John & Helen Botham

John and Helen

John & Helen live in Melbourne and this blog is a diary of the second half of their round Australia trip.



Travel Blog Posts


Nullabor and Home

Published: October 4th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia
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John and Helen
October 4th 2008

On leaving Albany the weather was cool but sunny with a threat of rain later, so we booked a self-contained unit at Quaalup Retreat on the border of Fitzgerald NP. It was just as well we did not plan to go straight into the National Park as the road was closed because of the recent rain. Having dried out our wet tent, we had lunch with Vicky, the resident kangaroo, and then drove to a beautiful wide beach where we watched whales frolicking in the sea from the top of a sand dune. Back at the homestead we went on a fantastic wildflower walk with many flowers unique to the area on display. The next day we walked to the top of West Mt Barren to see the wildflowers and the stunning view from the summit, ... read more



Avon Valley to Albany

Published: September 26th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia
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John and Helen
September 26th 2008

Our first stop on the Avon River was Toodyay (pronounced Toojay), an old pioneer town. We stayed at a B&B outside the town with a hill at the back covered in wildflowers. The cold showery weather continued the next day as we drove on to Goomalling, a small country town dominated by wheat domes. Helen ran a course at the local Primary School to a packed audience. Heading south again we called in at Northam and met Glenda Richards, a speech pathologist that Helen had not met since they were at college together in Melbourne. The next town York, was the first inland town established in WA and full of old buildings and history. We enjoyed looking around the old court house and police station beautifully restored by the National Trust. We had lunch in Beverley, ... read more



Coalseam to Perth

Published: September 19th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia
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John and Helen
September 19th 2008

Heading south again, we hoped to camp at another wayside stop, this time on the Murchison River. However, it was still cool and windy, so we headed on to Kalbarri and stopped at a motel there. It was not a good choice as the Hotel next door had live music for the Friday night partiers. The weather still looked a little overcast the next day as we headed into Kalbarri NP, but the wealth of wildflowers lifted our spirits. Some spectacular kangaroo paws caught our eye as we entered the park and the carpets of flowers were beautiful as we walked around the Loop Walk, a walk inside a loop on the Murchison River, which starts at the famous Natures Window. Fortunately, the sun came out during the walk and we were hopeful of being able ... read more



Shark Bay

Published: September 11th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Shark Bay
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John and Helen
September 11th 2008

After a night in Exmouth in an interesting motel, a converted accommodation block from the old US Navy establishment (it brought back memories of Akrotiri), we set off to Cape Range NP and joined the queue for camp sites at the entrance at 7:30. We were thirteenth in the queue and the people at the front had been there since 4:30! Fortunately, there were eighteen camp sites available so we got in. Our camp site was a disappointment, deep soft sand, no shade and very cramped. To make matters worse, the weather looked very stormy. We drove south into the rain to Mandu Mandu Gorge. After the shower we went for a lovely walk through the gorge. The gravel creek bed winded through flowering shrubs with impressive rock walls on each side, the path returning along ... read more



Karijini

Published: September 4th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Karijini National Park
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John and Helen
September 4th 2008

A long drive south across spinifex plains surrounded by spectacular hills, with mile-long iron ore trains for company to Karijini NP. The camp sites there are notoriously difficult for tents - we had to find ways of hammering tent pegs into what seemed like road base made from iron ore. The campgrounds are located on a spinifex plain with nearby gorges cut into it down to 100m. From Dales camping ground we explored spectacular gorge scenery. We walked along the bottom of the gorge from Circular Pool to Fern Pool counting six lovely swimming holes. Fern Creek was the nicest water hole we had encountered on our trip so far - an almost unbelievably pretty setting, with little warm waterfalls cascading down amongst delicate green ferns, the crystal clear water a delight to swim in. We ... read more



Karratha

Published: August 29th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Karratha
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John and Helen
August 29th 2008

After a morning’s shopping in Broome we headed south along the coast hoping to find a nice camp site on the beach. Unfortunately, there were only large crowded caravan parks. It was getting late so we stopped at 80 Mile Beach caravan park and found a site looking away from the crowds into the dunes. We were compensated with a lovely sunset across the beach. Heading south again the next day we started to see many wildflowers by the roadside - the Sturt Desert Peas were spectacular. We visited Port Hedland and had lunch overlooking the iron ore ships loading. We then gave up on the coast and headed inland to Millstream Chichester NP. Again it was getting late and we were frustrated when the first two camp sites we visited were unsuitable for tents. We ... read more



Broome

Published: August 23rd 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Kimberleys
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John and Helen
August 23rd 2008

What a contrast after the sandstone gorges of the Kimberly interior, to arrive in Broome with its aquamarine sea and pristine white beaches. We drove to Cable Beach to eat our lunch and were overcome by the sight. We just had to go for a swim. Broome is a booming holiday town with an interesting history of pearling. We went to the movies at an historic outside cinema, sitting in deck chair canvas under the stars watching the story of the nuns at Beagle Bay. We had just visited Beagle Bay seeing the church built by the German priests and with an altar decorated with pearl shells. We called there on our way up the Dampier Peninsular to camp in lovely Pender Bay remote from civilisation. We swam in the sea and walked on the beach, ... read more



Gibb River Road

Published: August 16th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Kimberleys
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John and Helen
August 16th 2008

This is the big trip across the Gibb River Road. We had a full tank of petrol, the fridge was overflowing with meat (much of it vacuum packed to keep longer), and every nook and cranny in the car was full of vegetables, fruit and other food items. Our first stop was El Questro, a five star outback resort, but we were down at the camp site. But what a camp site we had - a private remote site on the Pentecost River bank. We walked into and swam in the El Questro and Moonshine gorges and wallowed in the warm Zebedee Springs before taking a boat trip on the Chamberlain Gorge. The day was rounded off with a glass of champagne on the return boat trip. The scenery in El Questro was beautiful with orange ... read more



Bungle Bungles

Published: August 6th 2008Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Kimberley
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John and Helen
August 5th 2008

A very pretty drive south from Kununurra, then a hard FWD track for 50km east to Purnululu NP. We found a nice bush site to set up camp and made additional shade - it was now a sunny 34º - by tying a ground sheet between the tent and some trees. There were only communal barbecue areas, so we shared a fire with an interesting party - two young women with two little boys and one man. We were up early the next day as we were still very much on central Australia time (1½ hours ahead of WA time), which was just as well as it was good to get going in the cool of the day. We drove to the northern area of the park and walked into Mini Palms Gorge (nothing special) and ... read more



Gregory

Published: August 1st 2008Oceania » Australia » Northern Territory
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John and Helen
August 1st 2008

Our first camp at last, in beautiful Jasper Gorge south of the Victoria Highway in the north west corner of the Northern Territory. We camped under the boughs of a huge old Boab tree by the Jasper River - only pools of water, no flow - and walked up stream past little pools by sheer cliffs of red sandstone. We invited the only other campers there to afternoon tea. They were an interesting couple from Albany in the south of WA who provided us with some useful tips of places to visit and a return invitation to tea when we eventually arrived in Albany. After a couple of nights we moved on to Gregory National Park camping in a more organised camp ground at Limestone Gorge. Fantastic views from the top of the limestone escarpments made ... read more






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