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Published: October 29th 2006
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Red sky at night
Hoi An looks even more beautiful as night falls Arrival in Hoi An was easy, our hotel pick up was waiting as promised and upon checking in we were offered a room on the top floor with private balcony and TV for 4quid which we quickly accepted before settling into home number 22 of the trip, Hop Yen Guesthouse.
We had read many good things about Hoi An Old Town and after a 5 minute walk from the hotel the road narrowed to an alley and in a matter of steps we were transported back in time to ancient Vietnam. The atmosphere is wonderful with narrow unlit streets, no cars, quaint restaurants and chilled out bars.
It couldn't be any less like Hanoi and is much more like Venice, so much so that we jump straight into a gondola style boat and let a 100 year old woman push us up and down the canal to give us a great view of the waterfront - a great introduction to this beautiful town.
Unesco protects the whole of old Hoi An and has selected certain buildings to be visited only by buying a three quid, access all areas ticket. Based on the fact that the whole place feels like a
Venice or Vietnam ??
The water front and Japanese covered bridge in Hoi An museum and that we have seen more temples than even most monks will see in one lifetime we decide to give it a miss just taking in the 17th century Japanese covered bridge, which is free, and sneak into a traditional family home by pretending to know the Thai family that walks in ahead of us (I later realise I had been talking to them in Laos). To further add to the atmosphere they block the roads to all motorised traffic at seemingly random times and then pipe traditional Vietnamese music through the speakers on the streetlamps - bizarre but lovely and we both really start to get lost in the place.
But Hoi An has one more trick up its sleeve and after 7 weeks, 4 countries, 13 destinations and a 4km bike ride out of town we arrive at our first beach since we left the UK. It's great, almost deserted apart from the hundreds of women trying to sell you massages and pineapples (there probably are only about 10 of them but they all look the same and are very persistant). The sea is as warm as bath water and the breeze cooling and we spend
7am at My Son Cham ruins
The photo flatters the place, but it did fell pretty eiry at this time all of day 2 sunbathing, swimming in the sea and eating local seafood before heading back into town to skype both sets of parents (who are currently together in France) finishing off a great day by meeting up with a Danish girl from the Halong Bay trip and drinking 2 for 1 Mojitoes in a cool little bar on the waterfront....it's a hard life!
Day 3 begins at 5am and a taxi ride to the 4th century ruins at My Son about 40km out of Hoi An and if you are reading this and planning a trip to Hoi An, DO NOT DO THIS!!!, especially if like me doing anything before 10am is a chore. Basically they are not worth it! OK they are 2000 years old but they have crumbled beyond any beauty and with Angkor Wat and Machu Pichu to look forward to we wished we hadn't bothered getting here so early, if at all. It's meant to be more spectacular at day break and no-one else is there - except the ever present German tourist - but honestly don't bother.
The weather turns for our remaining two days making us glad we arrived when we
Dont shoot !!
Just one of constant reminders of Vietnams violent past did, but hotter weather beckons at our next stop south, in Nha Trang - Vietnam's main beach resort, so we are not too concerned and spend the days biking around the Old Town (the best way to travel in Hoi An) eating some great food including a red snapper which still has the hook in its mouth and a local speciality called Cau Lau which can only be found here as the water used comes from the lake in the centre of town.
Hoi An has by far been our best stop in Vietnam and will take some beating from our remaining stops throughout the country - a country which is starting to grow on us since we have left Hanoi but still expresses an animosity to all 'tay' or westeners, which is understandable but still hard to deal with when everybody either sees
you as an easy dollar or simply doesn't like you!!
A fact that is undeniable when we eventually find a friendly English speaking waitress who translates a hand signal a 5 year old kid had flashed us as we walked past him earlier that day...."Ah! that very bad" she apologises "that mean he call
This is the life !!!
Sun, Sea, Sand and a Saigon beer ! you a ladies private parts".
laters
MandC
ps check out the 'from dusk till dawn' blog as i have finally updated with some more sunsets !!
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chris
non-member comment
You should of bought a pineapple from them and then asked them to massage it for you. I hope you saw that kid again and shouted TOILET!!!! at him. ps Della's new name is Della-Mitri!