Historic Japan, and Green Tea Plantations

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While the daily midday heat here In Daegu still pushes the mercury well past the expected 30 degree mark, the evenings have begun to cool, bringing what can only be described as a long awaited and welcomed relief. It's quite amazing to think that the weather has started its slow descent back into winter-hood; the same season in which I arrived, almost 9 months ago. With this refreshing perspective comes a need to reflect back on the summer of 2010; a summer spent with a beautiful person, exploring, educating, and truly living.

Approximately a month or so after our return from the Philippines we boarded a state of the art hydrofoil speed-ferry bound for Fukuoka Japan; a far cry from the second-hand 'floating coffins' we became all too familiar with in the beautiful and raw southern tropics 30 days prior. The trip started off well with Chanel and I riding first class. Now many foreigners often get bumped up to first class free of charge attributing it to nothing more than the simple fact they are Waegooks or 'foreigners' and for whatever reason, are entitled to special treatment. But unfortunately, this time, we were forced due to limited space to purchase the high-roller seats.

We only had three days in this land where you can, with deep pockets, and I mean deep pockets, easily spend months and months exploring. I'm reminded of Chanel's friend telling her you need at least two weeks in Kyoto alone to find and appreciate the true beauty while unmasking the semblance. Thus, we were forced to limit our options and tighten up our itinerary. While Kyoto, with its serene wildlife, unforgettable temples, and stealthy Geishas was held high on our to-see list, we decided, due to time constraints, on Fukuoka and Hiroshima. The first thing that struck me was the Shinkansen or Japanese Bullet Train. Wow does this thing move. I thought the Korean high speed KTX was fast, and it is, hitting 300 km/h...eventually...in the middle of the country side... for short bursts. The shinkansen fires off like a rocket hitting 300 km/h while still in the station. It's pretty remarkable to see, or not see, the city whiz by at that kind of speed. And was it ever smooth. I'm unsure of the build, whether its magnetic or rail, but regardless, it was motionless, quiet, and I could have sworn the turns were banked. On the other hand, maybe I was just conceptualizing this because of the thrill of the ride. It was kind of like your first roller coaster, or the first time you accelerated super fast in a high horse-powered car. At any rate, it is a worthwhile experience, at least once. And I say once because your budget may only permit a single journey, as a one-way, 2 hour trip, costs about 9000 yen, or 130 bucks.

Upon arriving in Hiroshima we immediately wanted to see what has been created or left behind to solemnize one of the darkest days in history. August 6th, 1945. What we found was this delicate and beautiful park dedicated solely to the promotion of peace. We toured around for a while, and then proceeded to the museum. I must say at this point, I've studied the second World War, I've seen pictures, I've heard stories. I thought I understood the intricacies, the thoughts, the emotions. But nothing could ever compare to how I felt in that museum, at that moment. It's similar to how I felt visiting the Dachau concentration camp in Germany. Getting in the mindset of seeing what they saw, breathing the same air, and standing where they once stood gives one goosebumps; it's why I love to travel and educate myself through first hand experience. To learn about "A-Bomb microcephaly" which was a common condition where children who had been exposed to radiation in their mothers wombs were born with retarded mental development or physical disabilities. To see the pictures of students and teachers outside amidst the ruins because they literally had nowhere to teach. I remember sitting at an outdoor cafe by the river, gazing at the modern architecture, listening to the songs of the cicadas, and envisioning what the same vantage point would have looked like just 65 years ago. It's something that words cannot even express.

The peace in that city is overwhelming. Every day hundreds of people, many of them children, lay down paper cranes, educate others, and simply deal with their torn fate; one poisoned by a horrific past, while staying optimistic for a bright future.

That night Chanel and I went to a Japanese baseball game. Now let's compare Korean and Japanese baseball for a minute. I thoroughly enjoyed the Samsung Lions game I went to in Korea, but Japanese baseball is in an entirely different league, in more ways than one. Most people are familiar with the incessant fanaticism revolving around Japanese baseball, but I for one, had no idea it was this outrageous. This particular night, the Hiroshima Carp were playing the Tokyo Giants. The Carp have not won a pennant in 20 years. They are an abominable team; think the 2003 Detroit Tigers. With that said, this insignificant little fact does not deter the local supporters one bit. Day in and day out, they sell out their brand new 30 000 capacity Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium with an enthusiasm and deafening reverberation unheard of in their western or Korean counterparts. I guess it would be like witnessing a South American soccer game. The fans sing and chant the entire game. They literally jump out of their seats and applaud for a home-team strike or can of corn fly ball put-out. The Asahi beer guy scurries around with a 50 litre keg strapped to his back refilling your red dixie cup with his portable tap ensuring your spirits remain high regardless of the outcome. It's an infectious way to watch a game of baseball, and one that I surely will not forget.

The next day Chanel and I went to a Japanese garden where we had the opportunity to enjoy a traditional tea ceremony. We walked around the garden and fed the wide-mouthed Koi fish who clearly knew what was coming. We proceeded into the house where an older Japanese Lady sat us down on the Tatami mats, blessed our green tea, and let us relax to ourselves in the tranquil garden.

Hiroshima is a beautiful city that still struggles to overcome many unimaginable obstacles, but for the most part has reborn itself with a remarkable modern spirit while still capturing and clearly embracing its past. With this calming atmosphere that surrounds the city we decided to visit a couple Buddhist Shrines. Upon arrival, Chanel rinsed her hands in the purification fountain, and we simply wandered around taking in everything we could. We watched a ceremony and stood, watching, quietly, curiously, not understanding a lot, but enjoying the experience nonetheless. It was a simple moment, but one that clearly defined our trip to Hiroshima.

That night we just relaxed at our hostel and enjoyed a bottle of the local Sake. We got up the next day and made our way back to Fukuoka for our last day.

The highlights of Fukuoka were certainly seeing the largest Buddha in Japan and staying at a traditional Ryokan. The morning of the last day we only had to walk a few hundred yards from our hostel before finding a cluster of Japanese Temples. For anyone who has traveled Asia, you’re well aware than many temples can appear to be very similar in design and appeal, and its easy to embrace the “once you’ve seen one” motto. Luckily for us, inside the very first temple stood the biggest wood carved Buddha in Japan. It was absolutely massive, dwarfing me in its size and power. Breaking the rules, and I’m sure to the chagrin of the local keeper, we snapped a few photos to ensure we didn’t forget its incredible mass.

When you think traditional Japanese housing, you probably imagine the Japanese Ryokan. A Ryokan is a traditional Japanese Inn that originated in the Edo Period hundreds of years ago. They come complete with tatami-mats, floor bedding, and other public areas where you sport Yukata or Japanese robes. The particular one we stayed at was deemed a cultural heritage site in Japan and is over one hundred years old. The majority of the night was spent gazing at the bonsai trees and other flora in their garden, and occasionally slapping each other in an attempt to come to terms with the surreal moments we were both currently living.

Even though Japan was very expensive, it was a terrific trip. The people are very different from Korean people; for one they actually sweat and have leg hair! Chanel tried her first Sashimi which she thoroughly enjoyed. We saw the zen temple where green tea was born. We ate tasty local foods, visited castles and ruins, and most importantly learned so much. I can't wait to get back to visit Osaka, Kobi, and Kyoto.

Moving on, there is something uniquely magical about green tea. Something makes you feel good about drinking a liquid that supposedly comes from a far away land, or a top a mountain, or blessed from a temple. And its not only the ostensible health benefits, but the culture of green tea that makes you feel special and that you are experiencing something novel. With this in mind, I asked one of my Korean co-teachers, In-Hee how to navigate to this small city on the south western coast renowned for its green tea plantations, named Boseong. After explaining to me that it would require a mess of bus, taxi, and subway transfers, she offered to take Chanel and I the following weekend on the four hour journey with her friend. Korean people are awesome

We hiked the base of the mountain, and immediately felt the mysticism of the scenery. Not taking anything away from Korea, but many cities look very similar due to the speed that which roads and buildings develop. This refreshing eerie and enchanted place looked like something resembling a Lord of the Rings set. The weather was perfect. It was grey, and wanted to rain all day, but luckily we didn't feel a drop. The result was periods of low misty clouds blowing through the mountains and hanging in the trees. It was exactly what you wanted on a hot and humid summer day. We walked through the green tea plantations, hiking to the top of the mountain, and then down again. We tried Green Tea ice cream, green tea bi bim bap, 비빔밥 (vegtables, seaweed, dwenjang sauce, and green tea), and green tea dongkass, 돈까스 (fried pork). It was a lovely day and I am indebted to In-Hee for offering to take us to a place so remote and removed from the every day routine of the city.

Just to quickly mention, we also went to the DMZ (demilitarised zone) between North and South Korea. Both countries are technically still at war since neither signed any sort of peace treaty at the end of the Korean war. Tensions are high since there is still controversy regarding the sinking of a South Korean vessel in march. Seoul says they sunk it, NK denies all allegations. Either way, it seems like a bunch of political hogwash, and I've lost most interest. The DMZ was neat however, as we could peer into secretive North Korea through telescopic lenses. We also went down a few hundred meters into one of the supposed 19 tunnels that North Korea has dug into South Korea. (SK has found 4 of them).

As I said, the season is turning, and I can feel it cooling down at night. I'm excited as I'm headed to Taiwan next week for Chuseok (Korean thanksgiving). I have started drumming again which I love. I haven't sat behind a kit since I was 17, and I'm picking it up pretty quickly once again. Myself and a few buddies play a couple times a week and we may do a show next month at a local bar. I only have about 3 months left, and then I'll be heading back to Canada. I love it here in Korea, but I am anxious to see what has transpired back home. Chanel has gone home now for her last year of school. It was a tremendous summer filled with so many memories I'll never forget. It was truly incredible, and I have to thank her so much for taking a risk and coming out here. Thank you. Until next time!

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