Mounds and Mraz and Motels Oh My!

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Being relatively ‘old hats’ at this Korean gig, we still find ourselves in positions that truly boggle our minds. These last two weekends we went back on the prowl, the first weekend to Seoul and this past weekend we began our assault on the southern half of this country. Before our routine begins again with the start of the school year March 2nd, we caught some good music, were given an interesting gift courtesy of our accommodations, and saw some of the oldest and most incredible sights of Korean’s Buddhism history.

Seoul, as often as we visit there, still has surprises waiting for us. With the help of, fittingly, Rockstar Kim navigating the Korean website, Cass and I got our hands on some Jason Mraz tickets for Feb. 21st. Not only do I enjoy his lyrical stylings (he manages to pull off rhyming the word ‘words’ in three consecutive lines of a song- and makes it sound good… so stylings is the correct term), but pair that up with the fact that I am a bit partial to understanding songs I am listening to, made this a much anticipated evening for the both of us.

We spun in circles for a time on the subway, but got off at the Olympic park station, the venue was on the same grounds where 1988 Olympics were held. We first were accosted my mobs of Korean teeny boppers apparently already waiting for some Kpop band’s concert that evening, throwing the universal Korean, ‘you are so beautiful,’ and hugging us, before we were on a mission to find some lodgings for ourselves. Heck… I felt like the Kpop star for a second.

That became an adventure itself; one that took us on a tour of the monstrous section of city reserved for the games. I quickly came to realize this was a kind of Central Park-like oasis in the city. The park was a hub of activity, two apparently very popular concerts were going on, people strolled the sculpture park and around the lake, eating at the hip restaurants and coffee houses scattered around the park, and if you Youtube anything about championship rollerblading, you’ll most likely see young Koreans doing unimaginable tricks with their blades under the Olympic International gate of this park.

Over twenty years have passed since, gosh I don’t know, Carl Lewis? Jackie Joyner? Steffi Graf? (help me out on this one…I was just a pudgy seven year old at the time) walked these grounds, and I was amazed at the buildings; battered by acid rains and Manchurian winds, looked as if they were built only last year. I don’t believe it takes a rocket scientist to understand the importance of hosting an Olympics to a city or country, but it was an interesting angle to see what happens to all that effort once the global spotlight has moved on. It has not only provided infrastructure improvements almost any city could use, but, just as importantly, it increased the quality of life. I hope that is the case elsewhere.

Our search took us to a road we’ve noticed in many cities and have begun to call it Motel Alley. These aren’t the high end, chocolates on your pillow digs; these are a bit more towards the other end of the spectrum. Cass and I care little more about where we sleep than having clean sheets and a functioning toilet. Other than sleeping, we hardly occupy the rooms we stay in. What we stumbled upon, here, was on the end of the spectrum, so far towards the end, they have a spectrum all to themselves. I introduce to you… the Korean Love Motels.

Yes, they are exactly what they sound like, and, no, we had no idea. Don’t be scared, though, this isn’t some dingy back alley, red light district, you-feel-sinful-just-walking-down-the-street, kind of place. These are the far nicer, I’m tempted to say luxury, and even more willing to use the word classy in my description. Most importantly, they are far cheaper than any motel anywhere in the universe. Here’s how it went down…

Motel alleys are located just off the more populated and popular areas of cities. They are dense with every kind of accommodation. After we checked the price at a ‘hostel’ near the park and found it to be severely out of our price range, we went for a walk and found this area. Each motel has a very classy, dimly lit entry way, but at 3:00 in the afternoon that is a moot point. The receptionist usually sits behind a wall, or frosted glass that makes you bend over to make your broken Korean request through the money exchange half circle opening at the bottom of the window. After a price, usually between fifteen and thirty US dollars, you get your key.

This particular motel was polite enough to give us the most interesting of welcome presents, which made us both, instantly, put the puzzle pieces together. This key came sliding through the hole in the glass sitting on top of a bag. I glanced at it, saw some coffee sticks, a razor, and individually wrapped toothbrushes. ‘That was thoughtful,’ was my first notion, but closer inspection revealed a cornucopia of prophylactics. Ahh! Literally at the same time, Cass and I looked at each other, realizing where we were, that the urban legends did exist, and busted out laughing.

Passing a wall of interestingly titled movies, free rental of course, we got to our room. We opened the door to a see the lap of luxury. Things are often overdone here, and finally we’ve found a way to take advantage of it. There was a suede couch, 40 inch flat screen television, a personal computer for our use, ambient lighting… I can see the romantic side of this room, yes, but I can also see a great motel room in the heart of metropolitan Seoul for somewhere around twenty bucks! …and you get free toothbrushes and razors, what’s not to love (pun intended)?

I’ve never been to a concert in a different country before, let alone a non-english speaking country, so I was curious how things were going to go for Mr. Mraz (Mr. A-Z). This wasn’t his first trip to Korea; I think he came three times last year, and for whatever reason, he is quite the hit.

And deservedly so. His sounds pierced through the kimchi scent the instant his unique vocal cadences filled the Olympic Hall. The language shortcomings and consequential dead air time, was more than made up for as soon as music and his youthful abundance of energy erupted from the stage. He put on a stellar show. I encourage anyone to check him out.

The week was full of wasting time at school. This is the last week of ‘vacation’ before the students begin the next school year. I was lucky enough to have two days off, per the vice principal, during the week that I filled with absolutely nothing; the best kind of thing during the ubiquitous grey, murky, unmotivating skies lately. Cass on the other hand was subjected to creating useless things to fill her required eighty hours. It is surprising that everyone, me included, complains when they work too hard, but I found that having nothing to do at work could be even more taxing. Trust me, having nothing to do isn’t as much fun as it may sound.

Having all that time making you stir crazy, it gives you plenty of time to daydream about the coming weekend. The weather is getting a touch warmer, and also much more erratic (beautiful warm sunny one day and waking up to inches of slushy snow the next), so we decided to begin our exploration of the southern portion of Korea, an area we haven’t really delved into yet.

The city of Daegu was our destination, but it turned out that plans for being in the third largest city were short lived. We wandered around the famous and monstrous Seomum market, getting lost in the oceans of fabric piled to the ceilings (indoors) and the umbrellas (outside). It was truly a sight overlooking fabrics in every color, material, and design imaginable, stretching endlessly to the horizon interrupted only by the heads of tailors diligently making custom suits, dresses, and traditional Korean clothing by hand.

Outside of the market, we found ourselves in the middle of Any City, Korea, narrow streets lined with traditional shops and restaurants next to Dunkin Donuts and McDonalds. Street vendors worked underneath a labyrinth of spiderwebbed electrical wires leading to the never ending myriad of neon lights. We wanted to see something different than a scene we have out our apartment window. Gyeongju was just what we were looking for.

We pulled into the smaller town after an hour bus ride. It was instantly apparent to us this town was special. It was not the typical harmonious blend of east/west, modern/traditional that makes up the other parts of Korea we’ve seen. Nearly all the buildings were built of the traditional styles regardless of year built. This city was the capitol for the ancient Silla kingdom that came into being around 57 B.C. and ruled until around the year 940. Pretty old stuff; old enough to peak curiosity.

Yes, we continued our love motel tour of Korea, and, with guidebook and tourist map in hand, we hit the town. Gyeongju is categorized as the number one tourist destination in Korea, and deservedly so, yet I’m evolving a theory of an un-tourism industry in Korea. This town wreaks of millennium old traditions and structures, but very seldom did I see the rows of souvenir shops and meaningless trinket stores that try to capitalize on the influx of people. It’s as though they want people to come, learn, and cherish the old ways, but not really, either. It’s great, in my opinion, since I’m not a big fan of eye pollution.

We almost, literally, stumbled upon a park in the center of town full of ancient mounds. The Egyptians may have their pyramids, but Korea had its own version. Smack dab in the middle of town are numerous, huge burial mounds, some hundreds of feet high. Cass and I took a trail to the top of one when I was struck with the thought that we were walking on a 2,000 year old royal tomb. Have you danced on any graves lately? We didn’t spend much time there after that idea.

We walked to one of the oldest observatories in Asia, unimpressive by modern standards, but the inferred coincidences make you think a little. It sits on 12 stone blocks- the months of the year, is built with 366 blocks- a pretty darn good guess at the days in the year, there are 32 layers of stone- again, a good shot at the days in a month. Pair those up with the fact that it was built in the year 632, it is all fairly impressive.

Just beyond the observatory is Anapji Pond, which has its own unique back story. Built in 674, it was part of a temple that was destroyed during the Japanese occupation. That brings me to another side note… a common thread among all these historical sights we’ve been visiting, all include a line depicting its destruction at the hands of the Japanese during their occupation of the Korean peninsula (the atrocities they handed out at the old Seoul prison, destroying this temple, the list goes on and on). Back to Anapji, it was under renovation and reconstruction in 1974, after years of sitting in limbo, the pond was drained. Found there, were loads of historical artifacts from the temple sitting at the bottom, apparently just tossed in the water during its destruction. Things like a 97% pure gold crown spent nearly a thousand years underwater, now sit in a museum close to the pond itself.

The next day, we got up early and grabbed a bus into the mountains to hike up to Seokguram Grotto, one of the most impressive Buddahs I’ve seen yet, and the Bulguksa Temple, described as the ‘crowning glory of the Silla kingdom.’ We hiked the mile or so trail, more resembling a worn interstate, straight up the mountain, to reach the grotto. This was one of the coolest things I’ve seen.

Built in 774, this approximately 12 feet tall Buddha was in the middle of a circular room built into the mountainside. Some twenty or so magnificent carvings of other gods and guardians adorn the walls, and ceilings inside the rotunda and entryway. It is believed to be the protector of Korea because of its distinct position overlooking the ocean, which we couldn’t see on the day we were there. Walking into the viewing room, you are overtaken first by the sheer beauty of the structure, then seeing people, hands together in a prayer stance facing Buddah, the spiritual side hits you. It’s not just a sight you pay a couple bucks to gawk at for a few minutes; it’s the embodiment of people’s strong and long held beliefs. It was a wonder of ancient architecture, an overwhelmingly spiritual place, and one that screams respect no matter your denomination. We went back for seconds… and for an attempt at a picture.

Back down the mountain, we strolled through the Bulguksa Temple, first constructed in 528. It withstood two different Japanese occupations with only two burnt structures and several known artifacts gone missing. This temple has a dizzying wealth of designated national treasures. Bridges, pagodas (disappointingly, the particular one I wanted to see was under renovation), and stunningly gold Buddahs only begin the list. It never ceases to let my imagination wander when in these types of places. Thinking of the rich history of events, rulers, tragedies, ceremonies, and triumphs that happened right where you stand turns out to be so easy and vivid in my mind, it makes for a far more memorable experience.

On a side note, another bout of Yeoju magic struck Monday night. I had a welcome dinner for the incredible amount of new teachers at my school. I was in the middle of grilling some fantastic duagy galbi (pork rib) when I looked down the table to see Cassie taking a soju shot from my principal! Apparently, without her knowledge , her school had the same plans! It was yet another night of soju shenanigans, makju (beer) debauchery, and double the no rae bong action. In other words… heavenly…

School has begun; finally back in the swing of things. Things for me have definitely changed, not for good or necessarily bad (yet), but just very different. With 50% teacher turnover this school year, things are going to look and be very different. The night out was great for introducing everyone and I can tell there are just as many great and fun people inside the walls of Jumbong Elementary than before. I’m fortunate to have already struck a great relationship with many of the teachers, so there is a sense of ‘co-teacher by committee,’ even though Josephine is officially my co-teacher. Everyone has been great, and with Josephine changing schools, I don’t want to bog her down with any more work than she already has. When the large changes are a memory and all is said and done, I guess it takes a village to raise the children, doesn’t it?

I am especially happy, and I speak for Cass as well, to have school lunch again. My, no-matter-what-is-on-the-tray-one-of-the-top-corner-items-will-be-delicious theory (or adventure), still holds true. Sampling the mashinin Korean food has become a kind of past time for us, so not knowing what is in store for us every lunch just adds to the anticipation.

…and on a final note, if you have time, my Boracay article is now being featured on www.hackwriters.com as well as www.travelmag.co.uk.

Gamsa Hamnida!

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[Andrew Dunkle]

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