Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan Our next stop on our rail odyssey (via attempted bribery by a border official), was Kazakhstan. We stayed in the city of Almaty, which was the capital until 1998, and still remains the biggest city in the country. We went from the sandy-toned romance and steamy, mysterious atmosphere of the Silk Route citadels of Uzbekistan to the cool, sleek affluence of one of Central Asia's biggest cities. It was drizzly on arrival, which was a welcome break from the relentless sun we'd had up until then. Almaty is a strange city, in that it is virtually impossible to pinpoint a centre to it - we saw the new 'Independence Square', which consists of some space for some symbolic statues by the side of one of the main roads, rather than a square
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