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So apparently I managed to sleep though a massive thunderstorm during our final night in Hanoi. We had to be up at 6 to make it to the airport for our 9am flight down to Hue (pronounced hway) so I’m pleased I got so much sleep in! I then also managed to fall asleep on the plane while we were still sat on the runway and not wake up until we began our decent into Hue! We found our way to the bus into town by following a couple of Canadians and were told that the driver would drop us at our hotel. On the drive in we passed about 7 or 8 wedding parties being held along the street. We later found out that because of the time of the lunar month it’s meant to be very lucky to get married and so a lot of young couples were getting married.
As we didn’t actually have a hotel booked so asked to be dropped by one that our rough guide recommended. When the bus stopped we asked where we were and the driver pointed to an area on the complete opposite side of town to where we
wanted to be. We tried to explain the driver we needed to be on the other side of town but he wasn’t having any of it and ushered us off the bus.
Pulling our bags onto our backs in the midday sun we fended off several xe om (motorbike taxi) drivers who kept hasstling us for business. Pretending like we knew exactly where we were we marched off down the road and after less than a minute later stumbled across another hotel (The Orchid) that was recommended in our book purely by accident! So it all turned out pretty good as this was a better location and still very cheap. The staff were all extremely polite (as they all are in vietnam) and after checking in and downing some free fruit juice we headed out into the 40 degree heat of the old imperial city of Hue.
The first important thing however was getting some food which we did in the DMZ bar before setting off alongside the Perfume River to the Citadel. Now I know things always look a lot smaller on a map and perhaps it was the punishing heat but it
was a loooong walk. After making it across the river and inside the moated, citadel walls we took shelter under the shade while checking out the impressive sacred cannons. The huge Vietnamese flag waving in the wind on top of the flag tower made for an impressive backdrop also. After we were laughed at by some Vietnamese ladies for looking so hot we made our way into the Imperial city.
The Imperial City lies behing a second moat and set of defensive walls and the Emperor of the dynasty and his associated family and dignitaries. Due to the wars waged through the 60’s and 70’s only 20 of the original 148 buildings remain standing and restoration efforts are on-going. As you walk around you can still see the bullet holes scattered about the walls as a reminder of events that took place here. Having seen some impressive temples and monuments during our time in Thailand we weren’t perhaps as wow-ed as we might have been. Although that’s not to say that the architecture and grounds aren’t impressive. We meandered through the grounds for a couple of hours taking in the architecture and grounds, while also making the
most of the peace and quiet as the defensive walls blocked out the contstant hum of traffic and beeping horns.
Feeling like we’d seen enough we walked back to the gates only to find out we had to exit on the east gate (where we’d just come from). So after walking all the way back to get out, we then walked the same strech again only on the outside to find our way back to the main road.
The heat was now taking it’s toll on us (as well as the flip flops on our feet from so much walking) so it was beer o’clock for some well needed refreshments. Our plan after that was to head back to the hotel and cool off for a bit before renting a bike to head over and see Tu Duc’s tomb.
Unfortunately when we came back out of the hotel it began to tip it down with rain so that put paid to our bike ride! We took shelter in a restaurant for some food for some fried noodles and waited for a break in the weather. It eventually eased before returning with
avengance so we took shelter in a bar and had some more cheap local beer to pass the evening.
After reading quite a lot about Hue my expectations were of a more traditional feel. South of the Perfume River is taken up with your standard city sprawl with shops, high rises, houses etc and felt much like a normal, busy Vietnamese city. The citadel was a good experience but did quite have the wow factor of some others. Perhaps because the rain put paid to us getting out and exploring more and our short stay didn’t give us the chance to take more in. I’d say just come and judge for yourself!
We planned on taking the train down to Hoi An but we were able to book a group minibus ticket down via our hotel for only $15! After collecting the rest of our group from their hotels we headed off to Hoi An. The good thing about the tour was that we did a few stops along the way which took us past Cau Hai lagoon and Hai Van pass (you might recognise this from the Top Gear Vietnam episode). From the
top of the pass we could see some American and French bunkers. This point is known as the border between North and South Vietnam and gives some spectacular views.
We passed through Da Nang and saw people competing in an Iron Man competition – absolutely mental in the heat!! We had the oblogatory stop off at a local merchants marble shop trying to sell us stuff before heading up marble mountain to see the pagoda, buddah statue and charm temple which is still used today. It was a really nice spot, although slightly spoiled by the huge lift they’ve built up the side so you don’t have to take the stairs!!
We finally made it to our hotel in Hoi An and headed out into the town. We thought we were being fleeced for tickets but it turns out you need a ticket to enter the old town and various sites around the town. Hoi An is a much more traditional and old town, a much slower pace and a relaxed feel. The architecture is very much more traditional and it’s setting along the river is really nice. We wandered around before grabbing some
lunch. I went for the standard fried noodles and veggie spring rolls. I’ve learnt the vietnamese phase "an chigh" which means no animal products or basically – as the buddhists eat. Otherwise the vietnamese assume because you don’t eat meat that you’re on a diet (clearly they don’t know how much I eat for lunch)! Kim on the other hand went for the traditional Vietnamese dish of…. Pizza. After a 30 minute wait for Kim’s food a young guy arrived on a moped with what looked suspiciously like a pizza delivery bag. And yes, it turns out they ordered in a pizza for Kim!
One of the main things Hoi An is know for are tailors. They’re everywhere! You can get custom made clothing in less than 24 hours if needed. Because there are so many and people are vying for your business I checked a few recommendations out and came across one called Be Be. After checking out what their work was like I decided to take the plunge, picked my fabric and got measured up for a suit, waistcoat and shirt. All for less than £100! I have to go back tomorrow evening to check
the fit so hopefully it’s good!
We walked back along the river and took a look at the Japense covered bridge. This was built by the Japenese in the 18
th century to trade with the locals it’s Hoi An’s famouse landmark. A little further along we saw the peacful site of Phung Hung house before deciding to head back to the hotel to relax for a bit.
So this brings us right up to now! After a quick swim in the pool I’m typing this blog while Kim is off having a cheap treatment in the spa! We’re heading off out into Hoi An soon to see the town at night. Until next time…..
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