If Paradise Has a Food Court


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Asia » Singapore
July 11th 2008
Published: July 10th 2008
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Full Laksa AssaultFull Laksa AssaultFull Laksa Assault

In Chinatown's hawker stall center, Jordan stains his replacement wardrobe with a similarly vibrant shade - Laksa, a Singaporean specialty.
Things have gone downhill in Singapore. We were expecting Utopia. After reading all our lives about its impeccable manners and strong stance on various social foibles, we were horrified--horrified!--to see a gum chewer and several jay-walkers within hours of arrival.

Jordan's bag decided to do some sightseeing in Beijing for a bit longer, but Air China graciously gave him S$73 for the inconvenience. Suitably paid off, we boarded the MRT (gum chewer!) and headed into the city as the rain pounded down. The Hilton broke protocol (scandalous!) by letting us into our room early, and we immediately dropped what bags we had left to head right out to explore.

Before setting out, a paranoid Jordan sprayed his wife's calves with 100% DEET, resulting in the first injury of the trip and excellent usage of our meticulously packed medical kit to cure Lindsay's impressive leg rash. But we were undeterred.

We've now walked most of the city/country, exploring everything ranging from Colonial Hotels, adjacent Hindu and Buddhist Temples, and unbelievably advanced shopping malls. We feel part of the past, present, and future here in Singapore, simultaneously.

More importantly, a New Yorker article correctly convinced us that though the sights might be limited in Singapore, we should eat our way through the city. And we have! Consumed items include: breakfasts of fish curry, roti, hardboiled eggs, and delicious coffee with condensed milk; samosas; the most amazing steamed pork buns on the planet; dumplings; laksa, a spicy seafood noodle stew; chicken biryani; and a syrupy over-rated Pimms-esque monstrosity of a cocktail: the Singapore Sling. And that was just in one day!

We have a couple hours left before heading to Lombok, and we intend to eat as much as we can before then.



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