We wake up to perhaps the most amazing view ever. Nothing but ocean to the left, but up ahead the entire horizon is made up of a chain of snow-covered, rugged mountains. A clear and sunny day sets them off just perfectly. Gemma gets a bit trigger-happy with her (film-using) camera, but for once it's worth it. We dock in Yakatat and wave goodbye to 3 American surfers who have heard that there are some good waves within 100 miles or so. The cycle off, pulling their homemade surfboard-holding trailers behind them. Nutters. We are in a big, 700 passenger capacity ferry. And we are in a port that has more or less just a jetty, in a town whose census could be done by just asking one of the residents. But there are a
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