Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace

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Hello again, faithful blogging buddies.The first few days of 'Shut down Bangkok' are winding down and I can report all is well with the city and more importantly me. By the accounts I have read there has been only very isolated and random acts of violence, with nothing even close to resembling a move or change in focus of the demonstrators. That is not to say things could change as the waiting war grinds on without the stated goal of forcing the government to step down realized. The embassy is in touch and as I said before I am ever vigilant and of course fleet of foot should the need arise.

My latest adventure, a visit to see the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, begin as many of my adventures do, with a false start. A Buddhist would refer to in as an inauspicious start.I was up at the crack of 9 and spent a good part of my morning, chatting with Nicole, as I do every morning. By noon I was buffed and fluffed and on my way to the central pier to get a boat to the temples. I had my ticket in hand and was waiting at the dockside reading up on Wat Phra Kaew in my lonely planet guide, when I saw a side bar notation marked Dress Code.Upon reading it I learned that my admission to the temples would be denied for dressing inappropriately. No shorts, and sandals require the guards to be in lenient spirits. So back home I went to change then off I again,this time feeling like all was aligned.

The boat ride was as always of great interest, the city around the river seems calm at times when you see the chaos of the river itself. Longtail boats roaring around zig zagging between ferries criss crossing. Quite sure no one here has passed any sort of power squadron certification to navigate these waters and many boats carry garlands of flowers on their bows to presumably curry favour with their god for protection from a watery afterlife.

The pier near the temple complex is like many others, filled with vendors and food stalls, with a single path weaving through them all before one emerges on the other side with the complex before you across the street. I walked along the sidewalk in the direction of the entrance gate .There were military sentries at the entrances and one tout at one gate tried to tell me the audio guide booth closed at 1 so I needed to use his guide services. Having been warned by the guide book of this common scam I laughed and said , good try. He laughed as well shrugging in acknowledgment of being found out but with no regret.

Walking to the ticket booth, with many other people, this being Bangkok's biggest tourist attraction, I noticed a building where people were renting clothes to cover their own immodest dress. Seems I could have rented clothing to allow me entrance to Thailands holiest of shrines, but I am sure it would have been ill fitting at best and perhaps comical at worst. Tickets were 500 Bhat to get in, about 16 dollars, but they had rented out all of their audio guides so I was left with a map and imagination. I plan on going back and will be sure to have an earlier start so I should get one next time.

True enough the guards were scrutinizing peoples clothing as they entered and there was tugging of pants and adjustments being made to pass their inspections. Once inside it was clear why so many people visit this site. It is architecturally fantastic! The grounds consecrated in 1792, the first year of Bangkok rule, with over 100 buildings on 94 hectares. It is the spiritual core of Thai Buddism and the Monarchy, symbolically united in the countries most holy image, the Emerald Buddha.

The Emerald Buddha is small, measuring only 66 cm tall and sits so high above worshippers heads surrounded by the most spectacular ornentation that one could almost miss it sitting there.The Buddha wears a differnt monastic robe depending on the season.The robes are changed by the King as the seasons change.

The Emerald Buddha is actually made of jade, the word emerald only referring to the colour in Thai, dates back to 1434 according to what is referred to as a reliable chronicle. He has moved around with Kings and royalty but was brought to Bangkok from Thonburi where he now rests.The ornate gold ornamentation is amazing reaching high towards the ceiling with the little Buddha sitting at the top.I took a picture, against the rules but did so very tactfully so as not to be noticed or disturb anyone.

The rest of the complex is equally wonderful, with golden statues of amazing creatures, demons guarding doorways and buildings shimmering in the sunshine.Around the cloister that defines the perimeter of the complex are Ramakien murals ,178 murals depicting the 'Ramakien' the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana, telling the story of the hero Rama and his bride Sita dealing with the evil king Ravana with the assistance of the monkey king Hanuman.The cloister is 2km long so seeing all of the murals would be a trip in itself but they are a quiet place and quite a nice contrast from the crowds in the main temple areas.

I will attach some photo's, again with Nicole's help. They are but a fraction of what I took but hopefully will give you some sense of this place.

The rest of the complex, the Grand Palace, was not as grand. The actual palace residence used by a past king was behind locked gates but I walked through a number of buildings used for Royal ceremonies and saw golden thrones and more beautiful buildings.

It was a good day and I am happy to be able to share it with you all. Bye for now.

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Photos

Grand Palace
Buddhist prayer