Hanoi is only a short flight away from Laos, but a world away in pace from polite, sleepy Vientiane. In the old city the streets are narrow and crowded, full of taxis, vans, trucks, cyclists and more motorbikes than you can imagine. The streets are also where people walk, dodging the traffic, because the pavements are full of stalls, people cooking, people sitting on small plastic stools, people standing and talking, and lots of parked motorbikes. There was a huge thunderstorm on our first evening, while we sat having dinner, with torrential rain and a strong gusty wind. The food in Indochina has generally been good, but Vietnamese food is a cut above the rest: more variety, greater use of lemongrass, ginger and garlic (three favourites!), and more attractively served. After a night in Hanoi we
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