Day 4 Bagarchap - Chame (2670m) 13km Early morning call from Gompa


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May 16th 2010
Published: June 5th 2010
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Gompa at BagarchapGompa at BagarchapGompa at Bagarchap

The 0330 villain..
I slept well last night despite the 0330 wake up call from the Gompa (Buddhist temple) on the hill where the monks carried out a ceremony in the middle of the night involving a tanoy musical broadcast of the Buddhist anthem followed by a horn blowing performance. Bewfore setting off this morning we visited the Gompa where maybe a dozen monks were inside spinning prayer wheels and studying. We also saw the memorial to the British trekker who died in the 1995 landslide at Bagarchap which killed 11 villagers and 9 trekkers.

Today we passed through connifer woodland and reached the largest town since Besisahar, Chame after a 530m climb. Overlooking Chame is Annapurna II which looked splendid approaching the town. Late afternoon has brought the usual cloud cover but we should wake up to a tremendous view in the morning. I have been eating non stop today, porridge, trekking bars, 2 packs of Bonbon biscuits, Tibetan bread, 2 servings of noodle soup and I will of course be indulging in Dal Baht later tonight. This mountain trekking requires serious calories.

Darren spotted a tiny teahouse this evening, we asked the lady if we could come in for Nepali
Bagarchap memorial Bagarchap memorial Bagarchap memorial

The 1995 landslide here killed 20 people
tea and she was pleased to welcome us in. Whilst we have been staying in larger guesthouse style acomodation up until now this was a tiny wooden shack with a fire roaring inside and a woman cooking over it. In the photo you'll notice things hanging above the stove on a line. That's yak meat. Chickens are roaming in and out and the chicken delivery man popped in while we were there, weighed a chicken for her and a deal appeared to be done, amazing!

An early night is planned for tonight (again!) as it's an 800m climb tommorow as we move on to Pisang 16km away and moving above 10,000ft for the first time.


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Teahouse in ChameTeahouse in Chame
Teahouse in Chame

I'm inside enjoying a Nepali tea - plenty of cinnamon.
Teahouse in ChameTeahouse in Chame
Teahouse in Chame

Our Nepali tea being prepared


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