To a great degree, I am at a loss as to how to put Delhi into words. Delhi is everything I imagined it would be, but at the same time so much more intensely real and complex than I imagined. Jeff and I stepped out of the airport at 7 in the morning the day of our arrival--having not slept at all--into a crowd of honking taxis and sputtering rickshaws, climbed into a rickety taxi van, and took off down the left side of a crumbling road where taxis, cars, busses, auto rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws, mopeds holding entire families, and pedestrians all fought for a space, ignoring the lane lines entirely. We passed wandering cows, endless shantytowns, people carrying impossible loads on their bycycles, wide-eyed children pleading for money at every red light, stray dogs darting
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