the climbing refuge at 5000 meters (16400 feet) was the starting point for the guide and I. we started climbing at 11 p.m. and soon ecountered soft snow that resisted the grip of crampons, sort of two steps up and slide back down one step. also we there were frequent areas of snow where you could hear water running underneath the snow surface...so we detoured to avoid these areas and this didn´t make for the most direct route to the summit. as the sun rose, after seven hours of climbing, we had reached 6000 meters (19700 feet) and the guide and i decided to forego the summit and turn back. the top was about 1000 feet further. the climb was not technical, just long and steep and high enough to cause a painful headace, and with
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