48 hours in the Land of Smiles

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Thailands flagPublished: August 15th 2005Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok
August 12th 2005

Royal Barge FigureheadRoyal Barge Figurehead
Royal Barge Figurehead

One of the many interesting figureheads on the Royal Barges.
Bangkok has been notably described as the “Arsehole of Asia” and “Cesspool” by others on Travelblog. After 48 hours I think these titles are a little unfair, but the Thai name - Krung Thep - translating to “City of Angels” - is a touch on the flattering side -maybe somewhere in the city, between the skyscrapers and the slow moving stinky rivers there maybe a real angel, but one thing is sure - there are plenty of girls who'll be your angel for one night for only 300 baht! and there are plenty of guys searching for angels. The sex tourism aspect of Thailand has been present ever since Heathrow Airport waiting lounge, chatting to a “business man” while waiting for a flight - “I love Thailand... a bottomless barrel of women who all think I look like Brad Pitt”, to the bars on Koh San Road where (some!) western guys you meet drinking will end the night extolling the virtues of the local prostitutes.

After an 11hr flight from London, I took the easy option, a cab to the center, should have taken the train, quicker and cheaper at rush hour. Arrived in Koh San Road about 6pm and
Koh San RoadKoh San Road
Koh San Road

By day...
took the first vacant room I found. Freshened up and went out to wander the streets, looking for adventure. Koh San Road is the backpacker ghetto of Bangkok, but it's cheap, easy, and the backpackers every whim is catered for. Banana pancakes for breakfast :) Both sides are lined with guest houses, bars, shops selling everything from backpacks to cameras, and street traders selling DVDs and CDs, food, or tying scraping and twisting hair in to plaits or dreads.

Sitting at the bars a constantly passing crowd of people passes by, backpackers of every variety, locals equally varied, and more street traders - selling giant zipo lighters, tribal things from the north (the irritating wooden frog thing - chirp chirp) and the fish hat lady - all will approach you over and over and over, many traders identically dressed, selling the same merchandise - they blur - and the day or evening passes.

Tuk-tuk drivers shout for business - “Hey you, where you go?” - followed by hard bartering from 50 baht down to 10 for a whirlwind tour of many temples (70 baht = ~£1 = ~$2). I decided to walk, I like walking plus didn't want
Tuk-TukTuk-Tuk
Tuk-Tuk

"Hey you, where you go?"
the hard sell of the many gem and suit shops that the tuk-tuk drivers drop you at in order to make commission (which is why they offer tours at 10 baht!). Despite walking the ever insistent Tuk-tuk drivers kept trying to flag me down, jumping out of their cabs and chasing me down the street.

“Hey you, where you go?” - “The standing Buddha” - “I take you there, only 20 baht!” - “It's only a block away, I'll walk thanks” - “I take you there, only 10 baht” - “I can see it! - I don't need a tuk-tuk” - “I take you there, only 5 baht...”

Which brings me on nicely to Buddhas, in Bangkok I've seen, sitting Buddhas, standing Buddhas, fat Buddhas, thin Buddhas, black Buddhas, white Buddhas, gold Buddhas, giant (45m) Buddhas and little tiny baby Buddhas, every temple has a thousand variations - and I've seen a fair few temples

Of the other attractions, the Royal Barges were well worth seeing, and walking through the residential parts of the city nearby was a welcome change to Koh San, and the Mountain of Gold was one of the more peaceful places I visited
The Queen of ThailandThe Queen of Thailand
The Queen of Thailand

Celebrated her birthday on the 11th (or 12th) - many happy returns :)
- but really this was just a quick skip through Bangkok - but I will be back - it's a crossroads for all parts around here, and one of the better places to get Visas for India and China. I've made the decision to head south for this part of my journey, it's the dry season in Indonesia, and looping down and then up through the Philippines then back towards mainland South East Asia, to see the Temples of Angkor in the dry season.

Footnote:I made my pilgrimage to the Pig Shrine - this should explain why

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Ali Watters
10 years of Travel Blog! I'm a traveller, diver, photographer and techie! Current location: Kuala Lumpur Twitter: @ali_watters ... full info
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A unified Thai kingdom was established in the mid-14th century. Known as Siam until 1939, Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country never to have been taken over by a European power. A bloodless revolution in 1932 led to a constitutional monarchy....more info

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BellsBells
Bells

From the Mountain of Gold
WatWat
Wat

But what wat? Lost track...
Standing BuddahStanding Buddah
Standing Buddah

45m high...
Thin BuddahThin Buddah
Thin Buddah

See the ribs?
Sitting BuddahSitting Buddah
Sitting Buddah

This is the official one...
Many BuddahsMany Buddahs
Many Buddahs

As far as the eye can see.
Royal Barge FigureheadRoyal Barge Figurehead
Royal Barge Figurehead

From the monkey barge...
Detail from the Royal BargeDetail from the Royal Barge
Detail from the Royal Barge

All were intricately decorated...
The Pig Shrine..The Pig Shrine..
The Pig Shrine..

This one is for Bob Wallace!





Comments
Date: 19th August 2005

Pattaya
Hi Ali...Will be in Pattaya as from the 2nd September so if you are about let me know

From Blog: 48 hours in the Land of Smiles
Date: 20th August 2005

Enjoyed
Was in Thailand two years ago--your fabulous blog brought back memories, especially of the tuk-tuks! Nice photos

From Blog: 48 hours in the Land of Smiles




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