We pedalled out of Culotte Cove into an uncertain, windless sea. The sky was dark and foreboding, but it was clear the gale had passed on, leaving calm seas in its wake. We drifted in and out of thick fog patches all day, at times unable to see anything but the swells around us, until the mist would lift and treat us to the sight of primeval rock islands rising unexpectedly from the water. We were able to navigate using GPS, so we were not lost, as this stylish picture of me would suggest, but it was eerie to be out of sight of land, islands, anything, hearing the roar of the breakers on rocks and shoals as we went around them, but never seeing them. The seabirds became our constant companions, rising and falling on
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