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Published: September 29th 2014
Sept 22-23 Khorezm Forts, Nukus
Come Monday morning, and we departed Khiva and headed out into the Khyzlkum desert to explore the ruins of the ancient forts called Elliq-Qala (fifty fortress). Our destination was the Ayaz Kala desert Yurt camp on the edge of the desert. On the way, we visited two forts, Guldurson-Qala - a huge 1stC fort and Koy Krylgan-Qala - a 4thC circular fort that was a pagan temple and observatory. Both had the city walls intact to varying degrees, and some evidence of houses and buildings.
Eventually arrived at the Yurt Camp, settled in, had lunch, and then set off to explore the huge 6thC Ayaz-Qala over the road -almost complete mud walls, it is actually three forts all connected. We were able to walk all over these historic sites at will, pretty amazing that there was no protection, or restoration of the sites.
Sept 23- More forts then 100kms drive to Nukus. We visited Toprak Kala and Kyzl- Kala. Both had a few walls remaining, and that's about all. Interesting to note that there were up to 50 forts of this type and size scattered throughout Khorezm .
On the way from
Ayaz to Nukus, we saw for the first time the cotton pickers out in force in large fields with 'bended' backs in the hot sun trying to meet their Government allocated quotas for picking cotton. Cotton is one of the largest exports of Uzbekistan - a legacy of the Soviet decision to force farmers to plant cotton to exclusion of other more suitable plants. A very dry country, Uzbek devotes a substantial amount of its water resources to irrigate the cotton fields.
Nukus was a 'closed' city under Soviet times with no 'foreigners' allowed to enter - having being a centre of Chemical weapons testing. That all changed as recently as 1991 when Uzbek became an independent country, and the world was let in to see one of greatest Collections of Russian art that is the Savitsky Art Museum. Savitsky was a Ukrainian with a passion for all things ART connected to Russia, and in particular for Karalpakadtan. He was one of the few who dared to collect the banned avante gard art of the 1920's and 30's that so enraged Lenin. By the time of his death in 1948 in Moscow, he had accumulated over 90,000 pieces of
art all housed in a building in Nukus. The collection is recognised today as one of the greatest Russian collections, and is internationally admired. We spent a good three hrs in the museum. Sorry but no photos.
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Nicky Kendall
non-member comment
Joy
Just wanted to let you both know what a joy it has been to follow your blog. Rick and I are looking forward to inviting Jan and John for dinner, upon your return. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us. We salute you both for for your daring and courage. It has enriched our lives.