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Published: March 12th 2007
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Olie's Place
Super peaceful and unique. It was to be my 2nd home in Mal Pais. It’s time to wrap up the Costa Rica entries, and move onto Argentina.
I had made previous arrangements to stay at the Tranquilo Backpackers hostel once the camp had ended. My budget was “tranquilo” at $10USD per night; however, my mind was filled with skepticism. After checking it out and talking with some locals, I felt uneasy by the amount of people traffic and partying. Physically, I believe I would’ve been safe; however, I cannot say the same for the slew of new techy toys that was in my possession.
Luckily, Annie, my surf instructor overheard my predicament and offered to take me to speak to her landlord. I was surprised to see that this place, with no formal name, was surrounded by a black rod-iron fence with an enormous swinging gate. Few places in the area had such all-encompassing barricades. Male pit bull dogs are the most common form of personal security systems in the area, but nothing came charging at me as I passed through the gate.
Oliver’s, aka Olie, property consisted of elaborate residential complex. There was a block of 6 rooms, kitchen, common area, enclosed bathroom, outside shower and toilets. Olie’s space was
Front of Olie's
Hammocks. My favorite type of furniture. on the upper level, and his large, personal kitchen was situated behind more iron bars. Additionally, his property stretched up into the mountain where he tapped all of his water from the fresh springs.
I know that if it had not been for Annie, I probably would not have been able to stay there. Olie was not a man for strangers. The 4 people who lived at his place had been there for weeks, if not months. His place was not a hostel. It was quiet, secluded, and secure. Olie had a very intimidating presence, but he spoke in a “pura vida” manner and tone. After I explained my story, he agreed to let me stay for $14 USD per night. Deal!
A few days later, I had a taxi take me to Olie’s with all of my stuff. We parked outside the gate, and before he unloaded my bags, the young driver eye-balled me suspiciously as he asked who I was and how did I know Olie? His mini interrogation caught me off-guard; however, I managed to explain to him that everything already had been settled with Olie. I then understood why the man did not need
The man himself
A tough guy and his bird. a pit bull.
I did not surf after camp. My body needed a break. I spent the rest of my days in Mal Pais exploring the town or just chilling out in the unforgiving heat of the day. I went to the town of Cobano twice. It’s about a 30-45 minute drive from Mal Pais, and it was the only place with an ATM. The cheapest and fastest way to get there was to hitchhike. As Annie and I stood on the side of the molasses-covered road in the baking sun, I had to be strongly convinced that hitchhiking in rural Central America was the best option for traveling to an ATM.
“You can either worry about it and something will happen, OR you can worry about it and nothing will happen. It is your choice.”
Her words from a previous conversation ping-ponged around my head. I scrunched my face, closed my eyes, and muttered, “Alright fine, let’s go” as I stuck my thumb out. The trick was to flag down foreigners in the recently-rented mini SUVs with air conditioning, not exactly Jack Kerouac style, but we made it to and fro safely in the company of
kitchen at Olie's
you get the picture. interesting strangers.
With the end of my trip in sight, I realized that I had I gained new friends, new confidences in myself, new understandings, and of course…new injuries. What would a trip abroad be for me without lost luggage or funky illness/injuries? I did see a doctor the day before I left the country. The existence of the benevolent British Doc Mel was not common knowledge as echoed in the response from my friend Benjamin, “wait a minute…you’re going to a doctor? There’s a doctor here?!” I presumed that I had some sort of infection given that my legs and feet appeared absolutely disastrous and swollen.
“My God! What happened to youuu?! No, don’t get up. Please stay seated” was the lightly-accented greeting I received from Doc Mel.
At that moment of introduction, the diner scene from the movie “Tommy Boy” darted across my mind. Chris Farley had just been jacked in the face by a 2x4 by his friend (David Spade). Seated in the diner, Spade reassures Farley that his face looked “ship shape” fine. Moments later the waitress looks up from her pad and exclaims, “Jesus, what happened to your face?!” Needless to say
chill out pups
Even a pit bull puppy can relax in the pura vida spirit. Rey (meaning King) and Benjamin. Rey was a security system in training, who LOVED to pee on the kitchen floor. His owner lived across the hall from me. that I felt like Chris Farley and guess who Doc Mel was?
“B-E-A-UTIFUL pleasssse do not tell me I have some sort of jungle disease or that something has decided to lay eggs in me,” I frantically thought to myself. After a 45-minute game of let’s rule this and that out, she diagnosed me with 2nd degree trauma in my lower limbs, and gave me a heavy dose of precautionary antibiotics. Are you kidding me? Who in the hell gets lower limb trauma?! She ordered me to keep my feet elevated; however, that prescription didn’t exactly fit with my immediate schedule, which included, at minimum, repacking and roughly 20 hours of traveling the following morning.
It was just before midnight when I finally kicked up my feet in the hammock outside my room, and soaked up the absolute silence. I could hear the waves in the distance launch themselves onto the shore. I realized that this was my last night of silence and crashing waves as I anticipated my arrival into big, busy Buenos Aires.
Some tips for travelers going to Mal Pais: Playa Carmen or Santa Teresa:
**US dollars are widely accepted, but remember
Rock Star
Not only a great surf instructor, Annie also is an amazing singer/songwriter. Pictured here at the Artesian Cafe. to get small bills before you come. Credit cards were hardly accepted. Relying on Colones and USD is your best bet.
**The ATM in Mal Pais was out of commission, so the closet bank and ATM is in Cobano. Also, the post office is in Cobano.
**There are plenty of internet cafes in Playa Carmen/Santa Teresa and one place with WiFi. The entire airport at SJO has WiFi access.
**Nature Air and Sansa are the (2) airlines, which fly from San Jose (SJO) to Tambor (TMU). Both airlines are within walking distance of SJO airport once you clear customs. The cost for roundtrip tickets is between $125-$140USD plus tax.
* Be sure to check the weight restrictions for these airlines. You will be slapped with a fee (cash only) in both San Jose and at TMU.
* There is a $1USD (cash only) Tambor airport tax, which will be collected once you’ve arrived. You will be charged another $1USD for the return flight to SJO.
**While I did not personally travel via bus from SJO to Mal Pais, I know it can be done. I believe the ride is approx. 8 hours. You can
Infinite
My roomie Rebecca and I took a trip up to the hotel called Vista de las Olas (view of the waves) check out Montezuma Expeditions for shuttles.
**People did have trouble traveling via the ferries because there was a strike. This caused the main ferry to close. Just be aware of possible strikes.
**There is a $26 USD departure tax at the SJO airport to be paid by all foreigners. This tax may be paid by credit/debit card. Be sure to keep your receipt for check-in.
**Bring mosquito repellent, drink bottled water.
**Remember the threat that red tide can have on your surf spots, AND your ability to eat yummy, fresh seafood.
**Do not walk on the beach at night. You will most likely be robbed. That is a fact.
**If you go to the beach during the day, bring ONLY a towel, sun block, and sandals. Bury your sandals under the sand because they could get stolen.
*Sun block is a lil' expensive there. Make sure you have enough for your trip.
**Use caution when having your clothes laundered. You may not get them all back.
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The Momma
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Beautiful!
Pookiecita - the pictures and your writing make me feel as though I was there. I love you, miss you and admire your spirit! Love The Momma