it's sunday night, august 31, 2008. the ceremony went well and everyone seemed to be having a great time. my grandmother was happy and that to me was all that mattered. family feuds still put me on edge but i had to snuff out the fire less it ruined everything we worked so hard to prepare for. about 50 people attended the Bon including 4 monks. i'm hot and sweaty and irritated. the back of my neck hurts and i need a cold beer. i'm at an internet cafe by the water, the Tonle Sap, and it's as bustling with cars, motobikes and people as the more progressive Bangkok. change is not close, it is here. i can't believe how things have changed so dramatically since the last time i was here 5 months ago. the
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