Nang Rong (3-4 Oct 12)

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Next stop Nang Rong, a quiet, unassuming small town some 2h southeast of Khorat, in the province of Buriram. Apart from a KFC and a couple of convenience stores, there really wasn't much in the town itself. It was about as innocuous as a small Isaan town could get. And moving deeper into the heart of Isaan, English becomes sparser and sparser, and I find myself increasingly having to test whatever Thai I'd learned in Bangkok.



Nang Rong served as a stop point for visiting two ancient Khmer-style temple complexes nearby, known as Phanom Rung and Muang Tam, which were a pleasant 1h motorcycle ride away, through the Isaan countryside, and up a relatively low extinct volcano. It was almost incredible arriving at each temple complex to see that, apart from a smattering of groundsmen and just a few tourists, they were essentially deserted! And they were beautiful too, magnificently restored and every bit a match for the minor temples at Siem Reap, if not Angkor itself. Phanom Rung in particular was spectacularly set atop a plateau overlooking panoramic fields of green. I will let the pictures do the talking.



LP mentioned that the doorways of Phanom Rung were designed to allow light to pass through completely only four times a year, once being during the sunsets from 5-7 Oct. Of course I had to arrive just a day too early on 4 Oct!

Stayed at the Honey Inn, a very friendly homestay where I seemed to be the only guest! I felt so welcomed that I considered staying an extra night. Alas my time in Thailand was running out so I had to push on eastwards to my next destination, Ubon Ratchatani, from where I intend to head towards the border crossing into Laos.

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Photos

Phanom Rung
Grand walkway leading up to the temple.

Phanom Rung
The entrance.

Phanom Rung
The central Prasat, or tower.

Phanom Rung
The temple complex sits atop a relatively low extinct volcano. Beyond those trees and through the gap in the foliage, you can see the background of the vast verdant Isaan countryside. Beautiful.

Phanom Rung
Reverse view of the long and very grand walkway leading to the temple.

Phanom Rung
These Thais are very crafty! Notice how the prices for the locals are written in Thai! Needless to say they are markedly less than for foreigners. Guess they were trying to be sensitive about it, hoping the foreigners wouldn't notice or realise! I have mixed feelings about dual pricing, but that's another story altogether...

Mueang Tam
The entrance. Ok I confess, what you don't see are the dozen or so screaming little Thai schoolchildren behind me when I was taking this photo. Thank goodness they were leaving when I arrived! But I'm glad these otherwise deserted ruins are at least being appreciated by the locals, given the dearth of tourists!

Nang Rong to Phanom Rung
Just another Thursday morning in Isaan. The typical view I had during the motorcycle ride to the ruins.

Siamese Cat (?)
Despite having been in Thailand almost three months already, I think this was the first classic-looking Siamese Cat I've spotted! Ok the Thong Lor Fruit Stall Cat in Bangkok had the same coloured coat, but it just seemed too fat to fit the mould! This elegant cat was actually being guarded by two over-protective alpha male mongrel dogs that you don't see under the table, which growled and even charged at me as I approached! Fortunately they were leashed, otherwise it might have been necessary to put that rabies shot that I took before my trip to the test!