We are amazed at the hype building up to this trip. While we are not expert travellers, we have made some great independant treks across central america visiting Maya ruins. We generally 'wing it' wuth the only constraint is when we have to cathc the plane home. In researching our SEA trek, we keep hearing 'book ahead or there will be no rooms', independant travel can't be done', etc., etc. I'm beginning to believe that these are nothing more than internet touts.
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