It’s a seven leopard kind of day

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Our last day here was met with some expectation and anticipation. We were excited that no more 5am starts awaited us and equally delighted that our slow roaster would soon ding. But we were excited to see what Wilpattu had to deliver. A quick tea and we were on our way, pleased to be in pole position at the gate.

The paperwork was done (in triplicate, again, identically incorrect as yesterday’s) and off we bumped down the road, still holding on to first place. We held our position for a while before another jeep, unencumbered by pesky passengers wanting to stop and look at animals sped past us, only to stop just around the bend ahead and flick its hazards. Apparently the human alarm call for leopard!

Sure enough, on the road ahead, a mother and her two cubs meandered, but the activity and our palpable excitement was obviously too much for their early morning, so they slunk off into the bushes. We managed to get a great look at them, snaking their sleek bodies through the undergrowth but it didn’t prove great for photos.

While we were bummed to have missed an opportunity for a great shot, we were delighted at our early find and the relaxed majesty and calm confidence of these beautiful creatures.

We continued on down the road, having now completely relinquished our position at the front, but smug in the knowledge that we’d been privileged enough to witness what those behind us had not. It wasn’t long before we came across another clump of vehicles, all jostling for position on the road. Apparently another guide had spotted a leopard heading this way!

Our guide bucked popular opinion and headed past what appeared to be the chosen viewing spot and took us about 50m down the road, facing all the others. It was not long before others joined our spot, in a kind of Mexican Jeep standoff, but he’d made sure we were in the middle of the road and couldn’t be blocked.

The alarm call began, this time from the monkeys, and not using hazard lights. It came and went and when breakfast boxes were distributed, I began to fear we’d missed our chance. But our guide was adamant that something was about to happen and a sudden influx of alarm calling monkeys running our way suggested he may know what he’s talking about.

Sure enough, some flickering in the bushes and out popped a head…and then a body. And then another two behind - another mother and two cubs! They pondered their position for some time, apparently somewhat bemused as to why they were featuring in some kind of Jeep meeting at the OK Corral.

Apparently unbothered by our stupidity, they slunk up the road, in our directions, casually observing their surroundings, gazing at the simian antics above, and generally relishing their positions at the top of the Sri Lankan food chain. Mum (Cleopatra) marked her territory while cubs looked on and humans gazed, awe struck by their grace and stateliness, even backed up against a tree, being watched by your offspring.

After too short a time, they reached where they chose to re-enter the bush and off they strolled, seemingly unaware or unaffected by the commotion and excitement they had generated.

This obviously called for a celebratory toilet stop and proper break for breakfast and we were all just coming down from our leopard-induced high before we were on our way again, heading around the sandy shores of the lake. This time alone, we turned a corner and almost ran into another leopard, this one a single female, apparently out for a morning stroll.

As unbothered by our presence as her colleagues, she wandered down the road before she found a patch of ground she apparently REALLY liked and proceeded to roll and rub herself all over it, reminding us of Fatty’s love for Eloise’s swimmers. We were treated to a show of her rolling around, kicking her legs in the air and doing everything she could to swap smells with this wondrous spot.

We could hardly believe our morning! The rest of it passed in a blur. I think we also saw an elephant…maybe…but it was far away…I think. But what did we care?! After seven leopards in the space of three hours, nothing else was ever going to compare!

We were pleased to be heading back to camp for a rest, lunch and a shower or two before our afternoon drive. With no pressure to see anything, we enjoyed the drive through the beautiful forest, surrounded by butterflies. We enjoyed some time by a lake, surrounded by buffalo, deers and warthogs (including a gaggle of babies) but content in the knowledge that our animal watching had absolutely peaked.

Back to camp, more showers, drinks and dinner before falling into bed! Spotting seven leopards is apparently an exhausting business!

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