Motorcycle Diary


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Asia » Philippines » Cebu
January 29th 2009
Published: February 16th 2009
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Motorcycle Diary

It all began Saturday morning, our quest to conquer Cebu Island on a hired 125 motorbike nicknamed ‘The Hog’. I met up with John, grabbed a shot of an espresso at the Fashion Café and we headed out. The mission started on Mactan Island where we are located, we rode passed the small towns, Cebu airport, crossing the bridge over to Cebu city. I was being the typical tourist in a new country taking loads of photos to capture the scenery and everyday lifestyle for the Filipinos or also known as ‘Cebuyans.’ Cebu/Mactan is centered in the middle of the Visayas, which is a section of the Philippines speaking primarily Visayan, English, and Tagalog. Everywhere we go people are able to speak English, they say hello, wave, etc. I’ve been told everyone speaks English here but I didn’t know to instill the fact that everyone literally does speak English as if it’s their mother language right along side Tagalog.

Once we crossed the bridge, we entered into the city joining the brigade of motors, intertwining the streets and filling the air around us with smoke and debris. Certain parts you can consider 3rd world if
Cebu viewCebu viewCebu view

At the Tops overlooking Cebu city, the beginning of our journey.
you didn’t know any different or didn’t see any different, but coincidentally enough it’s considered one of the nicest cities here in the Philippines. John mentioned going to the top of the mountain range to a place called the Tops that looked out over Cebu city. It took us about an hour to get to the top from the city passing areas with interesting names such as Beverly Hills. Noticeably the Philippines have a strong Spanish influence being conquered by Spanish conquistadors in the 1500’s, so as we were gallivanting around in the city, three different languages were being displayed on signs, churches, street names, so on and so forth. Beverly Hills is far from Spanish, but it sticks out like soar thumb nonetheless.

After John and I managed to get out of the city and into the mountains, our air supply seemed to have been less infested with the lingering smog penetrating our lungs, and the smell of burning trash. That is one thing that has been difficult to adapt to more so then anything, the humidity combined with the vast array of distinct aromas. I thoroughly enjoy the country so far but the dreadful smoke and openly display of pollution I can do without. The ride into the mountains was and literally is a breathe of fresh air. During our ride up to the Tops we saw a bunch of cyclists touring around on Colnagos, Treks, and other name brands keeping in shape and enduring the humidity. Villagers and cyclists doing double takes as we pass by, the children waving hello to us as if we are the next best thing known to chocolate, Jason Statham and Demi Moore. I’m no celebrity back home, but to them, it’s a once in a full moon appearance of seeing someone different.

When we got to the Tops, the view overlooking the city on one side and the mountains on the other is nothing less then exhilarating. The exotic beauty that is understated in regards to the Philippines is something more breathtaking then one could imagine. It reminds me of Hawaii of how exotic the scenery is, the clouds perched right at the top of the highest points, the serenity it brings and a sense of calm that fills the air around us. The particular area that we went to has a memorial dedicated to the public with a bunch of plaques made for purchase if you want to leave your name for others to see. The memorial is circular with walls surrounding the tower that sits in the middle and which in a way reminds me of the Eiffel tower only a lot smaller and with white paint. John and I also decided to be complete hams and model on our fabulous rented 125 cc motorbike, ‘The Hog,’ that we entrusted with our life to get us around for the day. I think we did a good job posing and for that, I think the place where John rented it from should have our photos on display.




As we drove up the road to another location on the mountain, we passed by a bunch of locals crowded around a volleyball court. A few Pinoys were playing volleyball on top of a mountain in a completely remote location with nothing around but landscape. As we passed by, they waved hello to us with smiles and I mentioned to John how cool it is to see locals living a simple life playing volleyball. After a quick ride to a pay station to see the other side and a decision to not pay 100 pesos to see what we already saw at the memorial, we jumped on the bike and headed back on the road passing the volleyball game being played along the way. John and I had the inclination to partake in the game so we turned around, parked up, asked if we could play for a bit, got the go ahead with a joyful response and we were in it to win it.

The weather wasn’t too pleasant that day and because I’m known to be a genius, I decided it was in my absolute best interest to wear white capris when getting ready for the trip. Brilliant. So along with playing volleyball, the rain, mud, and no socks, I figured I might as well make the best of it and get dirty. How often can I say I was playing a sport at the top of a mountain randomly on a Saturday morning in a country 6k miles away from home? John was on the other team and we played up until 5 points before we carried on with our exploration of the island. I admit, I’m terrible at volleyball but for some reason, I find it far more appealing to play then any other activity that requires a ball. With that being said, I will live my life vicariously through beach volleyball players because I’m somewhat useless, but amusing to watch. I nearly fell off the side of mountain once trying to retrieve the ball and John actually did take a swan dive once attempting to hit it (as I’m cracking up laughing typing this). To his defense, the swan dive only defined his true athleticism and intensity to the nature of the sport (laugh out loud). Once we reached the 5 point winner takes all title, we were much obliged by their generosity, took a few group photos and we were on our way. Sadly enough, I don’t have that title to brag about, so you know how good I am.


As our journey continued, John said he intended to ride down to the most southern point of the island, as there were waterfalls there from what he gathered in a guidebook. We weren’t quite sure where we were going, but we were going somewhere. Riding through the mountains on this Saturday morning adventure
Barber shop and karaokeBarber shop and karaokeBarber shop and karaoke

This is the village we stopped in to have a meal and John singing karaoke.
seeing Cebu disappear behind us, watching the rain start to fall on us on a bike with absolutely no tread on either tire, slippery roads, cows carrying about their business on the side of the roads, goats eating grass, families sitting all together in villages secluded from the outside world, the seldom basketball court, volleyball court and even at times a communal pool table, not to mention the karaoke machines that highlighted these far and away communities, we conversated how at times we wish our life was simple as theirs. Then again, our lives aren’t too shabby and I for one am not complaining because I have been very fortunate to do the things I’ve done. It’s humbling to see how much they go about their day to day living as simple as it is, not wondering about anything else but their small community, family, having a place to worship, food to eat, and games to play.


During our second part of the journey, in the midst of seeing villages scattered alongside the road that of changing faces, a sudden gated track home community appeared to the left of us with Christmas decorations still up and in
the mealthe mealthe meal

5 * dining baby.
front of us is a fork in the road with a sign that said, “Veterans Way Road.” Directly in front of us lies a small house for security and another to the right of it saying reception with access to walk around a garden open to the public. We weren’t quite sure where we wanted to go so John went to ask for some advice and of course the workers spoke English and clearly mind you, telling us the original place we had intended to visit is too long to get to by motorbike, instead to head towards Toledo which is directly on the other side of Cebu riding straight through the mountains. The receptionists said it was about 40km away so we figured if we can’t make it to the very bottom of the island then let’s see how much ground we could actually cover for the day. After mapping out our next destination, a couple of quick photos jumping in the air, toilet runs, and some rain on our two-man parade, we saddled up the hog, threw on the helmets and head out.


By this time it was around 11 am maybe around 11:30 am,
Cows are commonCows are commonCows are common

It was all too frequent you would see cows and goats tied up on the side of the road just standing around and feeding. It was quite funny.
we kept riding along on the road to a destination unknown when we both decided we wanted to eat at some village and satisfy our hunger pains with authentic villager cuisines. We pulled over at a village, don’t know the name of it, but it was the village with the sign that said ‘barber shop’, the communal karaoke machine, one store, and one little restaurant serving food. I wouldn’t even call it a restaurant nor would I call it a shack. Big enough to butcher animals in the back, serve in the front, frames of the last supper, an old school speaker which I think is meant for karaoke use, a woman breast feeding her baby, and three tables ready to be used. This particular village not many spoke English and it didn’t sound like Visayan they were speaking. They asked us in their native tongue what we would like to eat and as polite as we are, we just nodded yes, smiled, looked through the pots that were on display and hoped for the best. John being a brave lad, bless his heart, was man enough to eat chicken feet soup, along with the rice, and fresh meat. The
In the cloudsIn the cloudsIn the clouds

Literally riding right through the clouds on top of the mountains. So neat and sadly enough, the photos really don't do justice.
meat was freshly chopped , and we weren’t quite sure what kind it was nor were we sure we could even stomach what was in front of us. I heard John’s teeth crack a couple times while he chewed on the rubbery pieces which I guess had surprises in it, I think I ate a few pieces but mainly stuck to the rice, didn’t want to chance potential dental work or a trip to the hospital. After the meal, we of course, took full advantage of the karaoke machine just right outside the place we dined.


Standing alone facing at the edge of the village next to five men sitting around smoking cigarettes stood the karaoke machine. John took the initiative to grace them with his American Idol talents of singing and performing so for 5 pesos, you get two songs to sing with and a score at the end. With aspirations in his eyes, and the crowd waiting in anticipation, me behind the camera and my heart pumping with nerves, he took us all by surprise with his profound ability to sound closely like the real deal, “Candle in the sky” by Sir Elton John. For a moment there I thought I was actually watching Elton John. Then, with the excitement built up and the crowd going wild, he performed again only this time it was Ace of Base ‘I saw the sign’. It was brilliant, hands down. Although I am stretching the truth when I say the crowd was going wild because it was more like the few that were sitting around looked at us in despair. So, we looked at each other and both agreed it was our queue to leave and carry on.

The two of us carried on for about another hour and half traveling through the mountains, in the rain again, making quick pit stops to pet cows, and take photos. We slowly started making our decent from the small two-lane road from the quant villages in the sky down towards the sea to a town called Balamban. There, John and I stopped for a half hour to check out the map, locate where we were, use the toilet, and grab a quick drink. Speaking of toilet, this toilet was an experience to remember that I’m inclined to recite. John had asked where there was
Dork shotDork shotDork shot

It's always needed in a batch of photos.
a toilet for him to use, and the guy who was working showed him where to go which was located behind the store. When he came back, I asked him how was it and he gave me a funny looked saying it’s a bit dodgy. I really needed to go, so I grabbed my roll of toilet paper, asked for the restroom and was directed towards the back of the shop. Well, the toilet was an outhouse between two homes that were cousins to the guy who was working at the store, who again, spoke perfect English. Just around the corner was an open door to somebody’s kitchen, and I’m using the family out-house, peeing hoping no one comes to intrude. When it was all said and done, I walked out, geared up to get back on the Hog and continue onto the next town of Toledo.

We were finally out of the mountains and riding along side the sea, watching people as they passed along side on tricycle taxi’s, jeepneys, men sitting around smoking cigarettes while women tended to their children. Actually, back at Balamban as distant as it was from Cebu and Toledo, I saw two Caucasian men cruising around on a bike and in car, far more then any other place I’ve seen yet. I was quite shocked to be honest, but you never know what you are going to see and experience when you’re in a far off land. Driving along side rice fields, taking it all in as usual before coming up into Toledo which was our turning point to head back towards Cebu. As we turned left onto a semi-busy road with a throng of people standing around on a Saturday afternoon, we found ourselves wondering if we were even going the right way. Some people told us we were heading back to Cebu, so we just went with what they were saying and carried on. At one point we reached a fork in the road saying Talisay City and Naga, All we can do is ride on like two lone rangers riding our trusty steed off into the distance.



To get back to Cebu, there are only two lane roads and even at times the road is a bit dodgy to drive on, I’m talking cobble stone, dirt roads. When we choose to take the way to
Rice fieldsRice fieldsRice fields

Directly across the sea side.
Talisay City, it started back through the mountains only this time we were riding directly through as oppose of riding on top. Again, the villages were small and the journey only continued to be the same thing every time with minor distinctions that set it apart from the village before. We continued to carry on robotically as the expedition seemed never ending, until we spotted a flea market blasting Flo-rida’s “Get Low” and no one around to buy anything. I told John we should turn around and check what’s in store for us at this Saturday afternoon gala that didn’t seem too appealing to the local community, but for us being the goof balls that we are, it was a perfect situation to make asses of ourselves again.


As we pulled up to park, all eyes were on us as if we were sent from above or from a far off distant land (which we were) and it had to been the most eventful experience in the joyous wonders of typical lives within this particular town. The music was loud and the bass was pumping, the workers sat around chatting amongst themselves while John searched for the perfect 4th hand jacket for sale and I moved my booty in ways they probably never thought was humanly possible, I’m no Michael Jackson but I have skills none the less. We modeled the jackets around and gave them a show, posed for a few photos, then, John proceeds to buy three more on top of the two we were wearing. He figured he’d give them to his marketing department squad for them to wear to unite them even more with fashion sense and team colors. Once they were thrown in the bag and the purchase was final, John and I continued on.


We took a few great photos along the way to capture our exploration along this road that eventually will led us to Cebu. We took a photo of children playing in a communal bath that was neat, and children walking alongside a road at another village at the very bottom of the mountain range who were excited to see us. We stopped and took a photo of the kids waving, laughing and being a bit bashful, in our snazzy jackets mind you, before entering on a dirt road into trees right thru the mountain
Kido'sKido'sKido's

I had to take a photos with these kids, they were just too damn cute and excited to see us.
range. We were getting fairly low on fuel and from where we were; there was no gas station in sight as it was nestled in the middle of a forest that was actually refreshing from the humidity. Luckily, there was a store that sold fuel in bottles so we pulled up and bought some fuel, then continued on with our journey. The road leading back to Cebu was nothing less then spectacular and though I could continue to write about it, it would take me a lot longer then what I’ve written already. I told John this adventure has to be in the top 10 of my most memorable experiences just because of the long journey we took, braving the rain, riding through some of the terrain and meeting people along the way. After another hour of strolling through the mountain range, we finally made our way back into the complete mundane lifestyle of a city full of infinite bodies, and hectic minds working away as if it was clockwork while we carved our way back to reality.



When we finally made it into south Cebu, John and I weren’t too sure which direction led us
The endless roadThe endless roadThe endless road

A shot of riding in the mountains through the trees.
to Cebu city, so after twenty minutes of riding down a semi-busy road, we stopped to look at the map and to get directions. Well, my bum was hurting so bad from the ride, I had to buy a shot of Tandauy to kindly ease my mind. We walked over to an open-air makeshift store lot where people stood around playing with puppies and hanging out. I asked for a bottle of Tanduay, which I bought and we had a laugh with the locals because they were amazed to see John and I. They asked if I was a model and I said yes, so one of the older women decided to take a photo of me and her as well as me getting an image of them. It was cool, we laughed and giggled, I drank my shot before hopping onto the bike again heading towards Cebu city. We jumped onto the main road that lead us to the city and I was so very glad I took that shot of Tanduay because instantly I felt chirpy to carry on with no complaints. LOL We rode along side the sea and John mentioned to check out the famous church
Tanduay stopTanduay stopTanduay stop

This is my bottle of magic potion that eased my pain, or kept me from thinking about it.
of Magallanes who is extremely well known to the Filipinos here as word has it he contributed to establish life here and seeing that Catholicism is widely worshipped, it was good for us to see. Once we got into the city, we found a place to park, walked over, and went into the cathedral. I paid my respects of praying even though I’m not Catholic, I felt it was an obligation of mine to respect what we came to see. Soon after I finished, we walked around, hit the public restroom at Chow king and onto Ayala mall to meet up with some other people from Bigfoot.

As crazy as it sounds, riding the city was quite fun as I was on the back of the bike texting my friend, Mike, who use to live in LA but now lives here in the Philippines in Cagayan de Oro. I found it hilarious that John is weaving in and out of traffic and I’m on the back not even paying any attention to what’s going on because I’m too busy with my text. I can honestly say for those who may find it completely irresponsible to do, when you
Entering mayhemEntering mayhemEntering mayhem

The crazy streets of south Cebu city.
get use to riding a motorbike whether it be a scooter, or actual street bike, even a bicycle, you become so accustom to that means of transportation, you don’t find it dangerous nor scary because that’s the way it is here and you have no choice but to teach yourself how to stay on regardless of what you are doing. You can often times see 3-5 people on bike including babies. So I know when my mother reads these she will probably want to have a heart attack but really, it’s just everyday normality texting and doing other things when you’re dodging cars as if you’re in a video game.

We were meant to meet some of the people at Ayala mall to watch a movie together, the new Underworld movie that came out. When we finally arrived, my buzz was quickly fading away as we entered the mall. We met up with about 5-6 people at the theatre, got our tickets, sat down, probably watched a good hour of it before receiving a text from some of the others saying they thought it was so bad, they actually left to get coffee. So the guys I was
Magallanes ChurchMagallanes ChurchMagallanes Church

Paid my respects
with including myself decided to leave too since we weren’t sure if everyone actually left. We met up at a coffee shop waiting for everyone to gather up before heading over to TGI Fridays for some drinks. I was so hungry from the journey that I ordered food instead of drinking anything. John took off early to return the bike back the rental place on Mactan while I stayed with the rest. This time it was about 9pm at night, and though I thought I was up for going out that evening to dance, as soon as I got into the cab and headed back to Mactan, the second I got into my room, I laid down onto my bed and that was the only place I was making an appearance at for the rest of the night. I was spent.

Overall, John and I made the absolute best of the day and really covered a wide array of scenery, villages, people, roads, etc…. the list goes on. It was great to hang with someone who wasn’t afraid to set out on a journey of the unknown for foreigners such as our selves, and really get a feel of the island. Well worth the all day trekking, the numbing of my bum, the ridiculous jackets we bought, and even ending it at the mall. John was good fun and a good laugh, that to me makes a trip that much more amusing when you are able to step out of your comfort zone whether it be with someone else or even alone, remembering who you are and what makes you happy, what keeps you humbled, and what you are thankful for. You can do 5* or 1* accommodations of traveling, I personally prefer getting down and dirty with the rest of them because it only enables you to share thrilling stories to others and doesn’t take away from the person you are. I for one, am just an everyday normal person who, yes has traveled a fair bit then most that I know, finds serenity in documenting where I’ve gone. To me, life gives you opportunities and one should always take full advantage of it with appreciation and with the way the world is operating today, who knows if you will ever get the opportunity again.



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