Matthaus

Matthew Buckley
Joined: October 24th 2009
Logged in: January 1st 2012
“Travel is glamorous only in retrospect when turned into an impossibly euphoric blog post”

Travel Blog Posts



Ten months in Korea as an English teacher and another New Year. Ah, I'm feeling reflective. Time for a long overdue disjointed and chaotic entry on my time in Seoul during 2011... Don't Believe the Hype And so, flashbacks to the beginnning of the previous New Year, when I was first considering coming to Korea... And naturally I was interested in trying to understand what this small country, surrounded by three of the greatest powers in history - China, Japan and Russia - was all about. And what type of experience I could expect teaching overseas in a country that, shamefully, I could have exhausted my entire knowledge in a few syllables - Park Ji Sung. I recall that, as usual, my background research was very sophisticated and involved the crude Google “Teaching English in Korea”. ... read more

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Unlike some countries, such as India and China, which possess such grand scale and awe-inspiring sites and experieces that they nearly induce you to shit your brain out of your nose in pure wander, Korea has a more subtle charm... Take Gyeongju... Delicate and understated, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla has a laid back atmosphere, historic temples and grassy burial grounds... Not grandiose in any way and lacking in scale, but with an inconspicuous appeal that slowly creeps up on you rather than blows your mind... And after nearly three months in Seoul I have to say that, whilst not the most immediate or attention-grabbing city I have ever seen, I am beginning to finally discover the initially slightly elusive appeal of the place... For all the mind numbingly bland high-rises there are ... read more

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I’d read a lot of stuff about Seoul before I got here... A bizarre city drowning in neon madness to the frenzied synthesized rhythms of Grandmother Techno, with students belting out cheesy ballads in noraebang (Korean karaoke joints)... “Questionable English” rife... An energy drink called Coolpiss… A fast-food chain often spelt Bugger King... Public toilets "Out of Control"…... A country steeped in ancient tradition... A line of more than one hundred kings stretching back thousands of years... Buddhist temples... Shaman rituals... Confucian-style formal ceremonies... The fascinating – but tragic – recent history of Korea... A country shattered and fractured by shocking violence in the Korean War, a conflict that I must confess I knew little about, with it seemingly overshadowed by World War II and... read more

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It may seem premature to make an assessment on a year of your life in October, given that there are still two months left before it draws to a close, but 2010 already ranks as the best of my 30 years. Being able to realise the long-standing ambition of traveling around the world has been unquestionably the best experience of my life... Which makes the reluctant acceptance that my trip is now drawing to a close all the harder to bear... But, at 7,970 feet above sea level, standing on a mountain ridge above the Urumbamba Valley, after crossing the snow capped peaks of Salkantay, through the tropical cloud forests and Andean villages of the Sacred Valley, and gazing upon the "Lost City of the Incas", Machu Picchu sits in sacred majesty... As a mesmerising reminder ... read more

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In dense, exotic and pristinely preserved cloud forests, on the isolated "buffer zone" of Parque National Manu on the Amazon basin frontier, I watch the forest treetops sway tentatively in the breeze as still grey clouds and fresh oxygen usurp the heat, humidity and stale air of the morning, all in ominous anticipation of the approaching storm... Then the rain starts to fall... A steady, cumbersome shower that progressively builds into a heavy deluge as the clouds turn angrier and the river, usually reflecting the lush green jungle landscape in tranquil glassy brilliance, is transformed into dark, muddy and malevolent rapid, reignited by the aggressive downpour... Distant thunder draws closer and the impenetrable ink black blanket of night falls over the forest until brilliant white sheets of lightening illuminate the sky, spidery silhouettes of the treetops ... read more

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After another epic bus journey, this time through the sterile rainless plateau that is the Atacama Desert, I arrive at San Pedro de Atacama and feel like I am in an undefinable nowhere that the rest of the world has forgotten... Fortunetley, San Pedro soon reveals its hidden charms... A small town with a network of narrow streets lined with sun-dried brick bulidings, clustered around a surprisingly green plaza and a pretty white church, the unassuming town actually has a number of guesthouses, restaurants, Internet cafés and tour agencies to cater for the number of tourists who flock to see the otherworldly landscapes that surround the area... The nearby Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon, has areas that have not received a single drop of rain in hundreds of years and the luna ... read more

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¨Travel is the best form of education. Personal encounters with people who are different from ourselves make us feel more sympathetic. Intolderance often arises from ignorance of another person´s needs and way of thinking.¨ So says my little book of Buddhism that was randomly gifted to me in Chinatown, Singapore by someone who assumably thought I looked like I needed help... But I´m inclined to agree... But thus far, still under two weeks into my three month excursion through South America, I must confess that I have felt very much on the periphery out here. And I think it can be attributed to one factor... Language. And the problem is mine and very much an English one. Not Spanish. As someone who grew up in the Home Counties, a part of the world where many people ... read more

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Some things in the world are simply uncomprehensible... War. Famine. Genocide. Inequality. Poverty. Rafa Benítez. The fact that I am still single... Add Aussie Rules Football to the list. It's the most confusing game known to man - a confounding baffling and brilliant puzzle which is utterly beyond my (perhaps limited) cranial capacity! Sitting amounst 80,000 excitable Australians in the impressive Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), all engrossed in Victoria's main sporting obsession, I am completely bewildered by what is clearly a very exciting fast moving game... But with absolutely no understanding of what the hell is actually unfolding before me... It is however still ace! And one thing that you can rely on the Aussie's to have in common with us is their love of beer, which seems to be as integral a part of the ... read more

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Born of radical communism, the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh in 1974 after Cambodia had endured five years of foreign interventions, bombardment and civil war. Initially received with joyous celebration, the Khmer Rouge quickly initiated the systematic extermination of its own population. By the time the Vietnamese drove the Khmer Rouge into their Thai camps in 1979, between one and two million Cambodian's were dead... It is hard to imagine a more tragic and heartbreaking history. And in Phnom Penh, once known as the "Pearl of Asia" and regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in Indochina, you might expect a city that has endured so much darkness would be shrouded in an endless gloom, survivors swallowed in a vortex of grief and bitterness and a new generation struggling with the burden of a ... read more

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Drifting around on a Junk boat (minus the actual sail) through limestone mountains soaring out of the waters, 20 million years in the making, Descending Dragon Bay (as Halong Bay literally translates) was certainly one of the highlights of my month long trip to Vietnam... As a UNESCO World Heritage sight, Halong clearly attracts a lot of tourists... Initially arriving at the bay from Hanoi we are herded by charmless, dead eyed tour company workers like cattle onto the numerous boats lining the docks, overcast grey skies looming above and a thick blanket of fog covering the bay... However, shortly after setting off, the mist clears and a splendid sun illuminates the ancient karst peaks, which are reflected in the brilliant crystal waters which suddenly make the prospect of swimming and Kayaking significantly more appealing... There ... read more

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