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Flew into Clark Field on an Air Asia flight from Kota Kinabalu - runway after runway greet you as you taxi to the small and simple budget airline terminal building. You can only wonder how the airfield must have thrived with activity during the Vietnam War years with fighter jets and bombers departing and returning on one of those wasteful and misguided American imperial forays to deliver democracy by terror. To get into Angeles from Clark without having to pay an exorbitant fee, walk to the exit gate of terminal area. You are still within Clark but jeepneys ply the access road here and for around 10 pesos + or - you can flag one down and get into town - or should I say Fields Avenue. Whilst the airfield has long dimmed, the sex industry that kept the airmen entertained when not flying is still bumping and grinding away. Fields Avenue is go-go land with girlie bar after girlie bar touting for business 24/7. Its a good night out, even though I never ventured into any of the go-go bars. Instead I found a disco with free entry and reasonably priced drinks - 85 pesos for a Red Horse. The
music was pumping and to find a dancing partner you only had to gyrate on the dance floor and someone would appear before you. The night passed quickly with the galloping horses and I stumbled back to my Wobbly House pension in the wee hours. The only way to make the Wobbly House bearable is to drink Red Horse - but at 450 pesos a night, you cant really complain about the price. The other good thing is that the room is so bad, you wouldn't even consider bringing a dancing partner back - so again you save.
My plan had been to rent a motorbike and ride up to Sagada. But with a hangover, this idea slipped from my mind and hence I just meandered into Manila in the afternoon. Caught a Philippine Rabbit bus to Dorotea Cruz LRT where its a simple ride to Pedro Gil and Malate area. After hunting for a inexpensive hotel, scored a deal at Manila Manor where 2nd night is 50% off. That made a nightly rate for 2 nights 1,500 pesos - 3 times the price of Wobbly but 10 times the comfort. Malate and especially the immediate area around Remedios
Wobbly courtyard
the tools are there but repairs are never done Circle is much more my scene than Fields Avenue. The nightlife pulses in the outdoor street cafes and music bars but without the obvious sleaze of Angeles. Its all here though and you don't even have to go looking for it - if yr single and in town, it comes to you. I wandered down the street and pretty soon was being entertained by 4 women, sharing a beer balloon with me. Good clean fun that could get quickly unclean if you wanted to venture that way. I just liked the convivial atmosphere and kept it that way but had a most enjoyable evening, carousing around Manila town.
Woke up with yet another hangover but capable enough to continue my meanderings. I wanted to get back to Intramuros and this time find Fort Santiago. I also wanted to find a bakery there I had come across on my last trip that sold the most delicious buns. After wandering down the cobbled stone streets and admiring the old world charm of old manila, I did find it - it was as busy as ever - people queuing but the buns were perfect. Intramuros and the walls surrounding could be a
highlight of a Manila trip but its just wasting away - no real effort at preservation, no real effort even at tourism promotion. But this old walled section of Manila is as good as most walled enclaves in Europe. It has so much charm, just needs tourists and vibrancy.
Staying in Manila and whiling away the afternoons and evenings in bars was not what I was in the Phils for. Had to get out of town - since I had already gone south instead of my initial plan to the north, further south was on the agenda. But I wasn't feeling overly adventurous so just hopped a bus out of town and got off at Lucena. I had seen a tear shaped island on my map and thought its close enough and far enough removed from the travel crowd to check it out. So after a pleasant evening in the small but friendly city of Lucena, caught a ferry to Marinduque.
From the arrival port, its a van ride along the coast to main town - Boac. This place is certainly untouristed, very laid back - no great beaches but lively market, cheap accommodation and pleasant vibes. The
Intramuros tourist coach
if only the government would develop this area, it could become a world heritage site like maybe even dubrovnik hotel I stayed in (cant remember name) had a rooftop bar and restaurant that captured the whole town - it is only small ha. to explore an island, you need a motorbike. So how to do this, none for rent in Boac but I caught a local bus heading further down the coast and in a small town, spotted a Euro guy with a motorbike, so immediately confronted him. He was living on the island and the bike was his but he did suggest going to a small resort further along where I may be able to rent a bike. Off I went with quiet confidence and sure enough I talked my way into scoring a motorbike - woohoo. Son now I could really explore the island.
Next day set out on a circumnavigation. Back down south to Buenavista, then up into the interior around the volcano that forms the central mountain range and back down onto the eastern coast where there are decent beaches. At one - think it is called White Sands (how original), the locals were out in force partying at lunchtime with food and drink. Of course I had to join in. Now riding a
little wobblier but still in control as I worked my way up the coast to Santa Cruz (site of a major environmental mining disaster) - town is still a bit of a wasteland. Then back over the hinterland ranges again to Boac - the island is now mine - I know it
Could have gone further south, island hopping but thought that the further I get away from Manila, the longer its going to take to get back to catch my flight - limited time scale. So, best option was to go back to Manila and head north to Baguio - that way I do get some way north and also am within easy reach of Clark Field for return flight. Seemed a pretty sound plan so i bade hasta manana to the lovely Marinduque and headed back into the pace of Manila.
I enjoy Manila, its brash and energetic - not pretty though there are pockets like Intramuros and the area around Remedios Circle, even Eastwood. But Manila never fails to get the senses pumping - the food, the music, the street vibrancy and the bars - especially LA Cafe or Manila Cafe as I understand it
is now called. This has to be the best bar in the world - not for a quiet drink or a scenic setting - purely for the fact that its open 24/7, always full and the clientele - though not everyone's cup of tea ha
But after a night in Manila, its a bus to Baguio - into the mountains. The cordillera rises dramatically from the flat plain north of Manila and Angeles. As you ascend, the air cools and you Asia seems to dissipate in the mountain scenery - totally different world of trees and clean air as you forage in your bag for a sweater or coat. Baguio is built in a valley and surrounding hills - its steep and deep, stayed in a mountain style lodge/hotel, reminiscent of Katoomba. Visited the American base up in the hills, wandered the town, taking in Burnham Park, the live music venues, the street food in the evening and wishing I had time to continue on to Sagada.
But it wasn't to be, after 2 enjoyable days and nights in Baguio, it was back down to the heat and sleaze of Angeles. At least the Red Horse was cold
as I waited to catch the plane back to Borneo and plan my next Philippine journey - August this year (beaches and islands)
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zoe
non-member comment
boracay?
why i can't seem to find your blog about boracay?