Let's Get Outta Here: Escape to Busan

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My friend and I were in desperate need of vacation and agreed on an impulsive trip to the Southern Coast of South Korea. We took the KTX train to Busan (3 hrs from Seoul) and a flight on Korean Air for the return (40 mins to Gimpo Airport) using our hard-earned money to splurge away our hard-earned stress.

Don't get me wrong, working in Korea has many perks (like the pay, opportunities to travel, hilarious students that always make your day...), but it is also riddled with tiring obstacles (melodramatic office politics, disorganization, an educative system that needs revamping...).

We arrived late Friday evening and my friend's acquaintance picked us up. As a local, he knew all the hidden spots. In the span of an hour-and-a-half, he showed us every prime angle of Busan with the sparkling Gwangan Bridge (our host called it "Diamond Bridge") framed in the middle. The streets were quiet as the car silently sped along. We left the windows down, letting the humidity and salty air roll in.

When we saw the actual shore we were surprised at how calm the water was as it softly rippled on the sand. The half-moon added to the somewhat surreal atmosphere with its burnt orange tint. The buildings and streets were blinking neon colors like any other Korean metropolis, but the overall personality of the city was laid-back and slow-paced.

We checked into our hotel with a spectacular view of Gwanganlli Beach decorated with lanterns from previous festivities. I passed out on my bed while thinking how awesome it would be to NOT MAKE BED the next day, dammit. Despite the comfortable bed and plush pillows, I woke up early the next morning. Taking my time, I grabbed an instant coffee (if you live here, you'll find that instant coffee rules over coffee makers), and lounged on the chair while watching the sun rise above the bridge; it was a very cliched moment and it felt wonderful.

Oryuk-do

We had originally planned on hiking to Geumjeong Fortress that ends at the famous Beomoesa Temple, but upon hearing it was an hour away, we followed our host's recommendation to hike along a coastal path he had uncovered a year ago.

He led us along a 2-hour hike that ran next to the ocean. The water turned bluer, greener, and clearer as we trekked along. Most of it was easy-going with a few steep inclines. At the end, we looked out at the Oryuk-do (FiveSix-Islands) thus named because on an average day you see six of the rocky islands and on a foggy day you see five. I believe there are also ferries you can grab if you want to bypass the hiking.

It was the scenery during the hike that made the trip worthwhile for me. From fishermen to local families picnicking, barbed wire and u-forks (to set guns) for protecting against North Korea or any ocean-side invasion, and a rock-made hut where a local scuba diver lives and takes periodic samples of the water.

When we came out the other end, my friend and I were surprised by the unexpected luxury-apartment buildings that came into view. Apparently, many of them are empty because of the remote location. The apartments weren't enough to ruin the scenery because we were distracted by a field of sunflowers, instead.

We grabbed a bus back into town. A group of elementary schoolers boarded and we gave up our seats so they could sit down safely as the bus lurched on the bumpy roads. My legs were sore from the hike and my arms got sore from hanging onto the overhead bars swinging like a monkey.

When we returned to our host's car, he drove us to a local joint that serves Patbingsu (sweet red beans served over crushed ice) and Dahn Pat Juk (sweet red bean porridge). It doesn't sound as appetizing in English, nor does it look very appetizing, but we all ordered seconds. We were indebted to our guide for showing us so much within such a short span of time. I've begun to accept that it is very difficult to experience genuine local culture without a genuine local guide. It really does make the journey sweeter.

Decadent Pampering

I confess that I spoiled myself silly within the span of one weekend. My friend and I shoved away our guilt and dipped into our pocketbooks to book very expensive spa appointments at the Busan Lotte Hotel. The most I've ever spent (and will ever spend again) on a massage.

We were led down many hallways and stairs to the locker room where we changed into gowns. My friend and I felt uncomfortable seeing each other naked so we turned away from each other as we stripped down (I know, we're so prude). Truth be told, I had gone to plenty of Korean saunas up until high school and never got comfortable with strutting around naked in front of other women.

We were placed in a couple room and they brought in a divider so that we wouldn't see each other naked. Then the 2 1/2 hours began. The massage was heaven! I was previously certified in massage therapy and can say these ladies were professionals--from Swedish, Deep Tissue, Hot Stones, etc--they mixed various styles into the pampering. At one point, one woman was massaging my face (Korean facial massages are very unique and rewarding) while another massaged my legs. However, heaven stopped when the intense foot massage began. I was on the brink of tears as the woman ground into my feet (I could feel the gritting sound of "something"), but I stuck with it because I had heard that this type of reflexology work is often painful at the beginning.

Then, they added a "service" (this means complimentary whether you're in a restaurant or spa or anywhere else, it's just something extra on the house) and included a Fat Treatment as we found out afterward. I don't know if it was out of generosity or if it was a subtle hint (Koreans are infamous for giving blunt/subtle suggestions about other people's appearance and how to improve one's image). She grabbed my skin, fat, muscles and began wringing and elbowing and poking away!!! It was sooooo painful. My stomach tensed up and lurched as I braved through it. Now, I do recommend that it is usually wise to say something during a treatment if it is painful, but I held my tongue and tears to see if the aftermath was worthwhile. Meanwhile, I wondered what my friend was experiencing as I heard her snore on the other side of the divider.

When we were finished, they walked us out to the lobby and gave us drinks. My friend lauded her therapist with compliments and I asked her if she had experienced any of the pain, she said, "No, man, I fell asleep!" I decided I would never again pay so much for a massage.

Ordering the Special

We tried to rush over to the famous Haeundae Beach to see the Sand Festival's fireworks, but there were no such luck. The fireworks had been canceled because of the coinciding G-20 Summit at the Westin Chosun Hotel. Eh, I guess meetings on how to stabilize the world economy can outweigh an evening of fireworks. So, we told our taxi driver to keep going to a restaurant another acquaintance had recommended.

We were looking forward to some seafood, but were again let down when we realized the restaurant was not a seafood joint. Still, we were hungry and not willing to go searching for another restaurant. We ordered the special which was 25,000Won ($20.80) for the both of us.

We hadn't bothered to look at the details on the menu, and were surprised at all of the varying dishes that were carted over to our table. The two of us sat at a large table for 8 people, and the special for 2 people took up the ENTIRE TABLE (alas, I had left my camera at home at this point). We were delighted, then shocked when they returned again with another cart of different dishes.

We tried to clean up the smaller dishes, but there was no way we were going to finish everything. There was sweet eel, gamja tang (Korean beef ribs and potatoes), bosam (boiled pork with a special kimchi and lettuce wrapping), dwenjang chigae (soybean soup that is not as filtered as miso and full of vegetables), broiled fish, another seasoned fish (I think it was Pollock), rice that had been steamed in large bamboo and covered with hanji--a traditional Korean paper that is used for calligraphy--and mixed with dates and beans, and countless side-dishes and MORE!!! All of the dishes were organic and with no msg and you could taste the freshness!

We ate until we couldn't stuff ourselves further, then took a few more spoonfuls because we felt guilty about all the leftovers. We tipped them (which is something you never do in Korean restaurants) and insisted that they take the money because we were so grateful for the food.

We walked a few blocks down and grabbed a taxi back to Gwanganlli Beach. The taxi driver spoke to us in satori (the Korean "Southern" accent), which is a very playful speech. With his musical words, he teased us about our terrible Korean from being raised in the US, then proceeded to say that we must continue living in Korea for the rest of our lives. It was a very complimentary statement hinting that we are a part of Korea no matter our upbringing or generation, and this can be rare at times in Korea where mixed-Koreans, 1.5 generations (parents were born in Korea, children born in another country), adoptees, etc. can be viewed as "lacking" in some eyes.

Beautiful Gwanganlli

Back at Gwanganlli, my friend and I strolled up the beach to walk off our dinner. People were shooting itty bitty firecrackers in place of the canceled firework show. The bars and restaurants were full, and a man sang Arirang (traditional Korean song) next to the sand where he was surrounded by spectators.

One club proudly invited partiers into its WOMB, and I couldn't help but think the owner might suffer an Oedipus Complex. We stopped by a Japanese Bar to grab a few drinks. On the menu, they had Cucumber, Onion, and Green Pepper Soju. Due to some miscommunication between me and my friend, we ended up ordering a new flavored Japanese sake that comes in a can with 4%!a(MISSING)lcohol. The sake tasted like carbonated sodas, so we ordered some Hoegaardens to add some weight. The funky flavored soju will have to wait for another time. Enjoying the patio view of the Diamond Bridge, we chatted away.

It was the perfect end to a day that seemed to have lasted a week; now that's what I call a successful getaway from work. I grabbed a nice pink cotton candy on the way back to the hotel and we watched some Korean comedy on TV before passing out.

In the morning, we squeezed in some coffee at Tom N Tom's and grabbed a taxi to Haeundae Beach again to see the sand sculptures. To be honest, they were anticlimactic as I'd seen much more amazing and intricate sculptures years ago in Santa Barbara and Santa Monica (California). Still, I did like the perspective on the Buddhist Temple and the colored sand on a particularly long sculpture.

Finally, we grabbed our final taxi to Gimhae Airport. There were no lines for ticketing or boarding, and the 40 minute flight wasn't enough time for me to snooze, so we were back in Seoul's Gimpo Airport before we knew it. My friend directed me to the Information Desk to find a cheap bus that would take me back to my neighborhood (money-saving time, once again; vacation over).

Two days later, my mind is relaxed (though still unmotivated for work), my stomach is still in some pain (I felt like a punching bag the next day) and I lost 2 pounds which I credit to the hike. While working in my office with the windows open, the occasional breeze reminds me of the ocean. I am definitely ready to be out of here and onto some more traveling.

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Photos

Busan
The spot for taking this photo was like a lovers' lane with a gorgeous view of Busan and the burnt orange moon our first night.

Pebbled Walkway
Part of our hiking trail. It's supposed to be like acupressure.

Me and the Diamond Bridge
grainy shot