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Published: February 24th 2010
So there's a specific bird I'm looking for this day, and I take a little dugout canoe across a shallow river, and start walking. First through the village, a scattering of concrete, mud and plywood and bamboo huts and houses, lots of palms everywhere, dirt paths going through people's gardens, everyone very friendly, we all say hello all day long. Then leaving the houses behind and into more serious jungle, real tropical rainforest. I'm following a river more or less and occasionally the path crosses it, a chance to get naked and find a rock pool in the rapids. After an hour I come into a bit of a clearing and a house straight out of hollywood's idea of a jungle retreat, on the river's edge, packed earth front yard, lots of shade, the word verdant was created for places like this, it is green, green, green. I sit down on a chair the old woman there has pulled out for me, and share some cake I brought ,with her grandchild. Then just space out in the cool and stare into the trees. After 10 minutes the bush I'm facing begins to jiggle, and a moment later a Green-billed Coucal, my target bird, emerges, as does his sweetheart, expose themselves briefly, then tuck back into the foliage.
My work here is done. Soak my t-shirt and head home to incredible feast of home cooking, Lanka style. I'm the only guest in this overpriced resort, so atmosphere is slightly lacking, but it's on a river, and there are lots of birds in the garden.
Birding is big in this country, but it's almost all tour groups, in vans or cars, with bird guides and schedules. Not my style at all, and expensive. But for me to be near the birds I too must stay in these resorts. Although alone at this place, earlier I had socialized with other birders, a rare treat for me. I feel clever that I find the birds without a guide, and pay a fraction of what they pay. I don't see quite as many as them, but except for bragging rights in a very limited circle, there are no prizes in this game. So I enjoy what I do see, try my best to see more, and watch my mind comparing. Birding is real meditation. On several levels, the sitting quietly, with heightened awareness, and the watching the games that go on when one is successful or just as often, unsuccessful.
Sri Lanka is like India, but very different too, difficult to say how. Small place of course, more green, more wealthy I'd say, and more expensive generally. They don't do chai here as in India, I miss that. People are friendlier, more mellow, Buddhist influence possibly, so maybe that much more repressed. Smile when you don't mean it! Very hot, but today I'm in the hills, and a big difference. I had to buy a sweatshirt for evening wear as I had only light short-sleeve things.
Decided to return to UK in 4 weeks, so already counting down, decided to shorten my planned stay here (It's just not India!), so I could finish off with a few days back in Varanasi.
As easily predicted, after Narayani was here, my incentive to keep on keeping on has dwindled. I'm tired and I want to go home. It's been 4 months, one more to go. I never stay as long as I think I might. I guess most would find 5 months a pretty good run. And it has been good. Still is! BE HERE NOW!
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Joanna
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Good to hear from you
Great to hear about Sri Lanka - N told me you were going there but I had forgotten until just now. Good that you are coming home soon too - after reading this piece about swimming naked in the rapids etc I wondered whethher things might seem dull in devon by comparison - but I guess you adjust. I will be moving to Bristol at the end of march - so will be a little nearer you and N. It will be good to get together. Off to work now - have a good day and happy birding. Joanna