Trekking in Nepal

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Langtang-Gosaikund-Helambu

12 days of speed hiking just North of Kathmandu in one of the quieter trekking areas in Nepal.

Langtang: an up & back route starting in tropical rainforest the winding its way up along the raging Langtang Khola (river) to end in Kyanjin Gompa (3870m)surrounded by the snow capped peaks of the Langtang range. Highlights along the way included black and white Langur monkeys frollicking in the forest, yak cheese made in the old Swiss tradition and waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs. Silly me...I bought 1/2 kg ($3) of yummy cheese...forgetting that I would have to hike with it wafting smells from my backpack.

Gosaikund: this is the hike I would recommend if one has limited time. Easy access from Kathmandu (6 hour bus ride to Dunche)...gorgeous panoramic view of the Himalayas (Annapurnas, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang), and the holy and strikingly beautiful high altitude Gosaikund lakes (4610) full of chortens. For a fast hiker this trek can be done in 4-6 days.

Helambu: I chose this route back to Kathmandu so I wouldn't have to sit on a bus on a very rough road for 8 hours! The best part is that this section of the hike is downhill ALL the way (well, just about) after the Laurebina La (pass at 4610m). The trail meanders through small farming villages, along rice fields, through forests, and along the way there are again tremendous views of high peaks. Only 3 days of walking drops you down into Sundarijal in the Kathmandu Valley with a 40 minute bus ride to Bodanath (7km from Kathmandu).

Changes: Trekking in Nepal has changed significantly compared to when I was first here in 1989. Groups dominate the trails ("bounjour") and I was told repeatedly of "line ups" along certain sections of the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp. In particular, there was difficulty and lack of accomodation for independent trekers. I was happy to be on the route I was given that finding accomodation was never a problem and I spent much of the time hiking alone with no one else in sight.

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Photos

Sunrise
From Laurebina La (pass) at 4610m

Sunset
From above Gosainkund with view of Ganesh Himal

A Meaty Treat
Goat meat drying after Dasain 15 day festival. I am vegetarian when I travel...

Swinger 1
Swing suspended from bamboo poles set up for Dasain festival

Through the Forest
Along route up to Langtang

An Old Craft
Wooden window on house in Thulo Syabru

Rice Fields
Along the route before Chisopani

Typical Rural Homes
Along the route in Helambu

A Flock of School Children
In Helambu

Fire & Ice
Chilis & Hemp drying in the sun in Helambu

Exterior Decorating
Chisopani in Helambu

Colour Coordinated
Mulkharka in Shivapuri Park just outside of Kathmandu Valley