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Published: February 5th 2006
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Had Khom beach
This is where we stayed in the north of the island, Kho Pha Ngan. From the forests and mountains of Chiang Mai we headed for the islands and beaches of the south of Thailand. We took the overnight train back to Bangkok, then another train to Cha am. This is supposed to be where Bangkokians go for the beach. However, it was pretty dead. I took no photos here, which I guess says it all. We stayed a few nights here before catching the train to Hua Hin and a connection to Surat Thani. We had to wait several hours in Hua Hin, which wasn't so bad as it must be the prettiest train station ever. In fact Thai train stations are generally very well presented and the trains are an enjoyable experience. We had a lovely German breakfast in Hua Hin with real coffee and cold meats.
We stayed overnight in Surat Thani where the ferry leaves for Ko Samui and Ko Pha Ngan. It was dark when the train got into Surat Thani, then we had to pick up a local bus into town, which was full to the gunnells. We had no idea where we were, but we eventually got dropped off near the ferry port, so we figured we ought
Denise on train to Surat Thani
About to get into bed on the overnight train. Denise was on top for a change! to find a hotel and leave in the morning. The area around there is a bit rough and the first hotel we approached had a line of young women sitting outside it. Now this isn't the sort of thing to actually put me off, but Denise was having none of it so we tried another one which was recommended by a local. This one easily had the loudest sound system in Thailand! We ended up in a murky old place on the high street, but at least it had satelitte TV and I was able to watch Man Utd mash up some second-rate London team!
In the morning we caught the ferry to Kho Pha Ngan. We were accosted by various touts and we chose one offering a small bungalow on a secluded palm-fringed beach, surrounded by thick jungle.
We stayed there for 3 days without once leaving the cove. One day I was swimming in the sea during a tropical downpour, quite an experience and even better than Centre Parcs outdoor pool! I nearly got knocked out by a low-flying flying fish. In fact we were hit by a typhoon which swept through this region killing hundreds
of people. We were warned beforehand and some people evacuated the island. We decided to stay but we packed our bags in readiness in case the wind blew off the roof or a tidal wave swept us away! Fortunately we only caught the edge of the typhoon, the storm raged for most of the day and night.
We were staying in a little beach hut/bungalow for 300 Baht per night (4 pounds) right on the beach about 15 yards from the water's edge. It was the fulfillment of all Denise's dreams as she always wanted a house by the sea! It was just a small cove but there were 3 small cafes to choose from, so we just rotated each meal! The food everywhere in Thailand is alloy (not a metal mixture but the Thai word for 'delicious'). Not all of it is spicy, as they do blander Chinese-type meals like Chicken with cashew nuts. When we ordered dinner we took turns in ordering one adventurous dish and one safe dish (in case we couldn't eat the adventurous one!)
After a fantastic time on the island we travelled up to the River Kwai at Kananchaburi. We stayed at
Hua Hin train station
The prettiest train station ever! Sam's River House for a few days. This swayed, especially when boats passed at high speed, which was quite often. For days after I kept swaying involuntarily! I get a similar sensation afer an overnight train journey.
We visited the war cemetry and the Death Railway Museum which were poignant and emotional, we both came out crying! Went home and read my book about the Killing Fields and thought I might jump in the river and end it all there and then! We cheered ourselves up later by indulging in our favourite Chicken in Coconut Soup at the local cheery restaurant!
Another evening we watched the annual Sound and Light show at the Bridge on the River Kwai, which was a spectacular reminder of the events around the construction and eventual destruction of the bridge. Unfortunately the majority of the commentary was in Thai, which we're not yet fluent in!
From there we headed back to Bangkok to pick up a flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia (we decided against the overland journey across the borders after hearing some nightmare tales of scams, bumpy roads, hours of delays etc.)
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