Lobuje

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I was dreading the walk up the hill to Lobuje but actually it was fine. At the top is a series of monuments to the Sherpas who have died on Everest. One of them was Baba Chiri. He camped at the summit for 21 hours and ascended in record time, about 20 hours. Unfortunately he fell down a crevasse some time later and was killed. That's the sobering thing. We're meeting climbers a lot now. There's about 30 expeditions camped at Base Camp and you know they aren't all going to make it. 1 in 7 summiters die.

The sky was effortlessly, deeply blue and prayer flags fluttered from the white stupas and rock piles. The mountains are incredibly quite. I don't think I've experienced silence like it before, broken only by the cry of a crow (Gorak) or yak bells.

We got in quite a good lodge and we're resting this afternoon anticipating a tough day tomorrow. We get up early and walk to Gorak Shep (Gorak is Nepali for crow - brilliant word don't you think?) We have lunch and then walk to Base Camp and back - about a 5/6 hour round trip. I can't believe it, tomorrow I'm going to see Everest base Camp - all the struggle and cold and exhaustion - THIS is what it has all been about.

I feel as if I will never take anything for granted again, cleanliness, baths, warmth, food, the comforts of Western life. Well I probably will, but this whole experience will certainly stay with me for the rest of my life. Physical fitness has been the least difficult thing, the walking is easy - it's the willpower and mental stamina that's been the vital thing on this trek.

I leap ahead however. I haven't got there yet. Loads of climbers staying in this lodge, Mountain Madness and Adventure Consultants. Also, a team from the London Business School. They're put together a shoestring expedition and I have to be honest - they just don't look up to it. The other climbers all look really fit and big and ready for it but these guys just look like students. The other climbers have all got big warm tents with DVD players and heaters and realy luxury but the London Business School guys just don't seem to have much at all. I applaud the spirit with which they're doing it. I just hope they'll be OK though.

Tomorrow Everest base camp!

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