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Published: January 20th 2008
The Sanctuary
Boulders were used in the architecture, so other than the atmosphere, the place was beautiful!HEATHER:
Hello Friends,
After spending two nights in the Northern bay of Chalok Lam, on the island of Ko Pha Ngan which is between Ko Tao (diver's paradise) and Ko Samui (party-going-backpacker's paradise) on the Central coast of the Gulf of Thailand (East side), we left to go explore the most south-eastern area of the island due to a friend's recommendation. With much effort, lots of money and time, we arrived to a place that was described as small, remote and secluded (only accessible by boat), peaceful and quiet...much to our surprise we found the place to be infiltrated with incredibly snobby, fashion-conscious, ridiculously over-dressed and shockingly unfriendly people and an atmosphere quite unappealing to both of us. We found a moderately nice bungalow far away from the action (or so we thought) with a box-spring instead of a mattress for a bed. We settled in, already knowing we would leave the next day, but still trying to stay open-minded that we could have a change of heart. We headed over to "The Sanctuary" which is a little yoga-meditation-organic-food resort-type place and ate a fairly good, but crazy-expensive lunch while watching the fascinating dynamics of the community interactions. The weather was
View from our Table at The Sanctuary
The beautiful, if tainted, beach area of Haad Tien in the South Eastern side of Ko Pha-Ngan...orchids are Thailand's national flower. quite severe (wind mostly) and we watched as a tall thin yogi-looking man took his adorable little 4 or 5 yr old son with sun-bleached hair and quite the tan, into the raging water by kayak, only feet from some perilous boulders. Tension was high as we saw them heading towards the heaving surge with large white-frothy peaked waves crashing over them...and then it happened; the magnificent swell crashed into and over-turned the kayak. People who had been smoking, drinking and lounging immediately jumped to their feet and searched with horrified looks for the two between the rocks. They were pummeled against the granite boulders a few times and a man had run out to grab the boy from his father's arms while he went to retrieve the paddle and boat. It was quite the scene, and of course visible to all...WOW.
Then we went and found another sweet little hang-out restaurant with hammocks, candles, cushions and low tables that hung out over the rock formations and had a beautiful view of the night-time waves and the glittering lights of the adjacent town, Haad Yuan. We enjoyed fruity shakes and then headed back home to our humble abode.
We had
The harrowing kayak experience
In between those two boulders on the left is where the man and his little son were being pounded by the surf. been notified that electricity was spared by only being turned on between 5:30pm and midnight. So as we walked to our bungalow, ready for a sweet night's sleep, and heard the unfathomably deep and reverberating bass beats of a party, we thought; "well at least it will end at midnight", still a little put off by how UN-remote the island sanctuary was turning out to be. So at three a.m, then 6 a.m. and then !!!8 a.m!!! when the music was STILL blasting us out of sleep and shaking our walls...we were LESS THAN PLEASED. We had a delightful breakfast after the music stopped at about 9 a.m. overlooking the countless coconut palm trees and the distant crashing blue waves. Then we headed out by boat, paying the hefty fee just to get out of there more quickly and found our way back to Chalok Laam where we prayed and crossed our fingers that our favorite little 10-bungalow guest-house directly on the pristine white sand beach with (now) gentle aquamarine waves lapping but 40 feet from the door-steps...would have a room available for us.
When we arrived sweaty and hot to our little haven, we just beamed and glowed to
Back in Chalok Lam
Dave and his book by Mark Twain "Following the Equator" and donning his brand new Thai Fisherman's pants that we bought on our little beach from a sweet little old man :) find there was ONE bungalow left. We checked in and immediately donned our bathing suits and dove into the refreshing water...holding each other in our arms and exclaiming at how happy we were to 'be home'.
We ate at our favorite restaurant Nam Nook on the main drag (basically the only drag) where we were the only ones there (typically the place has been packed), dined like royalty for a total of $12, while petting their stray cat and connecting with the Thai proprietor, Mon (who is also a local fisherman/captain) and again, just feeling absolutely thrilled to be back.
This place is magical, it has the perfect mix of locals (mostly a fishing town) and
farang (westerners) with a very chilled-out vibe and quite-party-free evenings. We love it here, and it is where we have decided to settle.
For 4 more days that is 😊
"La Dulce Far Niente" they say in Italian; the sweetness of doing nothing. This is what we are trying to perfect....so other than writing this blog, buying water in town and eating...we are practicing the true art of relaxation while floating in the tepid salty water, napping, reading and writing postcards in our two Baby Coconut Palms
They just fall to the ground and start sprouting!
View Dave's blog to see the Macaques in action! hand-made (on this island) hammocks and soaking up the beauty of this awe-inspiring location.
Tomorrow we go diving (Dave) and snorkeling (Me) around Ko Tao (the island that has given out the second most PADI open-water certificates in the world)....breakfast and lunch are included and we are looking forward to this adventure. It has been many years since I have done snorkeling in fabulous locations like this....last time was in 1998 or so...in Hawaii.
Sticky rice with bananas inside, green curry, panang curry, mussaman curry, fried rice with seafood, grilled local King fish, coconut everything, fruit shakes, and western breakfasts have been our main source of nourishment...
Yup, this is the life....
I'm still debating whether or not to head back to Bangkok with Dave to see him off, or to get certified in diving on Ko Tao before heading north and then into Laos...wish me luck on this challenging decision. I will take advice too!
Sending you all lots of love, hope you enjoy the pictures!
~Heather~
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Will I am
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Ups Downs Still lead Up
Wow, what a trip so far. I am excited for you, I am sorry for the Party Noise but Damn, Shouldn't you have just gone and joined? Hmmm, wel I guess maybe not. The Beaches look Amazing! The Food sounds Great. Coconut Ice Cream, Nice... Bring me back some.