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Published: April 16th 2009
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Another day of Songkran, another adventure in miscommunication…
Jaz and I decided we would like to have a little bamboo rafting adventure. We had done this last year as part of a packaged day-long tour that included an elephant ride, a visit to a waterfall, etc. This time we really just wanted to do the bamboo raft, so the guest house arranged a taxi to take us there and we headed out in the late morning.
Last year’s bamboo raft experience was a crazy Songkran-on-the-water experience with hundreds of bamboo rafts floating down a narrow river and thousands of Thai people throwing water and overturning rafts and generally having a raucous good time. This year’s experience was a calm and relaxing one, with no other rafts near us as we glided along, and more elephants than people along the riverbank. I have absolutely no idea why it was so different, and it would have been almost dull except for our boatmen.
The bamboo raft comes complete with two men to pole the raft along. We had an older man on the back and a younger man in front, and at first I thought they spoke no English at
all. It turned out that between them they had about a dozen words, including:
“Hat”
“Waterfall”
“Baby”
“America - good!”
“Big money!” and
“Happy Yew Near!”
The old guy figured out early on with some gestures and sign language that we were mother and daughter, or as he called us, “mama” and “baby.” And that is what he called us for the rest of the trip. His lack of English and our lack of Thai seemed to be no deterrent to his efforts to converse with us, and everything he said was punctuated by hysterical laughter and the occasional sound that suggested he might be coughing up a hairball. He chattered away happily, starting every effort with “Aaaaah, mama!” to get my attention, and then pointing out something on the riverbank or asking a question I didn’t understand, usually finishing up with “Happy Yew Near!” and his crazy laugh. Jaz was laughing so hard at one point I was half afraid she would roll off the raft, which delighted the old guy and got him laughing harder, which perpetuated the whole cycle.
At some point, it seemed they were asking us where we were from, so I said,
These guys amuse themselves by putting silly hats on tourists
And then they laugh and insist on taking photos so you can humiliate yourself on your own travel blog. “United States.” Their blank stares reminded me that to many people, that means nothing, so I corrected myself to say, “America.” That thrilled them both, causing two thumbs up, huge grins, and repeated proclamations: “America! America! Good! Big money! Big money!”
(I tried to explain our current economic downturn and recession, but they didn’t seem to get it.) Every now and then throughout the ride, they would exchange some words in Thai, and then one or the other would again announce delightedly, “America! Big money!” This was the least subtle hint for a big tip that I’ve ever witnessed.
Other efforts at conversation had similarly confusing results. At one point I thought the old guy was asking how old Jaz is, so I showed him “16” with my fingers. He nodded thoughtfully, then said, “Me, one baby.” (I guess now he thinks I have 16 kids.) When he started again with “America - good!” I thought maybe we could expand on the topic, so I tossed in another word that many here seem to know: “Yes, Obama good!” I agreed. “Mama good!” was his response. (Now he thinks I’m bragging about my parenting skills.) I steered him back to
a safer topic: “Happy New Year, my friend!” “Happy Yew Near!” he cackled back at me, causing Jaz to collapse into another fit of laughter.
After 45 minutes or so of laughing until tears rolled down our faces and carrying on conversations that made no sense, our ride was over. Because I come from America, the land of Big Money, and because they entertained us so well, I tipped them accordingly.
Sometimes you go out seeking a particular experience, and you get something completely different. I love that.
We returned to the guest house in time to engage in the final hours of the final day of Songkran. It seems that most of the other westerners had checked out this morning, so Jaz was out there with a crowd of Thais who were determined to get everyone and everything soaked to the gills. No mercy was shown to anyone, buckets of water were flying in every direction, and Ad was pouring the drinks, singing and dancing in the street. Tomorrow we shall see what Chiang Mai looks like when everyone is just going about their usual routines.
Happy Yew Near, everybody!
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Miriam
non-member comment
I am GREEDY
I keep wanting to read more and more and MORE. I was so happy that you had posted today. I also got a laugh at your bamboo raft adventure. The rafting guide sounds like a wonderful character in your soon to be written book. Please consider it! I miss you guys but love reading about your time there. The pictures are amazing. Thank you!