Asia » South Korea » Gyeonggi-do » Namyangju
July 20th 2009

Published: September 2nd 2009

Note: If you found this looking for advice / information on coming to Korea, check out Jess' other blog specificially made for just that purpose:
http://kimchiquestions.blogspot.com/

Hello again! It's taken some time to put this together making sure we were able to give you some more information about our new home. We know you've heard of South Korea - in fact, you've probably heard about it on the news lately in the form of a man who whooped Tiger in golf. Yes, Korea came into the spotlight for taking the world by surprise. I personally wouldn't be too shocked if this became a pattern over the next few years as Korea is holding quite the hand. (I am talking about South Korea of course, not the North which is inevitably all over the news & usually for negative reasons.)

We have now been living in South Korea for well over two months. Time just flew by, and we're trying hard to remember all the things that have already happened. We always seem to be moving. Getting up to go to work, working during the day, having "meetings" after school, going home, going out to eat with this or

that person/group of people, taking care of this or that 'thing' which needs doing. I suppose we have now settled many things which shouldn't have to be done again...

We have Korean bank accounts. Which were opened with a man who spoke very little English. He seemed to specialize in just a few phrases which were needed to open our accounts & we appreciated that very much. We of course know very little Korean & every time we try to pick up a new word discover that there seem to be so many different ways of saying something that, like a live fish flapping about, we never get a good grasp on before it manages to wriggle away. Needless to say, our Korean vocabulary is lacking.

Yes is 'nay' (which much of the time sounds like 'bay' or 'day'). No is 'ah-nee-yo' and stop here (to taxi or waiter) is 'yo-gi-yo'. We can say right (ah-rhun-jeuk) and left (when-jeuk), come here (eat-ee-wah), kids (ate-er-rah), whats your name (eat-amen-moy-oh), can i have (joh-say-oh) - as in "Can I have some water please?" = "Mool joh-say-oh". I call my co-teachers 'onni' which means older sister & Fran calls them 'nunna'

Reflection in the side of COEX

which also means older sister but from a 'brother' or boy. Oh and we can say 'goodbye' - to someone staying; ahn-nyuhng-hee-geh-seh-yo & to someone leaving; ahn-nyuhng-hee-gah-seh-yo. And since starting this blog (over a week ago!) I have managed to count to four. There is a difference though... hana = one, dool = two. If I want two of something I must as for 'doo-gey' or three = seht (seh-gey), and four = neht (neh-gey). Five was too hard for me to remember - I aimed for counting to three & four just rhymed so I added that on!

Our reading and writing should slowly be improving though as our co-teachers are helping us learn how to write words. We can now write our names (note: I had originally written our names here in Korean only to realize months later that it just shows a bunch of non-Korean symbols). One interesting thing about Fran's name in Korean is that there is no 'F' in the Korean alphabet (hence their difficulty in pronouncing them sometimes) - therefore Fran's name is actually "Prancis" & he was a bit upset to learn his name was even more feminine in Korea! I am

Across the st from COEX

now learning to write mom (Oh muh neh) dad (A bu ji) and Corey (my brother's name). Apparently a few hours of good hard work and you can get most of the reading/writing down, so we'll see.

We have Korean mobile phones. They are pre-pay which is nice as it means no contract. We just have to top up a bit each month to keep them registered. It would have been quite the fiasco getting one if not for the help of some friends. They brought us to a very interesting place called Techno Mart. It is literally 9 or so floors of technology. One floor specializes in cameras, one in phones, one in pdas, one in things like gps' etc. It is quite overwhelming but I know a few technology-oriented people who would have a blast spending a day inside that place (though they might never come out!).
Fran thought his mobile was an older version and then one day discovered that his phone also allowed him to watch tv (unfortunately all Korean stations) but it makes life a bit more interesting when you're riding the bus for long periods of time. (I also use it to practice

I'm pretty sure we counted about 7 lanes going in each direction - and this is central Seoul not the highway!

my Spanish as for some reason we get a Spanish channel on there w/ Korean subtitles...)

I already wrote about us getting our ARC (Alien Registration Cards), which we needed to get our phones among other things. We've now received our first pieces of mail - VERY exciting! And, most importantly we've settled into teaching.

When we first got here I had quite the scare. When asked to complete our first 'teaching assignment' I seriously second-guessed my decision to come here & wondered if I would even be able to teach. And the idea of coming up with our own curriculum with no place to start was a bit daunting. Now that we've taught some 4th grade classes and made it through a few 5th grade classes as well (with a curriculum we helped to plan!) I'm feeling much more confident. In fact, we were able to lay out the basic guidelines for our 2nd and 6th grade curriculums in about 15 minutes (it took WEEKS to plan 5th grade). And teaching at the summer camp has given us further ideas as well.

The names are always interesting. We had a boy who's English name was "Honey"

Bamboo reaching for the sky

(apparently it is close to his Korean name). We also had a girl named "Honny". Other interesting girls names include: Branda, Maibi (pronounced maybe), Jasmin, Sana, Rina, Sunny, Lion and Cherry. Boy: Jag, Hoger, Micle (we think this is Michael misspelt but he refused to change it), Anselmo, Enxcallpeals (we still aren't sure what this means!), AnJ, Shannon (yes a boy) and Robin (also a boy), Pinia (he said "like pinata" but he pronounced it like "Pina Colada"), Merry and Luky.

In one class last week we had an Ann, Anna and Annie - and they all sat at the same table! In the same class we also had a Julie and Julia as well as Alice C. and Alice S. (of course they were friends also). In the second grade class there were the twins Willy and his brother John (who had the part of 'Do' in the 'Do Re Mi' song and I found it hysterical - John Do 😊 This week we have a Louie, William, Petter and Harry Brown.
A few names that you will be more familiar with but seem so out of place in Korea: Albert, Felicia, Leticia, Avril, Rudy, Tory, Ethan and

Seoul Olympic Stadium (1988)

Allan (separate, not Ethan Allen).

The kids definitely make our lives interesting. Sometimes it is stressful; sometimes it is so easy we can't believe we get paid to do this. Our first week of summer camp we worked with first and second graders. They're adorable little terrors. They yell - ALL THE TIME. I've never wished to be deaf before. The second we were blessed to work the accelerated students who were much calmer and well-behaved. (Not to mention the fact that they actually understood at least SOME of what we were saying!)

Things We've Been Meaning to Tell You

On the train, when you get to a station which you can transfer (to another subway line) they play music. On one line the music is classical and Fran & I always joke that one day we will just begin ballroom dancing in the middle of the train. (They always stare at us anyway - at least then we would be having fun WHILE they stared!) My favorite line though (I think it is line 2) is the one that plays music which I can only describe as making me think "the wild West of Korea."

Han River

One day I will try to get around to recording it.
Also having to do with the trains is the sleeping... Men are almost always falling asleep on them. I fear it is an epidemic. People do it on the buses as well. Fran thought it was absolutely hysterical the way they don't just sleep - they PASS OUT. Arms askew and head lolling to one side... Until one day on a very long bus ride back from Costco, Fran joined their ranks. Head back, mouth gaping, and almost snoring at points. (He couldn't really do the arm thing with me sitting next to him and 6lbs of muffins on his lap.)
I actually wrote down when we were in China that the Korean version of siesta is to pass out on the bus/subway and the Chinese version of siesta is to pass out on a bench... or anywhere really. (We did find random Chinese passed out in strange places on our trip to Beijing.)

Many times since coming to Korea we have been eating something and someone tells us that it is very good for the skin. (I feel like its mostly been fish but I'm sure a

Han at sunset

few other things were in there as well.) I question it most of the time... And I know that science would agree some of the time. But, historically in Korean culture these things were eaten for these reasons & it has carried on. The irony of it is that women are the ones so concerned with eating these items. Eat lots of them and have great skin. Stay out of the sun at all costs, always keep your parasol at your side or use a magazine or anything really (I've seen women use something clear to 'block' the sun from their face) as long as you aren't in the sunlight. And then they go and pile on the number one selling cosmetic in Asia - whitening cream.
Morning, noon & night & quite a few times in between (every time you eat something) this must be reapplied. A friend of ours told us that on her teacher trip she was woken up early to get ready and discovered her co-teachers were up because they needed to spend 2 hours applying whitening makeup with the tiniest of brushes. I've come across women where the actual layers of application are visible! But,

One of the many bridges crossing the Han

that is the difference in our cultures.

Sometimes it feels like we create a lot of waste but at the same time we recycle 90% of what we throw out. It goes into cans for paper, plastic and glass/metal. Food gets thrown out in government-issued orange bags & any other waste goes into government-issued white bags. We've actually only used one white bag since we got here & are working on our second now. Not too shabby for the time we've spent here.

In our neighborhood (and we're sure many others) there is a guy who comes 'round at night yelling/singing. I call him our Korean Muezzin. (A muezzin is the man appointed to call Muslims to prayer.) That's exactly what he sounds like as he walks down the street calling you to buy his wares in a way that isn't a yell, but isn't quite a song either, and I'm sure a bit more pleasant that one or the other would be. (It is also much nicer than the man I refer to as the 'Communist Fruit Guy' who drives round in his truck with the same thing being belted out of the megaphones attached to the

top of the truck cab - something along the lines of, 'come buy my fruit come buy my fruit!')

Something many of you may also find interesting (and possibly wish they had in Western countries) are the etiquette bells. Yes, that is what they are called. I'd seen them many times. You nip into the loo and there they are, looking like an intercom on the side of your stall reading 'Etiquette Bell'. I was always so tempted to push it, and yet so afraid it was the alarm to call for help in case you slipped and got your foot stuck in the toilet or whatever it is people do in there which results in needing assistance. I finally asked my co-teachers yesterday and Katie says "Just push it and find out!" I figured, "Hey, why not? She told me I could!" And so I did. It made the sound of a toilet flushing. And then of water running. How pleasant. I suppose, more pleasant than the alternative...

*Things you need to know about - from Fran:

Something we have found a bit off-putting is the spitting. You could be lying in bed trying to fall

Getting dark but thats Fran walking down the path

asleep or at the dinner table eating, but as long as you have the window open you're bound to hear someone on the street hack one up & then you're left wondering "What just happened?!" They really put the effort in. And its not just men, sometimes you even see the women doing it!

Bowing. When we go to E-mart there is always a greeter (like Walmart!) and they bow really really slowly and say "Cahmsamneedah!" (Spelled that wrong on purpose but it is the pronunciation of 'Thank You') and then they stand back up really really slowly - like robots. Also the children at school bow to us when they first see us and we have to when we meet other teachers. This bowing is more of a head nod & has become an automatic reaction. In fact, the next time we see any of you we will probably 'bow' when we say hello before crushing you in a hug.
Another part of the culture is that when you hand or receive something you do so with two hands. And when you are drinking, you must pour for others but never yourself and you also do this with

two hands on the bottle (or whatever container) and the person holding their glass does so with both hands. Also to do with drinking... We only found out recently that when drinking with an elder that you should turn your head to the side when you consume your drink. I feel a bit silly finding this out so late on. Looking back at the teacher's trip I must've come across very rude when I was drinking looking right into the principle's face! But, he had a drink as well so he was probably happy & didn't mind.
When we do anything 'Korean' whether it be etiquette or using the language, the Koreans are very impressed and they get excited. At school the kids go nuts if we say anything to them in Korean. (Choyonghe - QUIET! is very popular with us.)

I find it very frustrating most of the time that people don't acknowledge you when you hold doors open - but over time I have had a few people say 'Thank you'. Many Koreans have a limited English vocabulary (though often it's more extensive than our Korean vocabulary) like "Have a nice day" or "Hello" but they are

View of Baekbongsan (san = mountain) from our window on a clear day

so friendly and welcoming when they randomly say it. (We have been walking down the street and someone we've never met before will walk by in the opposite direction and just say "Have a nice day!" and keep walking.)

Koreans are very affectionate people. Men and women will walk down the street holding hands (as in, two women holding hands or two men). And these are by no means couples. They are just good friends. Close friends are also very comfortable with hugging or leaning on each other, well, close friends or Korean men who have had quite a bit of soju. They are also very complementary (you will hear my encounter of this in the story of our teachers trip). Jess actually started to wonder if she had some competition once the Koreans got into the drinking!

Thanks to the concept of 'saving face' you barely ever see Koreans yelling. On the rare occasion you witness this, the person is usually a 'red Korean' (drunk - Koreans have a gene which makes them turn red when they drink & in some cases makes them unable to drink @ all) or just calling to get someone's attention. They

More san

are not a confrontational people either, but Jess has been bashed in the legs by older women with their bags. No one can explain this phenomenon but it has happened to other native female teachers as well, and always when there is a great deal of space around (as in, it wasn't an accident due to squeezing by).

Norebang. Going to a norebang is an experience everyone must have at least once. It is Korean karaoke. Or karaoke, Korean-style. Our experiences w/ norebang have involved being stuffed in a little room with soju, beer & lots of fruit and being forced to sing - by our fellow teachers & our principle. These rooms usually have couches around the perimeter with a table in the middle. They are darkly lit & have flashing lights, disco balls & speakers in all the corners. The lights are usually in time with the music. The videos however, are not. At least not for the English songs. We watched two Koreans break up (on the video) when we sang 'Bigger than my Body' by John Mayer - which has nothing to do with the song. One of the teachers got so carried away in

Beer brats & homemade hashbrowns

Trying to eat a combo of Western & Korean foods (not @ each meal of course!)

his drinking & dancing last time he knocked over an entire pitcher of beer & he hit the pitcher so hard that it smashed! And then our tiny little room was flooded. They are absolutely hilarious & we promise one day to take pictures for you to see.

Some short bits to add before I finish: Our toilet paper smells nice. We didn't mean to buy scented, but apparently its quite common. And people are much taller here than you'd think. I came here expecting to be massive! Whatever, I know I'm only 5'7". I went thai boxing last night and there were some BIG guys.

What We've Been Up To Of Late

Since coming back from China we've kept quite busy. Mostly with summer camp. Four weeks of camp to be precise, and unlike many of our lucky friends we did not work from 8:40am to 12noon or 1pm... no no, we had to stay until 4:40 every day. Oh well. Part of the reason for that was our schedule. There were four parts to the camp: Song & Dance, Math, Science, & Arts & Crafts. Jess taught Song & Dance (sometimes) and Arts &

Korean dinner

And yes that is Febreeze with a Korean label on the table!

Crafts. I wasn't too happy about teaching the Song & Dance as I had no idea how to teach songs and the first week was absolute chaos as I was thrown in front of a group of kids every morning having no idea what I was doing. After the first week though that changed and I mostly did Arts & Crafts (which I took part in planning the curriculum for & knew what was to happen). The topics were: My Daily Schedule, Travel, Harold & the Purple Crayon (1st & 2nd / 3rd & 4th graders) or If You Give a Mouse a Cookie (5th & 6th graders), and The Gingerbread Man.

For 'My Daily Schedule' the kids made sentences in English about their day & drew corresponding pictures. Travel involved vacation/holiday (I try to teach British & American English). The kids created travel brochures about a place they went or wanted to go. For 'Harold' I read the book to the kids, showed the video on YouTube and then they got to do what Harold did & draw the world the way they wanted it to be / created their own story using only one color. In 'If

Bimpbeimbop

you give a mouse a cookie' the mouse asks for something every time (cookie = milk = straw = napkin etc. until it comes back to cookie). I created blank book templates for the kids & they got to make their own stories. I saw some really creative ones - "If you Give a Tiger some Meat and Milk", "If you give a Monkey a Banana". And was pleasantly surprised at how wonderful the stories were. For gingerbread cookies we read the story of the Gingerbread Man, watched a video (as well as the 'Shrek' gingerbread scenes) and then the kids actually got to make their own cookies to take home / eat later.

Fran taught science. He was really excited at first & then frustrated to realize that all the ideas they'd asked him to come up with were kind of pushed to the side & he was told what to teach. The topics were: The Body, The Water Cycle, Volcanoes, and Light. For the body the kids created their own bodies complete with lungs, a heart, intestines, & spine. They drew their own water cycles & created their own volcanoes (out of clay!) which actually "erupted!" For

Curry

the class on light the students created shadow puppets which became the bane of Fran's existence for 4 weeks. They are interesting at first but after you've seen about three shadow puppet shows @ the presentation on Friday, you are pretty set for the rest of your life when it comes to shadow puppet shows!

As I mentioned before, the first week of camp was 1st and 2nd graders. It made us think we weren't going to be able to handle camp, but it was actually like getting the worst week out of the way immediately. The second week we had the 'talented students' (those who excel in all subject areas) from grades 3-6. So we went from the hardest week to the easiest week. Both the 3rd & 4th weeks we had one class of 3rd & 4th graders and then a class of 5th & 6th graders. It was quite the experience but I think we're all hoping the winter camp will be a bit different. That's ok though as it was this schools first experience with English camp and you have to start somewhere.

During the last few weeks of camp we planned the curriculum

Chamchee Kimbap

Chamchee = tuna. Kimbap is kind of the Korean answer to sushi though it can have many ingredients other than fish (egg, cheese, vegetable, beef etc.) and isn't raw. It is the perfect (healthy) snack to take with you on a hike or trip as its easy to eat while walking. I love it aside from the pickled yellow radish which I now ask them to leave out.

for the 2nd & 6th graders and really worked hard the last week to pull together the after school program. Again, we have to create the curriculum for and I'm starting to think we've taken on too much. We're also thinking that the people at our school really need to get a little bit more organized and plan ahead so that we can as well. But, somehow, we've done most of it. And if it all works out, our after school program will be quite the program...

Our after school program will have 4 classes. In order from lowest level to highest: A1, A2, B1, & B2. A1 & A2 will be held at the same time as will B1 & B2. (So Fran will teach one class with a co-teacher & I will teach the other with a co-teacher.) Two days of the week will be spent using the 'textbooks' with one of us. For the A's the other two days will be spent with reading books. We will read a story & complete an activity. If the students did their textbook work with Fran they would be doing the reading with me & will switch for the

Gingerbread cookies ready to be made!

next unit of the textbook. This is so that they are exposed to both types of English & do not get used to one or the other. The older students will be working with TOSEL books - studying for a Test of Studying English Language, but will also rotate between Fran & myself. On Fridays we have 'activity day'. The classes will be combined for this. Every other Friday they will do an activity associated with the virtual system (reading a script in English, etc.) On opposite Fridays they might have: sports day, English cooking class, a movie, holiday activities (for Halloween & Christmas), games day etc. We are calling this the English Immersion Program. I hope it is a success. Right now it is teetering on the edge & could go either way due to lack of time. I'm sure you'll hear how it all turns out.

Here I was tempted to write something like 'Next time on Fran & Jess in Korea....' or something equally corny. But I won't. I'll just leave it at that 😊 We hope you are all well & the weather is becoming pleasantly cooler as it has here. We love hearing from