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Published: July 11th 2008
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Continuing down the cooridor, we spotted a building that said Passport check. Though the building was not gated in and we could have easily just walked into Vietnam into the parking lot, we decided to enter legally.
The customs officials were friendly and jovial and were laughing and asking for help with their English.
After entering the country, we hoped on the back of two motorbikes, driven by some kids, and drove the couple of km to Dong Dang, where we caught out minibus to Hanoi.
The bus was US$1.50, and took about 2 hours. We also got our first cup of coffee in about at least 4 days in Dong Dang. Delicious slowdrip sludge with condensed milk - on the rocks.
The drive to the capital was bumpy and chaotic as the driver swerved and passed everyone on the road, honking the whole way. Good thing he was a professional.
Arriving in Hanoi, we were ambushed by a swarm of bikers (motorbikers, unlike China) and froggered our way from hotel to hotel looking for a deal. We found a decent one with A/C and settled for 210,000 dongs a night ($12... expensive, but do-able). We
soon went to convert money and left the bank millionaires (see photos: 6,000,000+ dongs).
One day we splurged for $8 motorbike rentals (sorry Mom), and had to learn to ride them in downtown Hanoi. The fear of riding through Hanoi, until we were comfortable, riveled sky diving. It took about an hour, but we eventually got out of the city and drove along highway 1 into the patties. Destination: Ha Tay - Perfume Pagoda - 100km away. The ride lasted 3 hours, but the countryside streets were reletively empty, yet beautiful. We stopped about halfway and enjoyed fresh pressed sugarcane juice with the locals, as well as ate a roasted duck lunch with a traditional rice noodle dish (Ban Cuon).
We finally made it to the entrance to the Pagoda, where we were supposed to take a 1.5 hour paddle boat ride to the mountain. We got swindled, however, and got led to the wrong entrance by some locals. They told us they could take us to the temples, but after getting in the boat and left the shore, they told Marc that they were taking us illegally (not through the government issued way, which they are normally
Money
Money Money subsidized to do). Good thing Marc spoke Vietnamese. They said, since it was under the table, we would still go, but they would have to go the long way.
We "arrived" but soon found out it was the wrong temple. Marc argued with them about it, and they now said they would take us to the right place. We went down the river and after another 30 mins (it had already been an hour at this point), we discovered that we were only 10 mins up the river had we originally gone the right way, meaning still another hour on the boat. It was getting later, and we feared the place was closed, or soon would be, and we'd have to bike home in the dark.
An all out fight broke out as Marc said we were only going to pay them for the (beautiful) boat tour, but not the full amount of taking us to the temple. They were relentless until Marc called out the whole neighborhood and embarressed them and told them we were going to report them. They were embarressed, as they should have been, since they lied to our face, and grudgingly accepted the
So country
Along the way to Ha Tay 50,000 dong for the both of us ($2.5)... still a nice bonus for them. Before heading back, we filled our tanks ($1.5) and Marc jumped in the river with the local kids to cool off.
Riding back, the sun began to set. We booked it to Hanoi, making record time. The traffic picked up as rush hour set in, and we weaved through people, bikes, cars, trucks, water buffalo, horses, and swarms of dragonflies and gnats. About 15km for the city, rush hour was full on and the sun had set. It was too chaotic for us as it became more urban, and we stopped at a coffee shop - Trung Nguyen (marc's name) - until the traffic died down.
The next day, Jon got food poisoning - Vietnam Gut - and was out of commission for 24+ hours. Marc took care of him and explored Hanoi independently. This led to another day in Hanoi, and we missed the oppurtunity to buy train tickets, so we bought the cheapest plane ticket out of Hanoi to Danang, a beach town halfway down the coast on the South China Sea - a much needed R&R retreat.
Hanoi, population 3.4
million, was a bustling 3rd world metropolis, with food stands, exotic fruits, and coffee galore. A good experience, but we feel like it's time to spend more time outside the big cities.
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Mom
non-member comment
what a bike ride!!!!
HI Jon and Marc, I lvoe the blog pictures and the video was the best. YOu both look so great on that motorcycle I forgot to be scared and it actually looked like fun. LOVE YOU BOTH, Mom