I have a confession to make.
This is the longest I've ever traveled by myself, and definitely the longest I've ever backpacked by myself.
I am learning all sorts of things about solo travel and about myself, the primary one being that I don't think I like traveling alone.
Case Study:
Yesterday evening I began the journey back to Hanoi, which necessitates a
one-hour minibus trip through the mountains to Lao Cai, where the train station is.
When the minibus (basically a van) pulled up, it was almost completely full. The hotel called another minibus to take the group of foreigners, but since I was by myself they crammed me in
(against my will) with all the Vietnamese and their many many many many bags.
The next hour might have been really amusing if I'd had someone
to share it with and laugh about it with over a cold beer in Lao Cai.
The tiny child sitting in the seat in front of me alternated between playing "Let's-stare-at-the-funny-looking-foreigner" and "Let's-see-how-much-noise-I-can-make."
The man next to me, in a true testament to our driver's skill,
began throwing up into a plastic bag about 20 minutes
into the trip and did not stop.
At least two more people in the row in front of me picked up on the cue and started vomiting into their plastic bags. The older kids in the front seat thought it was funny and decided to make
gagging noises as a sort of joke.
So there I was, for a good 40 minutes, completely unable to enjoy the views and the ride because I was getting vomiting noises in
complete stereo surround sound, the breeze just wasn't clearing out the smell, and on top of that the child in the seat in front of me decided he wanted to keep trying to open my backpack.
A more acute form of torture there may be, but I've yet to experience it (airports come close).
When we arrived in Lao Cai, all I wanted was to get out, but two women were blocking my way since they were still throwing up. In the end I lost patience and
just stepped over them and probably on them in my haste to get away.
I had three hours before my train would leave. Lots of people had set up little
stands around the square in front of the train station, and if I'd had a companion it would have been great to sit out there in the "fresh" air, drink some bia hoi ("fresh beer") and laugh about all the puking. Instead I slinked off to a cafe and read a book until I figured I could bear to shoulder my backpack a bit longer and walk around.
The train was ok, until at 5:00 am (we arrived at about 5:45) everyone turned on their televisions at the
highest possible volume and let their kids run screaming up and down the train. I walked about 20 minutes through the 6:00 am heat (yes, it's already hot) with all my stuff, and found that damn near every hotel is closed, so here I am!
These are just some of the daily joys of travel that you usually don't hear about. Don't let it put you off too much. They will make great stories one day, but at the time they can be pretty trying. I guess I just wish I had someone to share both the good
and bad with.
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Part of trip:
Roving, Roving, Roving
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I'm still curious- how do you communicate? Do you just sound out the phrases out of your book or do you use English? I think I'm too intimidated by Asian cultures to even attempt to visit. Sad, but true. So bravo to you!
Amber - I won't deny it's been frustrating! Tonal languages and all - I just can't get them. I get by with English, a mix of pointing and waving and finger-thrusting (for numbers, you see), and sometimes all that just doesn't get the point across. I mean, how do you say "You liar, you told me 8 dollars and now you've changed your mind and are swearing on your mother's grave that you would never say 8 dollars but I know you did and your mother's probably cackling in her grave at how you're cheating the blue-eyed foreigner..." ???
Very familiar scene, but all voices in English... Ken and I were on a whale watching tour off the coast of Provincetown, Mass... we are out in choppy seas to see the whales on a large sight seeing boat with a snack bar - cooking up some kind of breakfast. They start handing out plastic bags and I think, oh how nice they are giving us trash bags to keep the boat clean. On cue, all these people start vomiting! I had no idea I would get sea sick until that smell hit the air with the greasy kitchen smell too. I made Ken walk me out and sit on the side of the boat but it was freezing! I never threw up but I really wanted too. Oh course someone walks by and makes some funny comment that was suppose to make us laugh and I may have bitten her head off! When we got back we found out we were the only boat to go out that day because seas were too choppy.
Oh no! That sounds miserable! I hope you at least saw some whales for your trouble!
It sounds like independent travel is a little like "childbirth". It is painful at moments when you are actually doing it, but it is wonderful to look back on and generally results in the "birth" of many new memories and stories. Like "childbirth" travel is more fun when you have someone to share it with. Those "Did you see that?" or "Can you believe this?" times are important. As Three Dog Night put it "One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do". But just think about the cocktail hour chatter that you have available! Love Mom
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