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A message for Mouton: the last picture on this blog is of a snake - you might want to miss that one out!
Day 102
Up at (what felt like) the crack of dawn we packed and were off to the travel agent fully laden to leave Saigon bound for the Mekong Delta for a couple of days and ultimately finishing our tour in Cambodia. Before we set off, we bought a really cheap (possibly copied) version of the Lonely Planet for Laos and filled up on our final cheap Saigon cheese baguette!
We got on the bus and a couple of hours later we arrived at My Tho where we boarded our boat which sported a painted pair of eyes on the bow. We were later told by our guide that all of the boats that sailed on the river system had a pair and they were to scare off the numerous monsters that were known to frequent the waters. Safe in the knowledge that we were protected from any stray monsters, we headed across the northern of the delta's two main rivers before transferring to a smaller boat destined for a Coconut Candy factory (a
local delicacy). It was really nice to see a successful cottage industry hard at work with the added bonus that the sweets were amazing (even though neither of us really like coconut, as anyone who's seen our faces when we try to drink Malibu will vouch for - weird).
After watching the process and especially amazed at how quickly the local women wrapped the sweets we bought two sizable packs. Waiting for the boat a local kid came out with a huge snake and offered the group the chance to hold it, not being a big fan of snakes Mark watched as some of the others held it for the obligatory picture. Plucking up his 'mouse like' courage when it comes to snakes Mark decided to have a go! Putting the snake around Mark's shoulders the boy thought it would be a good time to start flicking a coin around and not look as though he was ever going to take it back again - Mark was not amused. Eventually, able to hand it back with a huge sigh of relief, we were ushered to the boats where we taken for lunch.
After lunch we were taken to
some even smaller boats where we were rowed up a smaller branch of the delta and dropped off at a honey farm. We were treated to some local fruit washed down with some honey tea and honey wine. Whilst tucking into our feast, we were entertained by some local musicians and singers (including one of our guides) which amused us even if it wasn't very tuneful.
Back to My Tho we got back on the bus for Can Tho city, further south in Mekong Delta territory. We had splashed out a massive 2 pounds 50 each to stay at a home stay on the river rather than the basic hotel that was standard on the tour and when we arrived we were met by our host's son. Arranging a white knuckle moto ride for Jenny, Tammy (our fellow homestayers) and us we sped toward our beds in the dark. Halfway there we stopped and picked up a boat that also sped down the river in the dark stopping to point out the trees filled with fire flies - they were amazing and looked just like they had been filled with xmas lights. This journey had made it well worth
the extra 2.50 already!
We arrived at our bungalow right on the riverfront, wood-framed buildings with the walls made from woven palm leaves. Dumping pur bags we had been cooked a traditional meal (including elephant ear fish) which we socially washed down with a couple of local lagers.
After dinner our host invited Mark into the kitchen where he showed him a boiling pot on the stove filled with vegetables, a stock and 10 baby water snakes! He chopped off a section of snake and presented it to Mark for tasting. We both had a taste and it was delicious (quite fishy)
After a couple more beers and chatting for a couple of hours we rolled into bed.
The homestay was not as we expected, but we had a great stay and were really glad we had gone for that additional option.
Day 103
We woke early to the cockerel crowing and boats motoring past the front of our bungalow, early means early - about 4.30am! We had to get up to be at breakfast for 6.30 anyway so it wasn't too bad but we were wondering where our relaxing holiday had gone!
We ate breakfast in the courtyard and then boarded our boat for the morning. We returned to Can Tho City to pick up the rest of our group and then spent the next hour or so chugging around the floating market. This was a fantastic experience as it really is a local affiar and nothing to do with tourism so you get a look at real life in the Mekong. The floating markets started out due to a loop in the tax law, any money made from goods sold on land was taxed so they moved the markets to the waterways. Nowadays this loophole has been closed but the tax is still lower than on the land so the markets continue. Early in the day the farmers take their goods to the selling boats who buy what they require. They then sell on the goods to buyers flitting between the boats on small motor boats or row boats. Selling boats display what they sell by hanging a sample of their wares on a bamboo pole, so you may see a pumpkin hanging 10feet above the boat. This helps the buyers to find what they need - kind of like the
aisle signs in Tesco really!
After the floating market we went to visit a rice noodle 'factory'. The factories along the Mekong are very rustic affairs with mud floors and only a roof to cover any machinery used.
Following this we got back into our boat to head towards a small village. On the way we were caught in a torrential rainstorm with the thunder rolling overhead. The rain did slow but it continued to drizzle for most of the day - see it doesn't just rain in the UK! We arrived dripping at our destination and were able to try crossing the canal on a monkey bridge (see the pictures!), the locals skip over these with ease but we were all a little more wary particularly due to the weather. It was good fun though and thankfully no-one fell in.
We wandered back towards the village and on the way were both dragged into a local gathering to sample some of their rice wine. Very nice but at 9.30 in the morning we might have preferred a cuppa! We toured the lime tree orchard and then got back on the boat and went to visit a
rice factory. Here we saw them dehusking and polishing the rice and filling huge sacks for use all across Vietnam and for export.
A spot of lunch followed after which we boarded a bus bound for Chau Doc where we would be staying for the night. On the way there we stopped at a crocodile farm. The crocs are farmed for their meat and their skin. We saw a large proportion of the farm's 13000 crocodiles ranging from about 8 weeks old to about 15 years old. Scary creatures.
Our last stop of the day was to climb the steps up Sam Mountain in Chau Doc and visit the caved pagoda. Th best part of this were the amazing views over the acres of rice fields surrounding Chau Doc.
Arriving in Chau Doc we checked into the hotel and went out to find some dinner stopping off on the way for one of the best fruit smoothies of the trip so far. After dinner we finished the evening's meal off with a piece of cake from a lady on the street and a beer in the hotel bar.
Day 104
Up at 6.30 we had
packed, showered and had breakfast in record time - 40 mins - where we were taken to the dock and our boat for the day. Today we were off to the Cambodian border, but before the journey was to really get underway we had a couple of sites to visit to get even more of a feel for local life in the delta.
Our first stop was a local red snapper fish farm, this was a floating house with a hole in the middle and caged areas submerged in the water where the fish are kept. After finding out about life on the fish farm we fed them and Mark was used as a guinea pig to prove they didn't have sharp teeth by putting his finger in the water.
From the Fish Farm we visited the Cham Minority village. After crossing a very rickety bridge we arrived in the village to see a local lady doing some traditional hand weaving which was amazing to watch and we couldn't pass up the opportunity to buy a couple of the scarves she had woven.
The village also has a record of the levels of flooding over the years,
which was really interesting to see, with the record level being around 3m up in 2002.
Back on the boat and we started the 3 hour journey to the Cambodian border. With some water leaking and engine issues we arrived 2 hours later than planned where we crossed the border into no mans land. Boarding another boat it was apparent that the 'captain' had recently put the engine back together but still had two bolts left over. There were a lot of confused faces and a bit of a wait untill it looked like they decided that they were not important and fired up the engine! Luckily it worked! Travelling along 'no mans water' we got to the Cambodian immigration office and officially entered the country.
We were to spend the next 5 hours on the boat heading towards Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital city, where we passed lots of children playing in the water, trying to entertain us and eagerly waving untill they got a wave back in response. Our first impression was that Cambodian people were very smily and lots of fun - we immediately thought we'd like it here!
Off the boat we had a
couple of hours on our final bus of the day. We arrived in Phnom Penh a little later then planned, found a cheap hotel and went out for dinner with Benjamin and Suzanna (who we had met on the tour). Gaining some more energy from eating we all went out to a local pub where we had a beer and played some pool.
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Snakey snakey!!
ohhhhh Markey Mark you are brave!!!! He is masshusive!!! Hey you guys! Love you horror video.. move over Blair Witch!!! All is well in rainy july, cant believe how long you guys have been away already. Been on a work conference this week, lots of people kept saying to me, you are just theatre theatre.. ha ha of course darhling!!!! Going to see Harry Potter with Charl tonight.. so excited!!!! Miss you soooo much.. bring on willy wanging outside the Opera House xxxx