's just another day in Manuel Antonio National Park, home to more than 100 mammal species and Costa Rica's last refuge for the endangered
titi monkeys.
read moreclose The Pacific tides have battered the park's coasts into an extraordinary display of tropical islands, eroded cliffs, errant coves and white-sandy beaches, but to get to them requires a crossing through the jungle. The park's four trails weave through 1,700 acres of primary and secondary rainforests, past marshy woodlands and mangrove swamps to fall away before Pacific coast vistas. Walking along the flat, wide main trail into the park, very possible to encounter two and three-toed sloths lounging in cecropia trees, iguanas recharging in the sunlight, a whole rainbow of tropical birds like the fiery-billed toucan and the occasional palm-pit viper curled in the tree branches (but don't worry they sleep during the day). Visitors can hire a naturalist guide near the park's entrance for around $20 per person, a great way to encounter more of the park's fauna and immerse yourself in the park's biology and history. Reaching the end of the half-mile main trail, is an idyllic cove sheltering the white sands of Manuel Antonio Beach. Shady coastal almond trees reach out toward the surf while visitors swim in the crystal blue waters and hike the forest trails snaking along the coast
to panoramic pacific views along Cathedral point. Is this a great trip or what?
Last full day in Costa Rica and it’s a short ride back into the capital and another night’s stay at the Crown Plaza downtown San Jose. I feel as though I have been in a revolving door at this property – this makes the 3
rd stay in 3 weeks. My shuttle ride to the airport departs at 5am tomorrow and I will be walking into my house by midafternoon….so ends my latest journey…..stay tuned for the next one, coming up soon……cheers
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Camille Zeno
non-member comment
Looks Amazing
Oh my goodness, looks like this was one of your top trips. Plus, I personally love sloths! Beautiful scenery and loved that first "cabin" you stayed in. Just grand!!!