Beautiful Barbados

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Geo: 13.11, -59.61

Our third Caribbean port was Bridgetown, Barbados. We docked there about 7am but it was after 8 when we were given the all clear to leave the ship. We had had breakfast so about 8-20am we disembarked without the crush of the last two ports. At the Terminal it was far more organised with a taxi dispatcher taking charge. A Best of Barbados tour was advertised at $US25 each but when we asked we were told that you needed a group of about 14 for that price. When we said we just wanted to go by ourselves we were told $US 80 in total for two and a half hours. That sounded good to us as the onboard tours were at least that per head.
Our taxi driver was Anne. She wanted to know what we were interested in and when we said history rather than beaches and mentioned a couple of places I had read about we were off!
She drove past Kensington Oval, close to the port, the major cricket ground here where we saw the statue of Garfield Sobers in front. Then we went along the coast past Holetown and Speightown. These are the areas where the rich and famous hang out when in Barbados. Rihanna's house was pointed out to us and we did get to see many resort hotels which unfortunately obscure the view of the beach from the road. However, Anne assured us that all beaches in the island are public so anyone can use them.
Our first stop was at the St James Parish Church, the oldest in Barbados. The original wooden church was built in 1628 and this present one replaced it in the early 1680s and though it has been added on to since then substantially remains the same. In the southern entrance is the original baptismal font dated 1684 and a stained glass window, across from which is a modern glass mosaic depicting the Tree of Life. Directly opposite in the northern entrance is the original Bell cast in England in 1696. It fell out of the belfry 200 years ago. We were shown around by a local volunteer and he was very interesting, relating various stories about the church and its history. I was impressed with the large pipe organ, over 130 years old, which dominated the choir loft.
From here we drove inland and up through several villages, winding our way up the hills. We stopped at one of the higher points where we could see the Atlantic coastline of the island with several surf beaches. Our next stop was a St Nicholas Abbey. Built in 1658, this is one of the island's oldest surviving sugar plantations. It was originally based on slave labour, but after emancipation continued to grow and process sugar until the 20th century. The lower floors of the house are preserved for viewing with 18th century Georgian furniture. We liked the "Gentleman's" chair which had a light, a table and was on wheels so could be moved, with the gentleman in it, if he started snoring! The dining room was set with English hand-painted china on a 19th century mahogany table and sideboard.
Out the back of the house was the cellar and terrace. They now make rum here and we were given a delicious Rum Punch to try as we entered. We then viewed a fascinating film, taken in the 1930s by an English member of the family on a visit. His grandson discovered it in a drawer and it has been edited to about 20 minutes. It shows the family embarking at Dover and then on board ship. Once in Barbados it documents the whole sugar cane harvesting and production of the syrup and molasses. It is a great social history document. Then the current owner came to speak to us and offered his 5 year old and 10 year old Rum for tasting. It was too much for me but Fletcher enjoyed it. He told us he had recently sent an engraved bottle to Benedict Cumberbatch on the birth of his son. The Cumberbatch family was one of the original owners here. The house was set in extensive gardens with rows of mahogany trees as well as the sugar fields.
We drove on through the countryside. Anne identified all the plants for us as we passed, showing us various vegetable gardens and orchards. We saw the herd which provides the milk for the locals and stopped at a sugar mill with the only windmill still intact. We then came to Gun Signal Station, one of the highest points on the island. A series of signal towers was established across Barbados so that any attackers could be spotted and warning signals sent. This has been restored and is set in stunning gardens. I admired the several species of colourful butterflies fluttering amongst the flowers. From the top of the tower we could see back to the harbour and our ship in port.
The final stage of our tour took us back into Bridgetown and to the Garrison complex. This is next to the local racecourse which is lined with a dazzling array of cannon. There are some beautiful old buildings here. Anne then dropped us into the centre of the town, next to the Careenage and the bridge which gives the place its name. She had been a great driver and guide and we had gone well over the original time so Fletcher gave her $US100, which pleased her greatly.
We stopped for lunch at a balcony restaurant and took advantage of their free WiFi. Then we walked across the bridge and down the main shopping street. This is far more sophisticated than either Antigua or St Lucia with large Duty Free shops and modern looking facades, One street back was a pedestrian Mall where the locals were mainly shopping and we walked along this back to the Parliament buildings. These are made of stone and have crenelated towers, draped in the colours of the Barbadian flag, black, yellow and blue. Across from these is Trafalgar Street and Heroes square. This contains a statue of Nelson which predates the one in Trafalgar Square in London.
It had been an interesting day and we were now rather tired so we got a taxi back to the port. We stopped at the Terminal and had a drink with Roger and Judy who had had to find a doctor for Judy as she has a fungal infection in her foot. We then made a couple of purchases in the souvenir shops before reboarding the Astor. Sail Away was at 6pm so we went up on deck to watch Barbados recede into the background. Now for the Panama Canal in three day's time.

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