Belize

---

The first introduction to Belize was prior to the border crossing. After exchanging money I realise that it has been a long time since seeing the Queen on a banknote; it's good to see old 'Liz again! This leads neatly into some brief history of the country. I had noted that many maps in Guatemala still show Belize as part of Guatemala. This goes back to 1859 when Britain and Guatemala signed a treaty that gave Britain rights to the land provided that the British built a road from Guatemala to the Caribbean coast. The treaty still stands, but the road was never built; so Guatemala to this day has never accepted Belize as a separate territory. Eventually, independence was formed on 21st September 1981 when what was formerly British Honduras became what we know today as Belize. All road sisgns are in English, which is also the first language of the country.

Upon crossing the border, the increase in wealth is noticable but nothing dramatic. The place seems more orderly and well kept; maintained lawns are typical although the difference between the rich and poor is again evident as shown through the odd gated community. Perhaps the best - if quirky - indicator, is that locals use washing lines rather than any old fence in Guatemala.

Belize City is like arriving into a ghost town. Admitedly it is Sunday so footfall is almost non existent, save for those encouraging us to purchase water taxi tickets to the islands. However, the ´City´is more like a town with buildings on a small scale often with wooden lap boarding. There is also enough rogue elements on the street for me to decide that a water taxi to Caye Calker is the way to go.

Caye Caulker is a wonderful place. It is well built upon but on a small scale and definitely has a laid back vibe, helped by restrictions on vehicles (traffic extends only as far as golf buggues). Roads are merely compacted sand so you could walk around the island bare foot. You can't help feel that Utila in Honduras has missed a trick by allowing some vehicles and having a general lack of control (loud street music, fireworks etc); both places are similar but a world apart in ambience.

My hostel preference is fully booked so I spend a couple of nights in a cheap hotel and eventually move into Yumas Hostel (formerly Tinas) on the beach front for $25B. I had been advised that snorkling is a must here with diving being an option for the outer reefs (such as Glovers Reef and the Blue Hole - the cheapest price I found for diving the latter was $190US). I snorkel with Calos' (reputedly the best snorkel operator on the island) and visit four sites: Hol Chan, Coral Gardens and Shark and Ray Alley. The visibility is extremely good and the sights amazing. As my pictures on facebook demonstrate, there is an abundance of life on the reef - nurse sharks, moray eels, stingrays, spotted eagle rays and plenty of tropical fish. It really is a must.

The weather takes a turn for the worst so I decide to cross into Mexico. The best way to do this is by water taxi - you can cross into Chetumul in Mexico, which is quicker and also cheaper (you only pay $7.50B environmental tax rather than the $30B approx. departure tax if crossing by road). My destination is Tulum on the coast, which will form the beginning of my next blog.

---