Surfing at Sunset

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As each wave rolls in, another chance to feel the rush comes. Study the form, the speed, the direction. As the paddling begins, adreniline kicks in and paddling harder is the only option. You can feel when you have caught it, the wave seems to grab the board along for the ride. Standing and gaining control. Feel out the movement. Flying along the length of the wave, riding it in. The only thing to... Read Full Entry

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