Two weeks in Poland and life is good... Flying through the muddled clouds into Krakow, I picked out the lingering remnants of the communist era in the towering block apartments layering the soggy green countryside, an impression that only grew on the train ride into the city where we crawled past the dregs of crumbled industry long overtaken by a decade of weeds and graffiti. I arrived at the Krakow central train station early Wednesday morning to a biting cold rain carrying with me an anxious curiosity. First thing first. I needed a cell phone, so my initial rite of foreign travel was to do something uniquely American...visit a mall. Approximately thirty minutes and 150 Zloty later I emerged from the horrid galleria cell phone in tow, wearing my bright yellow rain jacket, hat, gloves,
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