Smedley

The difficulties of getting into the U.S. are highlighted at Cancun airport when American Airlines (who I'd booked my flight with to Miami) refused to allow me onto the flight without proof of an outward ticket. I didn't have one. This problem was compounded further when I was told that none of Cancun's three airport terminals had an internet cafe; the nearest internet cafe being some 30 minutes away in a taxi. This was time I didn't have and so begged somebody at the information desk to allow me to use their computer! I managed to rapidly buy a cheap flight from New York to London for around $370 being under half the price I was quoted at the American Airlines checking in desk! I also have to fill out an electronic visa waiver for around ... read more

Arriving into Chetumul by boat is a much better alternative than by road from Belize. It´s quicker and cheaper (you only pay a 7.50B environmental tax rather than the 30B tax approx. by land). Immediately there is Mexican military/police awaiting our arrival and have sniffer dogs at the ready for our bags. Funnily one of the luggage is a plastic box carrier containing a puppy; this being the only part of the luggage that the sniffer dog is interested in!...of course, I don´t want to be held responsible for giving drug traffickers any diversion ideas! Whilst there are shuttle buses available at our port, we have no Mexican Pesos to buy any tickets so we catch a cab to the bus station and pay with Belize dollars. Despite the taxi drivers assurances, there are no cash ... read more

Whilst in Cancun, I had assumed that I could purchase a ticket through Cuba´s national airline, Cubana, without any problems. Prior investigation revealed that flights are normally fully booked up for the next couple of days. However, their website is a little behind as I discover that the next flight is 8 days away when arriving into Cancun, and I don´t want to spend 8 days in Cancun! Fortunately, Cubana has a sales office in Cancun which are very helpful in finding me two cancellations - departing on the 20th and returning on the 24th. I´m wary that this might not be enough to see Havana, but it turns out to be just right. Prior planning is required as you can only take one of four currencies to Cuba - Canadian Dollar, Swiss Franc, Euro and ... read more

The first introduction to Belize was prior to the border crossing. After exchanging money I realise that it has been a long time since seeing the Queen on a banknote; it's good to see old 'Liz again! This leads neatly into some brief history of the country. I had noted that many maps in Guatemala still show Belize as part of Guatemala. This goes back to 1859 when Britain and Guatemala signed a treaty that gave Britain rights to the land provided that the British built a road from Guatemala to the Caribbean coast. The treaty still stands, but the road was never built; so Guatemala to this day has never accepted Belize as a separate territory. Eventually, independence was formed on 21st September 1981 when what was formerly British Honduras became what we know today ... read more

It's an early rise in Copan, Honduras for the shuttle to Antigua, Guatemala. The journey is nothing special but is noted for the peppering of the streets by Pepsi and Coca Cola who seem to be in stiff competition for the poor vendors out here. Unfortunately, the signs are the only vibrant colours along the dusty, barren streets and creates an uneasy relationship between poor indigenous communities and the creeping hand of multinationals. Guatemala has a very high indigenous Maya population which in itself makes it an extremely interesting destination. However, this has counted for little in the face of intrusions, mostly by the U.S. and U.S. based companies throughout this century. The then president, Guzman, in the 1950s attempted to break up estates and foster high productivity on small farms (huge U.S. companies owned the ... read more

The border crossing from Nicaragua to Honduras is relatively straight forward, firstly because they are part of the CA-4 border agreement with El Salvador and Guatemala, and secondly because I am on an international bus which assists you through the controls. My destination is San Pedro Susa in the north west of Honduras and requires only a brief stop in the capital, Tegucigalpa (long enough enough to realise the capital is a quite an unpleasant place!) Fortunately my arrival into San Pedro Susa coincides with the last bus to the Caribbean coastal town of La Ceiba, so I jump on that and stay the night in a cheap backpackers. The ferry ride to Utila (forming part of the Bay Islands) goes without incident. Upon arrival, I head straight for Captain Morgans Dive Centre and book myself ... read more

My first introduction to Nicaragua is not a pleasant one. After being stamped out at Costa Rica passport control, I walk the 1km along what I assume is no mans land towards the Nicaragua border control. This seems easy at first - a straight road with other fellow tourists making the same journey, or so I thought. This supposedly pedestrian journey slowly degenerates into vehicular chaos. I had earlier observed freight jams along Costa Rica´s roads heading to Nicaragua. It looks a strenous journey as it seems to get worse within and around the border controls. Its basically a swealtering, dusty, disorganised freight park with unmarked sporadic buildings. However, I manage to negotiate myself through the jams - much to the amusement of the locals - have my passport stamped for entry and manage to find ... read more

I had heard from fellow travellers and read in my guide book that Costa Rica was one of the most advanced Latin American countries. There is evidence of this as I make my way along the 16 hour coach journey from Panama City to San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. However, there are aspects which indicates that the country is not as developed as it should be. For example, the border crossing for one was like pulling teeth - 4 hours just to cross the border, and it wasnt even busy! One of the most surreal sights was a huge deisel locomotive chugging its way along a track which I had not previously noticed in the middle of a main street - for a moment I wondered whether the malaria tablets Id started taking that ... read more

We set off by boat from the small fishing village of Sapzurro in Columbia for a three day journey along the Caibbean coat of Panama, known as the San Blas islands. There are thirteen on the boat, two English, three Swiss, one Austrian, two Swedish, two Irish, two Israeli and one U.S. Together with the Kiwi and French Canadian skippers, it makes for a very enjoyable journey with so many nationalities. The only slight let down is the weather, i.e. it rains in part every day. However, this does not disguise the beauty of the islands which improve the further along the coast we go. Our first stop for lunch is on a deserted island - it being one of 365 which make up the San Blas islands of which 40 are inhabitated by Kuna communities. ... read more

My flight arrives into Bogota arrives during the daytime so I'm allowed a birds eye view of the city. First impressions are of a hilly and green agricultural city; the climate certainly testifies to this where it rains almost every day and the average year round temperature is around 16 degrees celcius. The view of the city (of some 7 million people) is much alike any other city which is confirmed at the ground; densely populated, congested roads, high rise, dereliction, homelessness etc. However, the extent of these problems is no where near as I had imagined them. Any uninformed visitor to the capital of Colombia might have visions of a very dangerous and inhospitable place. However, my experience is to the contrary. Great advances have been made over the past few years to clean up ... read more