Page 2 of markhowartharcher Travel Blog Posts


Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 16th 2012

After far too few hours sleep I woke up and frantically finished packing my bags all the while thinking why on earth did I leave this rather important task until moments before I was due to depart for my trek. My guide turned up at the hotel 30 mins early which left me with even less time to pack and to say goodbye to Sonia, who was by now the only other remaining Dragomite. I said a sad and rather rushed goodbye to Sonia before jumping in the Toyota Hiace that would transport me to foothills of the Annapurnas and the start point of my 20 day trek around the range. On the way out of the city we picked up a very nice English couple from Yorkshire who were trekking the same route but were ... read more
Besisahar 2
The route between Besisihar and Syange
Elevation map of the circuit

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu April 16th 2012

The previous nights indulgent excesses meant I did not enjoy the short journey from Royal Beach to Kathmandu one bit. Upon arrival in Kathmandu I said a half hearted goodbye to Kristina our truck (this would be the last time we would see her), ordered lunch at our hotel, realised I felt far too sick to eat lunch and then promptly went to bed (after familiarising myself several times with the toilet of course). As it would turn out, bed is a place I would become very familiar with whilst in Kathmandu. After sleeping most of the day I woke up shortly before it was time to leave for our final goodbye meal (this actually turned out to be one of many, many, many goodbye meals), despite sleeping all afternoon I still felt like a turd ... read more
Beard trimming and mohawk cutting
The finished result
Me ill in bed :-(

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu April 16th 2012

It was a short hour or so drive to the Nepalese border from the beautiful (haha) town of Siliguri. I find land borders are often much more interesting places to enter a country than the usual airport in the capital/major city route. While border towns are usually fairly ugly places they do provide a fascinating insight into the people and commodities of a country which is quite different to what you would see if arriving into the capital or a major city by air. Security at the border seemed rather relaxed, indeed we had to search out the Indian emigration building which we eventually found down a small dusty path. Indian emigration was staffed by one man who will not be winning awards any time soon for his dedication to interrogation, indeed he scarcely looked up ... read more
Just a natural pose at Chitwan!
Me pretending to be a chicken at Chitwan
Rhino poo, about the most exciting thing we saw on our walking safari at Chitwan

Asia » India » Sikkim » Gangtok April 16th 2012

While the jeep ride up to Darjeeling had been a real beauty, it was very much a nothing special Norma in comparison to the rather exceptional drive to Gangtok from Karmi Farm. The journey began with a descent to the valley floor on a steep zig-zagging road (all roads here are steep and zig zaggy), passing through forests we noticed the temperature rise and flora become distinctly more tropical as we descended. Upon reaching the valley floor we came to a bridge which crossed over an impossibly scenic river, this marked the border between West Bengal State and Sikkim state. We were advised to get out of our jeeps and walk across the bridge as Andrew at Karmi Farm had advised us that there were concerns locally about the strength and stability of the bridge, especially ... read more
The bridge entering Sikkim State
River in Sikkim
River in Sikkim 2

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling March 20th 2012

I was sad to leave Darjeeling but was also very much looking forward to our next destination and looking forward even more to the journey to our next destination. Our next destination was Karmi Farm, a farm/guesthouse owned and run by a man of Anglo-Indian descent who was himself brought up on the farm. Our method of arrival (well mine and a few others) was by foot, this may not sound exciting but the prospect of a challenging, long walk through beautiful countryside and rural villages sounded as good as a plate full of bacon, sausage, beans and hash browns. We were warned in advance that it would be a challenging walk being around 25km in length and involving 2000m of steep decline and 1000m of very steep incline, however having never done anything with quite ... read more
The road we walked on the walk from Darjeeling to Karmi Farm
Field scene on walk from Darjeeling to Karmi Farm
Me on the dodgy bridge

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling March 20th 2012

From the moment we got into our jeeps at Siliguri station the journey to Darjeeling felt like the start of a new adventure, Darjeeling promised to be different to anything we had experienced thus far and there’s something about being in a crappy Tata jeep with an insane Indian driver and cheesy Bangra playing at full volume that gets the adrenaline pumping. The ride to Darjeeing took around 4 hours, most of which was spent climbing up hill on very narrow, switch back roads which clung to the side of the hill by their very finger tips, it was often best not to look out of the window as potential death seemed to lay around every corner, this was not a road that you would want your driver to misjudge. It became apparent very quickly why ... read more
Me turning prayer wheel's at the Tibetan self help centre
A woodworker at the Tibetan self help centre
A rather shocking poster at the Tibetan self help centre

Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata March 20th 2012

I was told today it was Friday, it’s a good thing I was told as had I been asked I would not have been able to give you an answer. I have genuinely completely lost track of what day of the week it is and what the date is because these things have simply become irrelevant. It is a truly liberating feeling to not have a single concern about two pieces of information which used to dictate my life and mood. Monday no longer means despair at a full week of work, Sunday no longer means the day to rest (or usually nurse a brutal hanover), Saturday no longer means party night. The only thing I keep a lose track of these days is the time and thats just so I know when to expect my ... read more
The girls posing beautifully
Jenny and myself
My new toy and me

Asia » India » Orissa March 20th 2012

For the next 4 nights and 5 days we would be bush camping in the remote hills of South West Orissa visiting local tribes enroute. I had mixed feelings about the next few days, I was looking forward to camping and getting away from the crowds and chaos of the plains and into the relatively tranquil and remote Orissa hill villages, however I was very much worried about not being able to shower for 5 days, a potential hygiene/stench disaster given the daily temperature was on average close to 40 degrees. My biggest concern of all though was that 5 days of ogling the natives might get a little repetitive, especially as I’m not a massive fan of ‘tribal tours’ in the first place as I find they can be a little patronising and voyeuristic. The ... read more
Tribal market
Our truck under a huge banyan tree in a tribal village
Homes being built by the government for the Daruba tribe

Asia » India » Andhra Pradesh March 1st 2012

The temple of Lord Venkateshwara is supposedly“one of the richest and most popular places of pilgrimage in world, drawing more devotees than either Rome or Mecca” (Rough Guide, 2011). Around 100,000 people visit the temple every day (Jenny Dufour, 2012), some queuing for up to 14 hours. Now that’s devotion. A shorter queue is available although you do of course have to pay a premium for the privilege. Sounds like quite a spectacle. Well yes it does until you hear that even in the ‘premium’ queue you will probably have to wait around 4 hours in line with several thousand Indians who to be honest don’t follow British etiquette when it comes to queuing. All of this to see what our tour leader described as a pretty average temple that you only get to spend a ... read more
Children at our second bushcamp
Sunset at second bushcamp
Group photo with locals on morning after second bushcamp

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Chennai March 1st 2012

The drive from Mallaparum to Chennai was not a particularly long one, but we had left early as the truck needed repair work done on it in a garage in Chennai and thus needed to get there as early as possible. This normally would have been fine, but given that we were (most of us anyway) hideously hungover from the previous nights farewell party, an early start was most unwelcome. Already this was starting to be a bad day. Today was always destined to be a sad/bad day however as it was leaving day for many great people whom I had come to know and love. Today we would be saying a sad farewell to the legends that are Sally, Sarah, Bill, Carol, Colin, Marge and Luciana, as well as my very good friends Peter (room ... read more




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