Blogs from Pakistan, Asia - page 23

Loose lonies: Although Karachi is a sea harbour, there are no seagulls. Instead, there are hundreds of buzzards. Pakistan has a male dominated social order. Very few women are seen on the streets and only evenings some do their shopping. It is not generally acceptable to sit next to a woman in busses and taxis. Close to 75% of marriages are arranged and social contact before marriage is very uncommon. The Land Rovers we met all had Goodrich tyres and had experienced very few if any punctures while we, travelling along the same bad roads like in Ethiopia and Georgia, gained a great deal of experience repairing our Goodyear tyres. We did our best but could not find dishwashing liquid in Pakistan. Nor Western style herbs and spices. ... read more

11 October 2007 Today I reached the Chinese border at the Khunjerab pass. The last couple of km I was accompanied by a member of the park security force. From about 4000m we climbed rather fast to 4750m over a distance of 18 km. Getting out of the car was OK, but once on my feet I felt rather dizzy. It was not as cold as I expected, but that was partly because of the sun. The reflection on the ice was dazzling. We were about to turn back when, from the Chinese side, a car rocketed up with a load of Chinese tourists. Of course pictures had to be taken and a few pleasantries exchanged, and then we started the short distance back to the security base, situated at the Chinese side of the Khunjerab ... read more

Pakistan solo When I left Quetta, I was determent to leave a part of my life - and Ann - behind. Before I could go though, we had to finalize a few things that had cropped up at the last moment: proof of life for the SVB (my pension) and permission to drive the car, which is in Ann’s name, out of the country. That done though, after the usual hold-ups and misunderstandings, I was finally free to leave. A last picture, a fare-well and off I was, promptly going in the wrong direction. That was soon corrected though, and I hit the road to Kalat. It was still light when I stopped at an all night filling station with restaurant, an establishment where hot meals were dispensed out of large pots and one could choose ... read more

Seriously. First it was with all the hype before she arrived; then the blast in Karachi that killed all those people; then over in Rawalpindi, the streets lined with an assortment of posters with pictures of her: devoutly praying with eyes closed in ecstasy and her hijab casually slipped on to her shoulders (a statement in itself); with a mount half-open in admonition and looking quite stern, usually with floating faces of two other dudes (probably supposed to appear noble and leader-like, but only managing to look well-groomed and well-fed). I think it's ridiculous that they're obviously trying to portray her as good-looking: vote for BB; she's getting on in years, but she's still a real looker! And then, the final straw... I'm running on perfect timing. My daypack fits everything I think will be essential ... read more

I guess the excitement began in Yazd, Iran, where all and sundry warned me about the road to Pakistan. You know about the Japanese tourist abducted while walking to the Arg from his hotel in Bam? In Bam, in Iran! Now just imagine the next 24 hours or so before you get to Quetta, through the lawless desert, the Baluchi and Afghan drug smuggling tribes and across the truly awful Taftan desert. And to reach where? Quetta, singled out on the Warning Pages as exceptionally dangerous and a "definitely don't go" zone. A little real traveling doesn't do anyone any harm, though. Especially after the past week of tourism, staying at nice hotels, eating at touristy joints, drinking tea for 1000 toman a pop, and taking taxis across town. Not that I minded it too much: ... read more