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South America » Bolivia January 2nd 2023

Wednesday 28th December - Monday 2nd January 2022 A taxi, two flights, another taxi and 8hours later, we found ourselves arriving into La Paz, Bolivia, at 4am and super happy with ourselves that we had arranged ‘early check in’ and got to dive into bed straight away. Hello Bolivia, but night night! Thankfully, after a few hours of decent kip, a good breakfast and a couple more hours of sleep, we felt reenergised and ready to go exploring again. We’d made it out of Peru! A much bigger city, La Paz was a bit of a sensory overload as we exited the hotel straight onto a busy street, full of people, market stalls and cars. So many cars and buses, clearly owning the right of way in every situation, even when the man is green, beeping ... read more
straight into markets
Pretty streets
Witches market

South America » Peru December 27th 2022

Friday 23rd December - Tuesday 27th December Arriving early Christmas Eve morning back in Cuzco, we decided fate had made us still be in Cuzco for Christmas for good reason; the massive Christmas market in the centre square that spiralled out to the side streets and outer squares, and the chance to hear the ancient organs and choir sing in the huge cathedral for the Christmas mass. We couldn’t wait to start celebrating and with a calmer Peru and believing everything was normal again (at least until January) we had settled with plans to move down to Puno by bus after Christmas and then into Bolivia for new year. However, as good as we were feeling, when finalising our rearranged buses, we soon learnt that the political truce had obviously not been agreed by the protesters ... read more
llama latte!
Christmas markets
Nativity

South America » Peru December 24th 2022

Monday 19th December- Friday 23rd December 2022 With airports open but roads still blocked, we were still in Cuzco and overthinking every possibility and thought on what to do next. Do we keep waiting for the roads to open to be able to bus to Puerto Maldonado for our Amazon adventure, as originally planned, or do we give up waiting and just fly out of Peru, like many others, and into Bolivia; skipping the Amazon and lake Titicaca or potentially visiting these sites Bolivian side. Trying to look at options on the internet was complicated and getting thoughts and advice from the Italians and the locals here we’d met (taxi drivers, hotel staff, Inca trail people) made it feel like we were going round in circles. Then we saw a direct flight from Cuzco to Puerto ... read more
it’s the Amazon Jungle!
And onto a boat
Lunch on the boat

South America » Peru December 22nd 2022

Tuesday 13th - Sunday 18th December 2022 The celebratory drink and lunch was soon consumed and we were left with a big decision to make with very little reliable information to hand. Our guide Ivan tried to offer a choice of plans with the information he had, but we could see even he (and all the other guides and staff swapping info with each other) didn’t really know for sure what the situation was. At this point, we either waited in Aguas Calientes in hope the train starts again later this afternoon (and, if the highly likely situation that it does not run then we end up staying a night and hoping again tomorrow) or we start walking the train track ourselves to the point where the road joins at km82 and we can get our ... read more
Following the river
rail blocks
Rains again

South America » Peru December 14th 2022

Saturday 10th December to Tuesday 13th December Excited and nervous, we bumbled into the mini bus at 5am, with our hiking packs lightly loaded to act as day packs we’d be carrying, and then an equally loaded red duffel bag each which the porters would carry for us; along with all the camping and cooking gear and food. Very different to our GR11 independent hike, but due to the Inca Trail being so regulated now, you have to have a permit and guide to walk it. Doing it with a tour group, means not only do you get a guide, but you also get a chef, and 2-3 porters per tourist. This means, for our surprisingly small group of two (yep, just me & Paul), we had a guide (Ivan), a chef (William) and 5 more ... read more
And we are off!
going steady
first of many Inca sites on the trail

South America » Peru December 14th 2022

Tuesday 6th December to Friday 9th December Four days in Cuzco The first time I woke on the night bus to find it stopped, I figured it was just a driver break. The second time I woke to find it stopped, felt a little more suspicious, especially when Paul pointed out that 6hours in and, according to google maps, we were barely away from Arequipa. Trying to see out into the blackness more, we realised everything was covered in snow! Whaaaaat?! No information given, but no panic with no one seeming bothered, we continued to sleep on and off for the next several hours, following on google to see we were going a different route then expected, until, after a 10hour journey became a 17hour one, we finally reached Cuzco. Uber, Hostal, Cafe, and, feeling real ... read more
Cuzco centre
Finds the most expensive outdoor shop
Temple of the sun

South America » Peru December 5th 2022

Wednesday 30th November - Monday 5th December 2022 Leaving Lima, our next big stop was going to be Cuzco, but, this would mean a very, very long time on a bus, and missing out on some very picturesque parts of Peru. Huacachina, a mere 4.5hour bus from Lima to Ica, followed by a short taxi ride (haggled from 20 to 12 soles thanks to having the knowledge from a helpful local on the bus), is a popular Oasis town in the middle of a desert. Small, touristy, full of hostels, restaurants and tour groups wanting you to use them, but with such an amazing backdrop, we had heard this beautiful and hot little lagoon is worth checking out for a night. Which is what we did. Checked into our hostel, we eagerly accepted their offer of ... read more
Strapped in
mad max style
Sand everywhere

South America » Peru November 29th 2022

Saturday 26th - Tuesday 29th November 2022 Waking up early, as we bumped along with the continuous rumble of the bus, we were met with beautiful views of huge sandy hills, intercepted with the winding road we were following and various little towns along the way. A few more hours later, and we suddenly saw a much bigger town ahead of us, sprawling inland from the Pacific Ocean to the desert like land, Lima. Happy to be getting off the coach 20hours later, we had a confusing time finding our pre booked taxi, followed by another 2 hours in a taxi from one end to the other; turns out Lima is pretty big. Pure Lima traffic, apparently normal for here, meant quick starts and stops, clear attempts at trying to whizz off the main road and ... read more
Casa Porta Hotel
Christmas is coming
Historical Centre of Lima

South America November 28th 2022

Monday 21st Nov - Friday 25th Nov After a simple flight out of the Galápagos, we landed back on mainland Ecuador, but this time in the city of Guayaquil. We had read up on the place and heard it had some pretty dodgey areas and that recently there had been a burst of activity from drug gangs targeting police here, but it made more sense then returning to Quito seeing as the plan is to travel down into Peru. However, Graciela had also just told us that morning, as we left the safe and beautiful Galápagos, that she had spoken to another couple who had come from Guayaquil who had said they had to ditch their coffees and run one afternoon as a couple of cars suddenly whizzed passed shooting up into the air. Hmmmmm! So ... read more
Iguana park
Cable car
Massive graveyard

South America » Ecuador November 21st 2022

Monday 14 - Monday 21 Nov 2022 Being part of Ecuador, visiting the Galápagos Islands, with all its legendary beauty and unique wildlife, seemed like a no brainer when planning this trip, and boy are we glad we made it! It is beautiful and magical. It is also mega expensive, so let’s start with that. Firstly, you have to fly in and out of the Galapagos from Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil) so with no other option that is around 500 straight up; make sure you’ve got your return flight out booked as proof is needed when entering. Then there is the 20USD tourist tax to pay at the mainland airport (in a booth by the airport entrance before even checking in!) followed by the 100USD entrance fee at the airport on the other side (to help ... read more
Cozy Hostings apartment
Daphne Island snorkel trip
Deep sea snorkel




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