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Published: November 18th 2009
HI Again!
Here's the first report from Vietnam
I had expected to have the most glowing report of Hanoi and Halong Bay but.....life is about expectations...and maybe my expectations were too high...
But to be honest....weather also was a big contributor to my less than excited review so far!
But first about the Title....well the currency here is the Dong. And there are 18,000 Dong to the US Dollar!,.....so I've given my first 100,000 tip and made my first 2,000,000 ATM withdrawl here in Hanoi....feeling like quite the big spender!,....:-)
It was supposed to be late summer and a great time to visit Vietnam...especially the north where I am now. However, seems a storm centre from China decided to descend into Vietnam just before I arrived so I've had 2 days in Hanoi with highs of 15 lows of 10....and very overcast/drizzly which doesn't do wonders for any city...nor for photography!
The arrival in Hanoi by air is a bit of a crap shoot as I had read in the guidebooks that there were many scams involving tourists at the airport. Some just involved off market exchange rates but the more problematic ones involved taxis taking you either to the middle of nowhere and robbing you or taking you to a fake hotel which sounded and looked like yours and then charging you an exorbitant fee for the taxi ride and the hotel....at risk of physical violence.
I was no more put at ease when I landed and before I had even got to the Customs Immigration or Passport Control I was handed a piece of paper from the Government warning of the scams. It suggested that you contact the airport personnel on the first floor after getting your bags...well of course....if there were any...they sure werent' marked...and when I went to the offical Tourist Bureau and they tried to convince me that i should pay double what I thought I should pay for a taxi "just to be sure"!. So who was scamming and who was government and?.....a bit confusing to say the least!
As it turned out I got a taxi...the guy was great...it took us an hour and a half to get into town (about 20 kms) due to lots of motorcycles and cars and bikes and people on the narrow road and also apparently an accident or two....which is not surprising when you get to know Hanoi traffic!
Further, the 2 things I'd been looking forward to doing while here were seriously affected by the weather....going to Sapa to climb the highest mountain in Vietnam....just over 10,000 feet and crusing the UNESCO site Halong Bay. I'd decided to do the Sapa trip first but was actually advised by the tourist agency after speaking with their Sapa rep that I not go due to misty foggy conditions which would result in a very muddy climb and nothing to see once at the top!....Well in Vietnam if anyone actually tells you to not do something that results in your not spending money....then you absolutely listen to them!....
So I decided I'd head out to Halong Bay and do 2 nights on a junk with some kayaking thrown in. Well the weather got even colder and these boats are clearly not made for cold weather. Thankfully I had my Nepal cold weather clothing for the most part as I thought I'd be climbing in Sapa so I survived but others suffered as the nights got down to 10 degrees! That having been said we have a great group of 11 - a French couple who worked for P and G....a Chilean couple from Santiago who had just finished school in London Eng...an Irish guy,,,,English guy....Czech woman,,...Dutch guy and an Aussie couple...great fun and we made the best of a bad situation...we still did some kayaking and went to visit some great caves....the scenery is stunning even without the sun....and we visited a floating village....a full 2 days with great food and a great boat as well. Fond memories of Halong Bay!
Halong Bay is a real tourist area and you have to be prepared for the up to 500 junks that sail the waters and many of which anchor in the same area at night. It's a beautiful view with all the junks lit up but if you're looking for the solitude this is not the place! On the second day we managed to get away from all the other junks and found some great spots to kayak and for those interested rock climb. I was amazed by the number of small aquaculture operations in Halong Bay.....mussels, clams and many different types of fish. None much large that 20 by 20 metres and always guarded by at least 2 dogs...."in case the neighbours come over and try and steal some!" was the explanation.
Hanoi is motorcycle central...i've NEVER seen so many and it is truly hard to cross the road as either the lights don't work or are ignored. Your gradually get up your nerve and effectively weave between the traffic and they weave around you.
Hanoi is a real mix of areas. I've stayed in the Old City which is small crooked streets and amazing traffic jams and shops everywhere and people doing business primarily on the sidewalks....from hair salons to tire sales and everything in between. Further, there are areas of huge wealth, embassies, broad tree lined avenues...and other areas where the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum and museum are located which as so spacious and outrageous they are in sharp contrast to the Old City.
That having been said I would said...unlike Nepal...there is no sense of ...nor have I seen any evidence of poverty here so far.
I"ve ended up at the Cinnamon Hotel as I said at the beginning which is a real find...well actually Lonely Planet found it...I'm just enjoying the fruits of their labour! The first place I stayed..the Hanoi Civility Hotel..I know the name's a bit odd....was highly recommended on websites...but very OK..the room was fine....large with flat screen TV even!...all for $20 but there was alot of kerfuffle from a variety of staff that seemed to be way more than needed and mostly related to the owner.....and they all watched the TV in the lobby at full volume...which of course...just necessitated them speaking even louder...and Vietnamese is already one of those languages which can sound pretty harsh and loud on it's own! Money missing from some Aussie guests did me in and hence the Cinnamon.
As for Vietnamese food.....they all eat on the streets at these little places on the sidewalk with little plastic tables and chairs.....soup for breakfast etc...I just haven't managed to get into the local food I must confess! I did find a great restaurant though and quickly met the owner who has given me some great tips about Vietnam..things to do and places to see etc. I did find myself thinking how Austin Taylor...my old VERY LARGE boss would ever have fared in Hanoi...at those little tables!
In addition, as I was sitting at the bar one night I struck up a conversation with a Scottish guy slightly older who it turns out has been working in Vietnam as a Power consultant to their largest power project. I told him if he was a real Scotsman he'd know the 2 incredibly tiny towns where my mom's parents were born..Innerleithen and Walkerburn...well wouldn't you know it...but he knew them well....had been there many times and his aunt had taught school there!....another 6 Degrees of Separation story!...ahhaha
I spent a day doing the "sights" in Hanoi but quickly discovered that they werent' all that compelling. I did like the Army Museum where the perfectly configured Mig 21 graces the outside of the Museum and in the back lot...are bits and pieces of various downed French and mostly American miliary equipment....hardly a commentary at all!..ahahh...Does remind one that we are in a Communist country still!
Even more amusing were the photographs of the American captives from the Vietnam War including John McCain and Pete Peterson enjoying Christmas cake around a tree with gifts and Christmas cards from home....or so the caption said! I must say that the Hanoi Hilton (so called) where they were kept has been considerably downsized and sanitized to the point where it was hardly reflective of what I can only imagine was a horrible existence for in some cases 6 or 7 years!
Hanoi is really growing rapidly and economically. The TV shows include some English shows so I could get caught up on the Amazing Race and even watch the Cavs and Suns in NBA action! And the cell phone stores are ALWAYS active...I walked into one and checked on the price on the iPhone...$800 US....it just highlights what is very obvious here...there are a certain number of people with ALOT of money ...and a far larger group with very little....though usually stilll with a TV. In fact, even the floating village in Halong Bay we were told the people have TV and cellphones. AS I mentioned the motorcycle traffic in Hanoi is insane and what really makes me laugh is they are often on their cellphones while driving.....some things are the same all over the world! Although I did have to do a double take this morning when I took a picture of a young woman rowing a very small rickety looking bamboo boat.....while talking on her cellphone! By contrast, power outages remind me of Kathmandu as we had one both days I've been in Hanoi.
When I got back tonight I hopped onto the internet and booked my $55 flight down to Da Nang and the town of Hoi An which sounds very laid back...and considerably warmer....and a place where I could significantly enhance my wardrobe at very reasonably prices...if only I was so inclined!...hahahh
Will update you on that and the $22/night Nhi Nhi hotel with pool !....next time I write!
Hope all are healthy and well!
J
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Diana Miotto
non-member comment
Jealous
Okay it doesn't sound like your staying at any Four Seasons, but it still beats sitting at my desk pushing stocks. I am so envious of your adventure. Stay healthy