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Published: January 9th 2009
Just got back from an absolutely breathtaking few days on Halong Bay. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's just like the pictures promise... Thousands and thousands of limestone islands that jut straight up into the air. Apparently, they're very similar to those on the Adaman coast of Thailand. The call it 'where the dragon meets the sea.'
Left Hanoi early Tuesday morning to go to Halong City by bus. There are 5 zillion tour companies offering this type of cruise, but they're not all the 'same same.' I've heard some horror stories about being put on crappy rooms in the bottom of an old boat that looks nothing like the photos at the travel agencies. I've heard stories about getting smoked out by diesel fumes and rotting fish and eating only eggs for 3 meals. So, I decided to pay the extra money and go for a good one with a reputable Australian company... called Kangaroo Tours. If I've learned anything on this trip, it is that it's most definately worth it to pay extra to a. get off the beaten track and b. get what you pay for. Budget is not always better.
We arrive at the port and I see some of the crappy boats -- and am thankful I went for the pricier one. Some tours crammed 40 people on a very small boat. Ours was massive. There were only 13 of us, our guide (Tuan, who could speak english!!! another bonus!) and 2 crew members and a cook. The boat was this great big old fashioned wooden junk... with air conditioned rooms, each with its own bathroom, mahogany floors, a huge dining area (with white table cloths) and a gorgeous upper deck for sunbathing...and jumping off of for swimming!
The food was excellent (yay fresh seafood!), the views, spectacular (or SENSATIONAL as the Kiwis say) and the group was great. I've really lucked out -- you can get on these things and hate everyone. But we had super people... My two Aussie friends, 2 Kiwis I met in Dalat, 3 Irish guys who were hillarious -- they're traveling for a year and spent the majority of their funds in the first week by staying at the Hanoi Hilton... taking pics of themselves in white bathrobes! Also, there was one German, a Swedish couple, an English bloke and an American. Once again, I am the lone Canadian. They love to make fun of the way I say Nova Scotia. Apparently, that's funny...???
So, we spent three days cruising around these amazing islands, exploring natural caves (some used as hideouts during the war), swimming and eating. I wanted to kayak, but... I looked at the price and the condition of the gear... and realized I have the best paddling opportunities at home anyway...and took a pass.
My best night was the one where we cruised around under the full moon. This is my second full moon in South East Asia. It was incredible. It was so peaceful to be out there away from the horns and the motorbikes and the constant street vendors asking me to buy stuff. I just sat there and thought of you all as I sipped my Dalat red wine. Perfect.
We visited the only island that is developed -- Cat Ba Island. It was a bit like Disney. Not sure why, but Vietnam loves kitch. Apparently flashing christmas lights is classy. Who knew!?
Got back to noisy noisy chaotic Hanoi last night... and was glad I was soon leaving. It's okay -- really just another city. Reminds me of Paris tho. Great cafes...Short buildings with similar architecture. Menus consist of Vietnamese and French cuisine. I had creme caramel with my 'bun' (Vietnamese noodles with sprouts and beef, southern style) for dinner the other night. Found another restaraunt that doubles as a training school for disadvantaged teenagers. Teaches them how to cook and work in the hospitality industry and gets them off the streets. It was first rate. These places have been the best places I've eaten in Vietnam. I don't mind spending the extra DONG if it's going to a good cause.
But Hanoi is hardly geared to tourism -- at least the backpacker type tourism -- and the attitude to Westerners is much different than in the south. The best thing about this city has been the lovely french cafes, the pain au chocolat and the fact that it revolves around a lake. (Oh, and that we found a way to sneak into the nicest hotel in town to use the rooftop pool!)
So...who plays BINGO in Vietnam?
I DO!
The craziest situations just seem to fall into your (my) lap when travelling. Before our boat trip to Halong Bay, Dale (Aussie guy) went out by himself one night to get some air. He stumbled upon a pub down some dark alley... okay, so the rugby songs lured him in. That's where he found a bar full of drunken ex pat Aussie footy (rugby) players who just finished a game. The next thing he knows, it's 5 am and he's partied with them all night -- on the Australian government's dime! Apparently some head hauncho (he tells me the Aussie version of the CIA) is in town for some conference and ran into the rugby blokes as well, and told the bar tender to charge it to him!
Anyway, one thing led to another and the next thing we know, we get an invitation to some fancy schmancy fundraiser for the rugby team at the Sofitel Plaza hotel. And this wasn't just any kind of dinner dance fundraiser. It was BINGO. Yup. I played BINGO in Vietnam last night. Nanny Phelan, eat your heart out! Unfortunately, I didn't win. But it was a good time...
And on that note, after 3 incredible weeks in Vietnam, I flew to Vientiane (capital of Laos) this morning. I am meeting a English guy who I met in Nha Trang this afternoon, and we'll see what happens from there. It feels good to be here already. It's much more laid back, much slower pace. Much like Cambodia... but not as intense. It's raining and I'm muddy. And I don't care. I don't hear any horns and no one is asking me if I want to go on a moto. I am going to adopt the Laos mantra... and take it easy. I realized I've been on the go go go go go for weeks and I was getting tired. So, hello hammock!
Points of interest: It's taken me this long to realize that it's worth paying an extra 2 dollars for air conditioning in my room... I've not had a full night's sleep since I've been away because of the heat. I got an AC room by accident the other night... and it was divine. My 'basic backpacker' style of travel is slowly... moving up. Heh heh...
No ditch pig sightings in a week. 😊
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Helen
non-member comment
Yep.....I knoiw what you mean re "the way we say NS" or anything else depending on who you are talking to, or where you are. There was a hospital I worked at in Atlanta for a while where the staff would literally pull me aside and get me to say certain words. House , south and boat were very popular. You still have us captured with your journey Kelly. Nice to hear you are resting and feeling comfortable at present. Take very good care. Love Helen & John