We decided to visit the mountains of Kashmir and leave Kerala until later. The weather, apparently,would be beautiful on the mountains at this time of year. It was, however, raining heavily, and continued to do so for 4 days solid. This made life on the houseboat slightly dull. Rare bouts of electricity allowed us to watch Indian news on TV, and salespeople on boats came calling regularly to hound us for business. We met a great guy called Ross and had a real laugh. We waited for the rain to end so that we could go trekking in the mountains. It didn't, so they sent us trekking anyway and after a treacherous journey to a town called Naranag (this is another story), we arrived in our accommodation, a small hut owned by a gypsy family. This
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