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Published: December 26th 2015
Continental-Terrace
as it looked in the 1950sI first read
The Quiet American by Graham Greene in 1971. The war in Vietnam was raging, and the situations described in the book seemed to be ripped from the headlines. And then I got to the end of the novel and found to my great surprise that Greene had started writing it in 1953. It was published in 1955. Depending on which “official” timeline you follow, US involvement in Vietnam didn’t start until 1961. Or maybe it was 1960, or 1956, take your pick.
Ostensibly it’s about the rivalry between a world-weary, rather cynical English journalist and a young, idealistic American who were vying for the affection of a young Vietnamese woman. However, the political situation, and American involvement in it, is very much a part of the story.
Graham Greene the novelist bears more than a passing resemblance to Thomas Fowler the character in the book. Both were rather cynical English journalists stationed in Saigon. Both had wives back in England and a mistress in Saigon, both drank a bit too much and smoked opium.
One of the main reasons I came to Vietnam was to visit the places mentioned in the book, and to try
to get a feel for the Saigon of the novel. Yeah, I know, a strange way to plan your travel itinerary, but I can think of worse ways to plan a trip.
Hotel Continental
The Hotel Continental figures prominently in the novel as the place where Fowler and Pyle first meet. The hotel was an important touchstone in Graham Greene’s life as well. He lived for a while in Room 214, and wrote much of the book there. Built in 1880, the exterior of the place hasn’t changed much, though the sidewalk café has disappeared.
Givral Cafe Givral’s was on the opposite corner from the Hotel Continental, and was the place where Phuong would take her morning refreshment. Fowler had quietly warned Phuong not to visit the milk bar at the time the bicycle bombs were set to detonate.
The building has been torn down and a modern shopping mall put in its place. To the credit of the developers, they designed the exterior to blend in with the other nineteenth century buildings in the area. The café has re-opened north of the Reunification Palace on Vo Van Tan.
Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon The French brought Catholicism to Vietnam, and this cathedral is a notable example. Completed in 1880, the church hasn’t changed much. This is just up the street from the Hotel Continental, and, as a lapsed Catholic, Greene did not think kindly of the church in Vietnam. In the novel Greene refers to it as “the hideous pink cathedral.” Even though the country was 90 percent Buddhist, Catholics held the important government and military positions, and some bishops even ran their own private armies.
The Majestic Hotel On the banks of the Saigon River, Greene lived here for a time. In the novel it serves as the place Pyle would ask Fowler and Phuong to meet if it were a purely social visit. The Majestic still stands as a high-end European hotel.
Grand Hotel Just up the street from the Majestic is where Pyle’s apartment was located, though the building has been replaced by the Grand Hotel. This is now an upscale hotel.
Opium Street Both the Majestic and the Grand Hotels are on the street Greene knew as Rue Catinat, and
Givral Cafe
Givral Cafe as it looked in the 1950s Americans knew as Tu Do. Today it is called Dong Khoi, and bisecting it is the street now known as Mac Thi Buoi. In Greene’s day it was the Rue d’Ormay, and the location of “a good house” where Fowler – and Greene – got their opium.
Saigon River
The Saigon River stills flows on its muddy way. But the Quai Mytho where Fowler worked his deals to bring in the materials for bicycle bombs has disappeared, though there are a number of more modern docks and warehouses.
The American Legation The American Legation mentioned in the book was in a building that still exists today, but as a bank. The American Legation was elevated to embassy status, but after a car bombing in 1965 was moved to a location next to the French Embassy and across the street from the British Embassy.
Possibly useful information: The Quiet American, Graham Greene, 1955. The book is still in print, and readily available in several different editions. It’s fairly short; it can be read in a long afternoon. Considering it stuck with me for about 45 years, I certainly consider
it to be a classic. Besides, it’s about love, intrigue, and opium. What more do you need?
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nancic123
Nanci and David Curry
One of our favorites...
We loved the movie and had fantasies of the big bombing scene while we were having lunch at the Continental. It's one of my favorite memories from Vietnam. I don't think there is anything more fun than "following" a good book around a city. We have followed Hemingway around several cities and recently toured Dublin with James Joyce. It makes history so much more interesting. Excellent blog and we loved the old pictures!