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Published: April 18th 2009
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Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)
Looks orderly and posh from this view in a local city garden. Vietnam - a crazy history and a sturdy people
I was intrigued when I read about the history of Vietnam. I always thought it was just one more of the S E Asian countries like Malaysia and Thailand - but when I read about it I realised it is a totally different story altogether.
First of all
I am amazed by the impunity with which almost every culture has tried its hand at getting control of Vietnam. French, Japanese, British, American ...
It is a land which in ancient times was invaded by the Chinese, and till date,
Vietnamese view Chinese with suspicion and I suspect, dislike.
Subsequently the
French rule over Vietnam didn't help much, other than the fact that today some of the
best baguettes (a soft bun)are available for a ridiculously small amount anywhere on any remote island even.
When the Viet people managed to
defeat the French, the
Viet people themselves were fighting their war for power. And the
Americans decided that its better to create more war than to let the communist regime come to power. Very interfering and overbearing. Very destructive and sad.
Unlike the Malays who I find
Kitschy art at this local cafe!
I found this small cafe playing Hotel California and other hard rock in vietnamese language. After wandering in I discovered a whole lot of unique art! very timid and docile, I found the Viet very strong.
I felt that they are a people who cannot be suppressed by any military aggression. They have fought and driven away so many invaders and aggressors, it is amazing there are any people left at all after all the fighting. I feel that the Viets have been a hardy race, with a never say die attitude.
What surprised me today is that the
lure of the lucre has made the Americans, Japanese and the Brits quite adored - the tourist dollars continue to make life more pleasant for many in the travel, hotel, food and other businesses. The attitude towards white tourists, which is quite prevalent in Thailand, Malaysia etc is seen here too - obseqious and fawning.
How much is the
graciousness one reads about :
"The Americans are not bad - they were forced to fight by their commanders, That is why we welcome them today and do not hate them" - and how much
is the good old adorable dollar having its way - is anyone's guess.
I do make it a point to
search for bookshops in any place I visit - and
The same cafe in the back packers
This cafe was just 5-10 min walk from madam Cuc's 124 at Pham Ngu Lao. visiting
Fahasa bookshop (recommended by Lonely Planet) in Ho Chi Minh City left me disappointed - for 2 reasons - there are hardly any English books - and even within the ones that are there, the collection is a highly "popular" one - cookery books, interior design and pulp fiction, or kid's books. The literature on Vietnamese life and war - is vast - and I was craving to read some of it while I was there. But there was nothing I could pick up.
However, the
News and Books stores at Bangkok airport revealed a few surprises -
I found the book "The Girl in the Picture" (amongst some other great socio - political books) which is a true life story of Kim Phuc - a 9 year old girl who was burned in the Agent Orange attacks (napalm attacks) by the Americans near Ho Chi Minh City - and through her life struggle, the author has so beautifully brought out the simplicity of the people and their life before the American interference. The village life, the aspirations of the poor families, their traditions, religions; as well as the travails of a girl who was not from a
Looking out to a less hip joint across the road
This joint had hip magazines, hard rock music, kitschy art, and a unique ambience. Across the road was a more traditional cafe for some "bia hoi". communist family and what they went through when the communist government came into power -
its an absolutely un-putdownable book. Read it - buy it - borrow it - I would recommend it. Just to get a glimpse of life before, during and after the years of war.
After years of war between the communist forces and the government in power - and the subsequent win of the communist forces - one expected to find a very prosperous, happy, community based on a communist philosophy. However,
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) was a bustling capitalistic, city of typical urban development with typical issues of poor migrant labour, unemployment, unplanned growth and an overriding commercial drive.
I really was not able to fathom Vietnam - and with hardly any english speaking people I did not make much progress. What I did see was a
great airport, good roads, and good telephone networks, and electricity even in smaller villages.
I was also pleased to see the
Govt rule which says that
any man booking a hotel room with a lady has to show his marriage certificate! Atleast the
govt is taking a clear stand on prostitution - which is
Crowded streets
Everyone seems to be selling or buying something. much more than what Thailand has done. Atleast here you do not see 60-plus aged pot-bellied white tourists
haggling over the 5 USD rate being asked for by the tout for the 14 year old girl. This aspect of Thailand, which left me totally sad for so many days after my visit there, is thankfully much lesser here in Vietnam.
The
few million two-wheelers are to be seen to be believed. The city is like a
sea of scooters, they come and go and stop in waves. They are not individual vehicles, but actually like a
wave of the sea - too huge and powerful to be contained by any man made devices. Too scary even - just watching traffic hour on some roads, and watching traffic spill over onto the footpath, and see it surging ahead slowly and steadily, impatiently and aggressively, unruly and swaying - its a new kind of a "natural force" which leaves you over awed.
The coffee, by the way, is unlike any coffee I have ever had, took me some time to get used to it, and then I started loving it. Try it. Iced or hot. Sweet or plain. Its underrated
Move out! The wave starts!
This is a machine-human-wave of the unstoppable "sea" of scooters! Watch and you will feel giddy after a while. - and could do with more publicity in the world. Its the best. Go to a local food shop or supermarket and bring some back home.
And the fresh sugarcane juice is to die for. And the steamed bamboo fish which you wrap in rice paper and eat. Lovely!
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